Stalled and won’t start

[benbristow]

Hello all,

Started my 87 2.3 the other day, made it half way down the block and it stalled. It will not start now. The starter engages, the flywheel turns, the fuel pump is strong, the plugs and wires are brand new as well as the ignition coil, injectors, fuel regulator, in-line fuel filter, battery and terminals and the starter relay. What am I missing? I have been chasing this thing around the bay for the last week and a half. I am at a complete loss. Everything has come back faulty but once replaced the truck still will not start. I don’t know where to go next. Any help would be a god send at this point. It’s my dd and right now I am spending a fortune driving my v10 Dodge Ram around.

Thanks,

Ben

 

[tomw]

Timing belt replaced in the last 60,000 miles?

If the belt loses some teeth, the cam timing will get off. Check with engine at TDC, look in behind the upper radiator hose, plastic cover for cam sprocket triangle to line up with pointer or mark on head.
tom

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 ^^^

Your timing belt probably broke
Won't hurt the engine, just need to replace it and the tensioner

Look behind the top of the timing belt cover, see if belt/cam gear are moving when cranking engine over

How-to here: http://www.therangerstation.com/how...cement-on-a-2000-and-older-ranger-4-cylinder/

 

[benbristow]

Thanks guys. I will check this in the next couple of days and let you know. If it comes down to it how hard is a timing belt swap? I have never done one before?

Thanks again,

Ben

 

[benbristow]

I read that link you shared. Thank you for that. I guess I’m looking at most of a day if it all goes well. Here’s hoping.

Ben

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've done it in the sand dunes when mine skipped a tooth for whatever reason... took it off the trailer and the thing skipped in camp still... belt was fine and ran the rest of the weekend after re timing it...

it's either that or a TFI module, that will cause no spark, but so will a broken timing belt...

 

[benbristow]

So I was able to change out the timing belt today. I went ahead and changed out the serpentine belt while I was there. I made sure all of the timing marks were lined up when I put the new belt on and gave the crank a few turns to make sure everything had the correct tension and the marks stayed lined up. All that and the motor still wont run. Any ideas? Is it possible to have the cam gear and crank gear marks lined up but be 180 degrees off? That is the only thing I can think that I could have screwed up.

Note about the old belt. It was definitely slipping. Not broken but slipping like crazy.

Thanks again,

Ben

 

[benbristow]

it's either that or a TFI module, that will cause no spark, but so will a broken timing belt...

Is the the module that plugs into the distributor? Does it make more since to change out both the distributor and module or just the module?

Ben

 

[tomw]

Remove the center wire from the distributor and stuff a spark plug into the connector. Lay the plug on grounded metal so the bare metal of the plug is in contact.
Crank the engine.
You should see sparks across the gap of the plug. If not, given you replaced the coil, you may need a TFI - thick film ignition - module. They mount to the side of the distributor, or to a remote pad on the intake, year dependent.
If you have distributor, you need a special tool to remove the two fasteners, and then can slide it downward from the distributor. There are spade connectors that it connects to that get loose in the gooey so be careful when installing a new one.
tom

 

[RonD]

Spray gasoline or Quick Start(ether) into the intake and then try to start
If it starts and dies then fuel delivery is the problem
If it doesn't start then spark or Valve timing is

Compression gauge can quickly tell you if valve timing is OK, 2.3l expect 150psi or higher

 

[benbristow]

So, I check for spark and it was a no go. Changed out the ignition control module and cranked her over. She wanted to start but backfired. I figured the timing was off from when I changed the timing belt so I took it off and cranked it over 180 degrees then put the belt back on. Same deal. Cranked and wants to start but just backfired. I checked all the plug wires to make sure the firing order was correct. Check all power connections between battery and motor, nothing was wrong. Tuesday my power steering pulley puller comes so that will probably be the next day I work on it. I am at a loss guys. Any help would be great. Thanks to all who have helped so far. I really appreciate it. My wife thanks you for saving us money too.

Ben

 

[tomw]

I am not going to figure if a 180 change is correct or not... Set the cam and crank marks as indicated. Crank on TDC, cam triangle at the pointer. THEN check where the distributor rotor is pointing. Should be at #1, period.
I'd bet your ignition timing is off, causing backfire.
If you rotate the crankshaft 360, 1 turn, the cam will turn 1/2 turn, and the distributor rotor will also turn 1/2 turn, and then point at #4.
So, set cam & crank at mark & TDC(crankshaft keyway at 12:00), set the distributor pointer(turn the third - aux shaft - sprocket as needed) to near #1 mark on the distributor cap(given your wires are in the correct spot - 1342 firing order)
Install and tension the belt. Rotate 2 turns(allows cam 1 turn) and check marks, check dist rotor.
You can 'static time' the distributor, or set timing with a timing light(better).
tom

 

[benbristow]

Thanks Tom. I will to work on this tomorrow. I set the crank and can to the appropriate marks before but I never thought of making sure the distributor was pointing at 1. I am still learning a lot about wrenching I really appreciate all of you taking the time to help us newbs out. Thanks again.

Ben

 

[benbristow]

Okay. We have made progress today. The truck starts and runs for a moment. Everything is where you said to put it Tom. I realized I forgot to mention previously that I replaced the stock injectors with larger ones, 17lb’ers. I am assuming this is why when the timing is set at 10BTC it starts but dies again. Someone told me that I can fine tune the timing with the distributor but I cannot seem to figure out how to loosen it to turn it. I am also going to get a buddy to come over with a timing light to help me.

Thanks.


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[benbristow]

Finally broke down and took the old girl into a mechanic. He said that one of the valves is sticking open and forcing fuel out which starves the engine and it dies. Now, I am not the worlds premier mechanic but wouldn't one valve on each cylinder need to stick open to keep the motor from running? If only one valve in total stayed open it would only cause the one cylinder to misfire, not all of them right?

Please help, if it needs a valve job or I need to finally drop in a bigger motor then that's fine but I want to make sure I'm not being taken to the cleaners on this.