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Starter engages briefly, then just spins


ChrisW6ATV

Member
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
17
City
Hayward, California USA
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Hello-

I just bought my 1994 Ranger XLT 2.3L 5-speed. The previous owner sold it because it has a starting problem. When I depress the clutch pedal and turn the key, the starter will turn the engine just a little (less than one revolution), then the starter just spins. If I turn the key again, it will do the same (move the engine again a bit, then spin). The truck has a new battery, and the flywheel and starter were already replaced (apparently for the same or a similar problem) maybe six months/10,000 miles ago. If we push-start it, it runs and drives fine. That replacement starter is a rebuilt unit, not a new one. Here are the tests and observations already done:

-Tried bypassing the fender-mounted starter relay; the starter does the same thing.
-Removed and checked the starter. The teeth on the starter drive (Bendix) look OK, and there are even marks on each tooth indicating that it has fully engaged the flywheel in the past.
-Tested the starter while it was removed. The Bendix plunges outward and the starter spins as would be expected.
-Inspected the flywheel all the way around. No teeth are broken, but a few look dented/mashed a bit on the ends pointing toward the starter. The outside edges (tops) of the flywheel teeth all look good and sharp.
-Tried replacing the starter solenoid (the solenoid mounted on the starter, not the relay on the fender). It acted exactly the same.

Can anyone here tell me what the problem might be? I would just replace the entire starter, but the fact that the truck had possibly the same problem and got a "new" (rebuilt) starter not long ago makes me hesitant to buy one.

Thank you-

Chris
 
Still could be the starter. I would think it is. The drive gear could be stripped internally so once sufficient pressure builds turning the engine, it slips.
 
sounds like the bendix on the starter to me. There's a morse clutch (it's like a one way bearing) as part of the drive gear assembly (bendix). They're a really touchy part and are sometimes no good even when new.
 
Yes,it's the "bendix". In fordese the "over running clutch drive". Get a new one at your local parts place and replace it. It's not that hard, just keep track of the order and orientation of shims/washers at the nose of the starter. Try to not pull the back halve of the starter apart, it makes it easier to put back together.
Richard
 
Do you have any oil leaks? One of the most common causes of bendix failure is an oil leak at the rear main seal or oil pan. The oil gets into the bendix one way and causes failure.
 
Success!

I decided to replace the entire starter with a brand-new one, and now it starts right up. As soon as I got the new starter home, I was optimistic when I noticed that the new Bendix turned with some friction in the "loose" direction, but the one on the old starter was truly loose-basically, it can spin in one direction. I do not notice any evidence of oil leaks, so it might have been just a bad starter since it was rebuilt.

There may be another issue with this truck, too, that may be part of the cause of the starter failure. I think two of my spark plug wires are reversed. There was another discussion of a Ranger (or Mazda B) that "ate" a few starters, and the owner found two plugs incorrect. I don't remember if that discussion is here on TRS or not. I am going to verify the proper plug wiring next.

Again, thank you all for your help!
 
Yes, the front two plug wires were reversed (cylinders 1 and 3 on the driver's side). I fixed that, and it starts really quickly and runs very smoothly.
That's interesting. I'm imagining that at the right spot the engine tries to run backwards and shocks the starter:icon_confused:? Kind of like pre-ignition? Something to think about, anyway. Thanks for the update and info.:icon_thumby:
Richard
 
Richard-

I was thinking the same thing, that the reversed plugs could make the engine/flywheel act in a way that kicks the starter and makes the Bendix fail prematurely. I also wonder how long it was that way, and if it passed the California smog test for the previous owner. It did pass nicely for me the other day.
 
so i am having the same issue. except last night i went to start it and it did just like yours.
It would engage breifly then stop. I tried several times within an hour and i got the same result. then this morning i went to start it and it started right up.
I need a reply as quick as possible. i just ordered a starter and i wanna know if i still need to replace it. also can i get the firing order you guys are using to see if my cylinders are reversed as well. i just did a tune up and i used the firing order on the tech page. any help would be great!
 
I have a 94 Mazda B2300, and hsad the same problem. Replacement of the starter corrected it. Sadly, it started intermittently backfiring while cranking, and would occasionally break the bendix nosecone completely off the starter. Checked firing order, no problem, replaced TFI module, did not help, new plugs, and wires, no help. Had entire ignition system tested at Ford dealer. No problem found, no diagnosis made. Finally in desperation, after breaking 7 starters in a six month period, I replaced the only remaining ignition parts, the two coil packs. Problem corrected! I still don't really understand exactly what was happening, as both coil packs had ohmed out at correct impedance, both her at the house, and at the Ford dealer. in any case, that roblem no longer plagues me. Now It apears I a. gonug to have to replace the flywheel, due to damage from the backfiring.
I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on this, as money is tight, so I'll have to do it myself, and I don't have a transmission jack,or other shop tools.
Dalton
 

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