Spring is almost here

[brokedown]

I have a complete duraspark ignition system from a '78 pinto coming this week and am looking for a 2150 non feedback carb to go with it. Once I get the other project out of the garage I will be pulling my '84 Ranger in to go through it front to back and top to bottom. Already have the buckets out of an '85 B2 EB set up with the correct brackets along with the center console, dash which is in VG condition, and all the trim. Still have a leak on the drivers side into the cab and will likely have to if not patch, replace the DS floor board due to a nice 2" hole in the sheetmetal right where the heal of my foot rests. I have driven it around the neighborhood just to see if there are any appearent issues and other than the need to drain all the fluids, do the front end 4x4 wheel bearings, and other maintenance, mechanically it seems good to go. Oh yea, I am going to have to put a clutch in it. The body is surprisingly good for an 84. Typical dents and dings, but not all that bad. Already have a new cat back exhaust, brakes, shocks, and tune up done. Lifters are adjusted eventhough when I get all the emission crap out I will most likely pull the covers and do them again.

Though I purchased it for something to work on and to use as a weekend LOWES truck, I am looking forward to having some fun with it. Will keep you posted as I start working on the beast here in a month or so as to the results of each step.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Does it have new valve guide seals in it if not now would be the time to do it. I am still dialing my 2150 in I have been trying different jets power valves and float levels to get the best mileage and performance and am finding leaner is better I just put #46 jets in and a lower I am guessing about 8.5 hg power valve with the float at 9/16 dry and will run another tank through it. It still breaks the tires loose and the upper end is still pretty good.

 

[Big Jim M]

Be careful kim

Does it have new valve guide seals in it if not now would be the time to do it. I am still dialing my 2150 in I have been trying different jets power valves and float levels to get the best mileage and performance and am finding leaner is better I just put #46 jets in and a lower I am guessing about 8.5 hg power valve with the float at 9/16 dry and will run another tank through it. It still breaks the tires loose and the upper end is still pretty good.

If you get the jets too small you will burn your valves when you are at wot and have full air flow the jets won't be able to pass enough fuel. This will make the mixture too lean and too HOT! Go back to the 50 jet that we all know works fine.
Big Jm

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you get the jets too small you will burn your valves when you are at wot and have full air flow the jets won't be able to pass enough fuel. This will make the mixture too lean and too HOT! Go back to the 50 jet that we all know works fine.
Big Jm

Thanks Jim not to steal this thread is seems kinna relevant but with the 50s in I am getting about 10 mpg and at high speed she bogs down on hills plus this engine idles best with the needles turned out about 4 turns with any carb I put on so is there anything I am missing.

 

[deathstar182]

yeah, a fuel injected engine lol

 

[Big Jim M]

Bogs are not all the same..

Thanks Jim not to steal this thread is seems kinna relevant but with the 50s in I am getting about 10 mpg and at high speed she bogs down on hills plus this engine idles best with the needles turned out about 4 turns with any carb I put on so is there anything I am missing.

When a hill is reached the skinny pedal is to the floor.. What happens here is the vac drops and the timing retards and at the same time the FLOW thru the carb slows.. If the gears are changed to a lower gear the engine revs and gets back it's carb flow and vac at the same time.
So I'm saying you could have several problems on that hill.
First and most obvious would be a carb that the cfm is too large for the engine. If this is true then approach the hill with the skinny pedal about 1/2 to 3/4 down. This will limit the cfm of the carb. If the engine seems to do better on that hill then THROW THE CARB AWAY! A too large carb is far worse than a too small carb.
Other problems could be the timing is retarded and the engine itself isn't performing as designed. A timing light and some marks on the balancer should tell you just how much timing and at what rpm you've got in that engine.
Big JIm

 

[dangerranger83]

yeah, a fuel injected engine lol

Like what I did to my 2.8 (see my build thread in my sig.)

 

[brokedown]

I will be picking up a non-feedback 2150 over the next few weeks to re-build and install. If I get a 1.21 venturi can I take the 1.08 out of one of my existing feedback carbs and swap? I am going with #49 or 50 jets as well. Most of my driving will be on the road.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

that would be the venturi booster your talking about the venturi is the size of the holes where the boosters fit and I am not sure wether or not a 1.21 will work very good from what i read you can`t get proper vacuum for the boosters to work correct. Be careful if you buy anything on ebay as the first two carbs i bought were junk I finally asked a friend of mine who owns a repair shop and he had one on the shelf i am running now and works great.

 

[brokedown]

Thanks for the heads up. I am going to find a non-feedback carb, rebuild it, and install it. I have everything else for the duraspark conversion. I am going to do the valve seals as well as it will be going in my garage for a new clutch, some body work, etc. It is going to be my weekend warrior once it is road worthy as well as something to play with that is a little old school.