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Starter Problems


arcadius

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
Does anybody have any ideas on why my starter does not work. I have replaced battery, battery cable harness, ignition switch, relay. There are 3 connections on the starter negative, positive and a small stud. Do i need to hook up a positive wire to that small stud or is just a postive feed and negative connection needed. I do not have power going to my distribution fuse box either and my battery is good.
 
There should ony be 2 wires that go to your starter. The big cable (positive) goes to the stud with the 13mm or 14mm nut and the smaller one (start wire) goes to the smaller stud with the 7mm or 8mm nut. You may have the ground wire down there too and that should go to the block or one of the starter mounting. You have changed everything and you still have nothing? Did it work before you started changing everything out or is this the reason?
 
"I do not have power going to my distribution fuse box either" << THAT'S your problem.

The early 90's models used a molded harness/terminals to the starter solenoid (relay on the inner fender). That big post connection feeds power into your fuse panel. Could you have it installed on the incorrect large post of the fender solenoid? It would explain your symptom....

Here's how it goes:

One large cable from Bat+ straight to the starter
One large cable from B+ to the fender solenoid (toward the windshield)
From ^ that same aft post, a smaller wire goes to the distribution box.
Another wire goes from the remaining large post (forward post) on the fender solenoid to the smaller post on the starter.

The wire to the small stud on the starter does get 12v when the key is turned to crank and the fender solenoid energizes. Yours can never energize with no power at the distribution box.

I've not seen a Ford starter with a ground "connection". I have seen ground attached to a starter bolt. As far as I know, all the connections (studs) on the starter get 12v. One has 12v all the time with the battery connected (big stud), the other is switched by the fender relay when you turn the key to crank (smaller stud).
 
I do have it wired right and have actually had the truck running, it just won't stay consistent, the next time i go to start, i have no power to any electrical.
 

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