Spring bracket bolt torque?

[sgtsandman]

I'm confused... you installed your spring shackles with bolts and Rivnuts?

Wrong thread! Whoops!

 

[Curious Hound]

There is a tool with a threaded stud that crimps them down tight before you run a regular fastener through them. The middle part is not threaded, just the end. So, the middle gets crushed down to swell in the hole and crimp on the blind side sort of like a pop rivet. The thread part serves as the nut after the rivnut is installed.

Like this:

I don't think that's what we're talking about here. The reference is to a type of locknut in which the threads are deformed to give it it's locking properties. Perhaps crimped was the wrong term to use. But, honestly, I don't know the exact term right now either.

 

[sgtsandman]

I don't think that's what we're talking about here. The reference is to a type of locknut in which the threads are deformed to give it it's locking properties. Perhaps crimped was the wrong term to use. But, honestly, I don't know the exact term right now either.

I was thinking about another thread that was talking about rivnuts recently and confused the two threads. I saw crimped nuts and ran with the wrong subject matter.

 

[Curious Hound]

At least tell me you guys run them down to tight before breaking out hand tools/torque wrenches?

I just can't imagine pulling those crimp type lock nuts down by hand.

After this post though... when I get back after my rear bumper and have it off... I will certainly have a look see at the hangers and hardware. to ensure they're tight.

Yes. I rarely ever remember or take the time to get out the power wrenches. I have them. But I'm just so used to doing it by hand.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Wrong thread! Whoops!

 

[sgtsandman]

At least tell me you guys run them down to tight before breaking out hand tools/torque wrenches?

I just can't imagine pulling those crimp type lock nuts down by hand.

After this post though... when I get back after my rear bumper and have it off... I will certainly have a look see at the hangers and hardware. to ensure they're tight.

On the correct subject matter, I find most locking nuts will only start by hand. You pretty much have to break out at least a wrench and a ratchet to get them down snug before you can torque them.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yes. I rarely ever remember or take the time to get out the power wrenches. I have them. But I'm just so used to doing it by hand.

My hands hurt way to bad to not make the choice to use the power tools.

 

[Uncle Gump]

On the correct subject matter, I find most locking nuts will only start by hand. You pretty much have to break out at least a wrench and a ratchet to get them down snug before you can torque them.

The set of hangers I did awhile back probably had 3/4 to1 inch of threads exposed. Zero chance I was hand cranking those bastards. I can't say I've ever seen a locking nut require a wrench to get it started either. They usually go a couple full turns before you hit the self locking feature.

 

[sgtsandman]

The set of hangers I did awhile back probably had 3/4 to1 inch of threads exposed. Zero chance I was hand cranking those bastards. I can't say I've ever seen a locking nut require a wrench to get it started either. They usually go a couple full turns before you hit the self locking feature.

You are saying the same thing I am. You can get the nut started by hand and then you need to break out the tools.

 

[Snoranger]

I don't think that's what we're talking about here. The reference is to a type of locknut in which the threads are deformed to give it it's locking properties. Perhaps crimped was the wrong term to use. But, honestly, I don't know the exact term right now either.

Stover nuts.

 

[gw33gp]

I ended up torqueing to 95 ft-lbs. The lock nut required 18-20 ft-lbs once the locking threads were engaged. Yes, I did use hand tools to snug up before getting the torque wrench out.

In Aerospace, engine lock nuts are referred to as crimped. The end of the threads are usually crimped oval but can be tri-crimped also. There are also lock nuts that are mid-crimped in a tri-crimp. Those are tough to get to get consistent run on torque values. The nut I was supplied from Ford were end tri-crimp. Yes, there are lock nuts that don't see a lot of heat with a plastic locking feature but they are just called lock nuts to differentiate them from crimp nuts

I usually use power tools for removal only. Although, I do run lug nuts on with an impact wrench once I get one thread engaged by hand. I run all the nuts on to a light impact and finish with a torque wrench.