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Starting my 302 swap... got a few questions...


5.0

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
375
City
In the Middle
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
.

I started with a '97 2.3/manual. I'm putting in a 302/AOD from a '92 Thunderbird.

Has anyone used these headers? I read somewhere that work well and install easier than the Hedman headers http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=PTE-H8426&N=700+400002+115&autoview=sku

I think the T-bird accessory brackets may be the same as the SN-95 brackets, does anyone know for sure?

I had to notch the bracket where the A/C compressor mounts so it would clear the stud on the steering box. I'm not sure if I can still mount an A/C compressor or not. Anyone have A/C using SN-95 brackets?

There was a connector with 6 wires in it that was on the clutch master cylinder. I'm guessing I need to jump some wires in the plug for the truck to start?


The bolts in the transmission cross member bushings were frozen, but I still managed to get the 4 banger out and the 302 in with the transmissions still connected to them... all by myself :icon_hornsup:






Here's a few pics...










5-18-09001.jpg


5-18-09004.jpg


5-18-09005.jpg


5-18-09006.jpg
 
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The AOD will cause some clearance problems with Tri-Y's. That can be overcome if you don't mind doing some mods to the headers. You are correct about the front accessry drive being the same as the SN-95 Stang. The timing cover was later used on the 96-2001 Explorer/Mountaineer as well, but with a different water pump.
 
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Thanks, I'll order some Hedmans for it.

How forgiving are the Hedmans when it comes to placement of the engine? I used '95 Mustang mounts, drilled holes in the cross member and bolted the mounts directly to it. The head is about 1/2" from the firewall. I hope they fit well...
 
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The Hedman 88400's also fit the Rangers. But I'd go with Tri-Y's and make em fit. The point of contact with an AOD will be the bellhousing
 
Yeah, I like the thought of Tri-Y's the best from my limited options.

Is this "point of contact" something that can be massaged out with a hammer or is it likely that they will need cut/welded?

(I'm good with a hammer, but not so much so when welding thin metal.)

Sorry for so many questions... headers are too expensive to get the wrong ones.

.
 
Can't tell you for sure, but there has been at least one member here or over on the RPS site that's fit em with an AOD. Sometimes (almost all the time with these swaps) you've got to pay to play to get what you're looking for. I did the 89500's first, then modified a 65-66 Stang 351W shorty (right side), then tried the Hookers (bought em used), then settled with the tri-Y's on my 89. No matter what anyone tells you, it usually comes down to doing some sort of mod to fit anything with a swap. This is due to motor placement, not everyone has their engine's in the same exact location as everyone else, and different parts being used.
 
Thanks man, I'll try the Tri-Y's and see how it goes. The worst that could happen is I send them back. Thinking aloud---> (I wonder who it's easier to return to? Summit or Jegs?)(I need a few small things from Summit that Jegs doesn't have...)

If the main complaint with the 89500's is that it dumps onto the i-beam, I wonder if it would work to have my exhaust guy cut the collector off and weld an elbow of some sort on there before I put them in? :dunno::icon_confused:
 
Nope, it still won't work out. Everyone that's tried the 89500's came to the same conclusion and several have tried shortening the collectors to try and cure it. None worked to anyone's satisfaction that I recall. And I've been hanging out here since I did mine 8 years ago. Several of us tried to get Hedman to swap the Ranger headers to the 88400's, but they still insist on doing nothing to solve what ails the 89500's. I used the shortest 90* elbow Summit listed on mine and the first time I bottomed out the suspension, it put a nice fat dent into the elbow, even though I was sure it was well above any chance of contacting the I beam.
 
I was thinking of having him cut the header just under where the 4 pipes come together, then weld an elbow on there. Is this what you were talking about or something different?



hed-89500-rso_w.jpg
 
5.0
I have a 94 supercab with the similar motor that you are putting in yours. Mine is a 86 mustang roller block with 91-93 thunderbird/cougar intake drive accesories, the right side exhaust is from a 87-93 mustang the frame is trimmed about an inch or so to let the header/connector have clearance the drivers side I still am not sure what it came from but it is similar to one found on a 91 lincoln town car, but it dumps straight down like the ones on an explorer 5.0. the rad is from an explorer ,the ac condenser and lines are from a 94 mustang GT ,the air box and mass air are from a 95 cobra( or v6 3.8L for the housing) the motor mounts are from a mustang but they are reversed in location ie left is right and right is left. has the thunderbird fan but needs a shroud. has an aod trans with adapter for transfere case and the trans mount moved forward. Could not add images if you send message I can forward pics to you.
 
I was thinking of having him cut the header just under where the 4 pipes come together, then weld an elbow on there. Is this what you were talking about or something different?



hed-89500-rso_w.jpg

You can only trim it upwards so far, then you've got the starter to interfere with the elbow. The elbow has to hang down far enough to clear the starter.
 
Hi, I am from Puerto Rico and Iam doing the same thing but the 5.0 is from a 89 mustang, did you had to cut the area of the a/c on the passenger side or did it fit?Did you use the kit from summit for the engine mount?Sorry fro all the ? but you are more into the proyect than me I am in the rebuilt phase of the 302.
 

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