Sport Trac Fuel Pump replacement

[rumblecloud]

This is a continuation of a post I made in the 4.0L forum concerning my 02 Sport Trac. We determined that a no start issue was the result of a faulty fuel pump. I am gearing up to drop the tank and am wondering about how to siphon the fuel - there is a little less than half a tank - about 10 gallons.
I've tried the typical hose down the filler tube but it seems there is something blocking the hose from making it into the tank.

Is there some sort of anti-siphon screen in the way or am i just not trying hard enough?

Obviously if I can't siphon, I'll just have to use the jack to lower it until I can get access to the top of the tank. Ugh!

Thanks for any help.

 

[Uncle Gump]

My Bronco II... I could get at the filler hose on the tank. Popped it off and sent the hose directly into the tank. Not sure if you can get at it though.

You could also remove the fuel supply line from the in-line filter or fuel rail. Run an appropriate size hose to your fuel can. Jump the fuel pump relay and fill your can.

 

[rumblecloud]

One of the checks we made to determine the bad pump was to jump the relay...the pump didn't power up.
Th supply line seems like the best bet though. I have to disconnect the lines anyway. The top of the tank is pretty snug an I'd be feeling my way around. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Oh... lol

My plan B wouldn't work so well now would it...

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I pull the bed.

Ymmv.

 

[rumblecloud]

Yeah...thought of that. Never done that before either, but it sure seems more pleasant than rolling around underneath a floor-jacked 2-ton vehicle getting covered in rust.
I'm not in a hurry...I'll give that some more thought. Have to see how much the bed weighs and what else is involved. Electrics and filler lines...hmmmm

 

[Uncle Gump]

Whatever you chose...

I wouldn't try to drop it alone... it's a two man job with that fuel in it.

 

[sgtsandman]

I would pull the bed as well. If the layout of the Sport Trac is the same as the Ranger, you can't drop the tank unless you remove the transmission cross member. Just spray the heck out of the bed bolts before hand and have an impact gun handy.

 

[rumblecloud]

Just from the little research I've been doing, it seems like removing the bed is a much simpler approach. Four T55 bolts on the bed, three screws on the filler, rear lighting connections and a few surprises I'm sure. The tie-down cleats are bolted to metal framework, I should be able to use them as connecting points for a chainfall and heavy-duty straps. I,m liking this much more than the other approach.

 

[rumblecloud]

Back after a month of "other things." Two bed bolts came out kinda okay (the two front ones). The back two I hadda grind off the top. I think the attachment points underneath gave up and started spinning with the bolt. Won't know exactly what those attachments look like till I remove the bed completely, which brings me to this query:

I have read that you do not really need to remove the bed, but only need to slide it backwards away from the cab about two feet or so to access the fuel pump.
True or not?

The fuel neck is disconnected, but I have not yet disconnected the taillights, ground strap, ect. Tailgate is also still in place, but no biggee there.

Any pointers or opinions? Really appreciate the help as always. Thank you in advance
Ran

 

[rumblecloud]

Major disappointment. Fuel pump cannot be removed or even accessed by removing the bed in the Sport Trac models -- at least not on mine. Might be different on the Explorer models, but not on Sport Tracs.



The fuel pump is located towards the front of the tank. I'll leave the bed off for awhile just to give me access to the top side in case I need it. I need to build a cradle of some sort or just leave it hanging till I'm done .

 

[Uncle Gump]

That's a bummer.

On the plus side... should be easy to siphon the fuel from the tank. Much easier to drop it when empty.

 

[rumblecloud]

Just got back from Tractor Supply.
Closest store with what I wanted....a decent hand pump siphon.

 

[rumblecloud]

Tank is out. Had to grind off bolt head on the front tank strap and just cut the rear strap. Both bolts were hopelessly rusted solid and there really isn't much room for maneuvering on the rear one. Three fittings on the front, a couple on the rear and out it came.

I need to get back under it and clean up the bracket attaching points and get the fuel filter out.

@RonD
I was wondering if there is any way to test the fuel pump while it is out of the vehicle. I have a four pin connector, which is I guess an indication that my Sport Trac was produced after March 5th, 2002. Earlier models have a five or seven pin connector.



Thanks for any input

 

[RonD]

4 wire connector will have 12v and ground for pump, and Gauge and ground for Sender/level

Use an OHM meter on 2 of the wires, raise float up and down, 16 to 160 ohms is what you should see
Find the 2 wire combo that have that ohm change and those are the Sender wires for the gas gauge

Other 2 wires are the pump's 12v and ground wires, polarity doesn't matter to see if motor comes on, but try it both ways