• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Splitting the T-Case from Trans in truck


SuperRob

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
135
City
Victoria BC
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Manual
What the F#(% is the trick to getting this damn thing to separate? I"ve got everything disconnected, unbolted, you name it I"ve done it. But the damn thing wont come apart, I can get it to split maybe 1/32 or so at the bottom but thats it. I've been beating on it for an hour and a half with a hammer and a 2x4. It wont come apart. I was slowly working my way around trying to loosen it off...nothing. I think its just the gasket and the shaft holding it eh but I'm jsut at my wits end here...

help please, otherwise its all going to have to come out together tomorrow, which should be interesting with nobody around to help.

Thanks
 
Are you absolutely sure that you have all five bolts out? There is an alignment pin half way up the passenger side, It could be stuck on that.
 
I think that that pin is where I must be running into problems. Got all 5 bolts out for sure though.

thanks
 
Put a little preload on the drivers side and 'wack' the other side with the hammer and 2x4. You may want to start a couple bolts so that it doesn't fall though.
 
I pulled mine with the T-case attached before I figured out it's easier separted so I know how hard it is to pull with the T-case attached, so I'll help if I can.
Does your front driveshaft bolt to the T-case or slide in? On my Bll it slides in. I couldn't get the front drive shaft unbolted from the front axel and had a heck of a time getting it to slide out of the T-case because of the rubber dust shield that goes over the front output shaft.
Other that it should just slide off. If the front drive shaft slides in, be aware that when you put it back in, there is a notch that has to be lined up with the front drive shaft splines.
 
Last edited:
I have the 1350 which just has the3 frint drive shaft slide in, I never disconnected it expecting that it would just slide out, so the first thing I'll do is disconnect that driveshaft so that I KNOW its not binding me up, then I'll try that idea with the preload....somehow, I dont have any help here so that may be hard....maybe I can find a ratchet strap or something??? If those ideas dont work...the whole damn thing is coming out one way or the other.

Thanks guys
 
Try heating the alignment pin too, that sometimes makes an amazing difference. Since the case is aluminum, and the pin is steel, the case expands far faster than the pin does.
 
Well I decided SCREW IT....and pulled the whole thing out in one chunk. Came out really easy actually once I got that cross member out and everything. The shop that ddid it last week only took off the passenger side so I had to fight the drivers side the whole way out, but eventually got it all. Ended up splitting the transfer case off with screwdrivers and wedging it apart....I know I know not the brightest idea since its aluminum, but I dont think I fu#kered it up that bad....will know more tomorrow when I get the old gasket off.

The parts shop I went to didnt have a new gasket for it (trans to T-Case) so I'm going to use RTV sealant? sound good to you guys or what?

Also, the reason the new slave went was because the input bearing siezed and chewed up the bearing retainer, which then chewed up the slave, and wrecked it.

Anyhow, thanks for all the help getting it out....now for the reverse process.
 
Glad to hear you finally got it out...check the flanges where you split the t-case off, but it's pretty thick so you should be OK. I use RTV when I out them back together. Apparently that's what whoever did it before used..
 
It was probably stuck on the alignment dowel. RTV is fine, just make sure it is cleaned very well.
 
It was stuck on the alignment dowel. unfortunatly I couldnt use the heat trick because the guy whos garage I'm doing this in only had a little propane torch, and they dont get hot enough fast enough.

I'll definitly say this though, that input bearing is totally munched. I'd put up pictures now but my camera phone isnt working properly, so I'll do it when I get home from a digital Camera. Its just destroyed the back side of that brand new slave cylinder in less than 20 km!!!!!

At least on the way home I'll have 4th gear with this Mazda trans that I'm waiting for!!! WOOT WOOT!
 
Latest Update

Well, I learned a very important lesson today. When you're having parts shipped across the country, make sure you get ALL The parts shipped.

Heres the story.

The MAzda trans was at my parents house in northern BC, but I had them bring it to Victoria with them one day when they drove down. I told my dad that I didnt need the transfer case so he unbolted it and just brought the transmission. I had only seen the transmission one time since it was brought to Victoria because I went to work the next day (2 months ago) in Alberta. Well I had the transmission shipped from Victoria to Red Deer, and the shifter shipped out of Kitimat (where mom and dad live cause he didnt bring it down at the time). Today the transmission arrives, and low and behold the first thing that I notice as its being unloaded from the Grayhound Bus is that I can see the output shaft sticking out.

SHIT.

Ends up that when dad took the transfer case off of it a few months ago he unbolted the extension housing and left it attached to the transfer case. Not realizing that it was part of the transmission or whatever the case was. Long and short of it, he dug the transfer case out today, and tomorrow or Monday (depending on when the courrier is open) will send it out to me.

As of right now, I'm going to put the transmission back inthe truck tomorrow, and bolt up the exhaust again, get the starter bolted back in, and bleed the clutch. Then I'll just have to wait on the housing to come, bolt it up, the transfer case, cross member and skid plate, driveshafts, speedo, misc. electrical connections, and I should be good to go.

I dont know what I did wrong....or who I did wrong to, but after this I think I'm going to become a much nicer person, cause the only thing I can figure is that I had bad Karma.....and I figure that by the time this ordeal is over and done with Karma dna I should be Squared up.

Thanks for listening to the drama, more to come with the arrival of parts.

Cheers all!
 
if you are putting in a mazda, you dont need to seal the flange at the t-case. the mazda uses a seal on the output shaft. make sure you take care of your shift rail plugs too, before they start leaking.
 
Cool. I was just reading the thread on the Shift Rail plugs and I'll go have a look at it directly. I'm going to be using the Mazda and the BW 1350 Transfer case. What youre saying is that in the rear extension housing of the transmission theres a seal that seals on the output shaft? NICE! Thats gonna be sweet!

Either way I'm sure it will all become very clear to me when I get all the parts!

Thanks for the tips though!
 
if you are putting in a mazda, you dont need to seal the flange at the t-case. the mazda uses a seal on the output shaft. make sure you take care of your shift rail plugs too, before they start leaking.

There is a seal there, but I would advise you to seal it anyway.

Sure enough, if you don't the seal will leak a little and you will have to pull it all back apart to do 30 seconds worth of work.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top