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Starting Problem


codeJunkie

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2011
Messages
19
City
TN
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
Hi Everyone,
I can't seem to get the starter on my 88 2.9L to stop walking when it cranks. It grinds like hell after the first start. It seems to be slipping away from the flywheel once the engine turns over since that is when I first notice the grinding.

If I get under the truck, loosen the bolts (which are snug as hell), shift the starter clockwise, and re-tighten everything, it will crank again beautifully for ONE start. Then its back to GGRRRrgrgrgrGRGRGrr.

I have replaced 5 starters, all from different stores (oreilly, advance, NAPA), new flywheel, new solenoid, new cables. The jackhole I bought the truck from put the wrong bolts in the bellhousing, which eventually stripped the threads. So I retapped them and I am using 10mm bolts, which now allow me to torque everything down to specs. The plate between the engine and bellhousing looks fine, it's not warped or anything.

Any ideas?
 
How much play is there in the starter mounting holes?
You can actually shift the starter clockwise?
 
If I loosen the bolts there is about 1/4" play in the mounting holes on the starter. No play at all in the bellhousing. (It seems like Ford made these holes larger than the bolts to give some tolerance for manufacturing error? since every starter I've looked at has the same size holes there.)

If the bolts are torqued down, however, there is no way I can move the starter, that sucker is in there tight!
 
Using different bolts? Can't remember if the 2.9L starter bolts are shoulder bolts, but that could have some bearing on the issue you're having. I do know other Ford starters I have addressed have had shoulder bolts, but been too long since I have pulled out a 2.9L starter. Not sure what I would do, maybe find some spacers that fit pretty tight in the starter holes, then ream them to fit snugly around the bolt to keep it in alignment. Not sure if that is the answer, but just food for thought.
 
I was thinking maybe you could measure the dia of the mounting holes in the starter.Then measure the mounting bolts dia. and find some thin wall pipe to make a spacers.
Better yet,if you know somebody that has a lathe,they could turn the pipe down for you.
That will keep the starter from walking on you.
But you might get lucky and find a standard size.
 
Whoops,didn't see that psychcopete basically mentioned the same thing.
 
Alright, so I took your advice Psychopete and fabbed a half-circle spacer to go in the lower bolt hole for the starter. So far, it seems to be working.
 
There are a lot of people that seem to have this problem, keep us updated! :)
 
Starter Trouble II

I have been having the exact same problem with my '88 2.9L. I couldn't figure it out. I Checked all the wiring two or three times. I also pulled the starter off and checked the teeth, but there was no problem there, and sometimes that would fix it, but not always. I was about to go back to O'Reilly and tell them they gave me a faulty starter. Then I checked this site, turned my starter clockwise, and boom! It fired right up. I guess I'll be spending this weekend fastening a couple wedges to go in the eyelets.

Thanks,

charleswednesdays
the hippie-cowboy
 
Well, my spacer rig broke off a couple of days ago. Back to grind time when I try to start it. I went ahead and put a new bellhousing on it, since I thought maybe adjusting the stripped bolt holes could have affected alignment.

Still grinds....

I've been reading that some people have had good results from replacing the 9 tooth drive with a 10 tooth from an escort around that year since it is wider and, thus, sinks down into the ring gear better.

Was wondering if anyone here has done that, and if it worked at all.
 
Problem solved!

I bought a bendix from O'Reilly for an 88 escort, popped it on the starter and it fired right up. It sounds better than it ever has, nice and quiet!

Funny thing though: The first bendix I went to pick up from the store was actually the same 9 tooth deal that I was trying to replace. Looks like someone else had the same problem and screwed the store over by putting their old unit in the box and returning it for a refund.

I guess they didn't notice the wear marks on the teeth when the guy brought it back!
 
Just wanted to post an update:

I pulled the starter last weekend just to see how everything looks...

Fantastic. Haven't had any problems out of it in the 1+ year since the fix. I still have no idea why there is so much clearance between the flywheel and starter, but I will just keep the 10-tooth gear in there and hope this saves someone in the future from doing an unnecessary flywheel replacement. :icon_thumby:
 
Just wanted to post an update:

I pulled the starter last weekend just to see how everything looks...

Fantastic. Haven't had any problems out of it in the 1+ year since the fix. I still have no idea why there is so much clearance between the flywheel and starter, but I will just keep the 10-tooth gear in there and hope this saves someone in the future from doing an unnecessary flywheel replacement. :icon_thumby:

You done good and this is odd enough to be sticky worthy. PM the moderator for this catagory and see what he/she thinks.
 

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