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Special tool OTC7816 needed to install torsion key?


Shag

Active Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
38
Transmission
Automatic
I found an inexpensive 3" suspension lift kit for a late model Ranger. This one:
http://www.fatbobsgarage.com/cart/p...rer_3_Complete_Lift_Kit_1998_2007-447-19.html
On that page they have a link to installation instructions. Step 4 mentions some special tool:
4. Using Special Tool OTC7816, compress torsion key slightly
so that you can remove the piece that the torsion keyadjusting
bolt threaded into.

Anyone know what that "special tool" is? Has anyone installed this lift kit? Do you really have to have the special tool OTC7816 or does it just make things easier? Anyone have a picture of this special tool? Where do I get one if it turns out I really need one? Thanks in advance for input on this. :icon_cheers:

Edit:
I did search this forum for OTC7816 before posting this and got zero hits. But just now I looked on google and found this:
14697.gif

That's the tool and it's about $200. There's gotta be an easier/less expensive way...?
 
Last edited:
I can't answer your question on the special tool.
But, getting 3 inches of lift out of your stock IFS by cranking the torsion bars is not reccomended, maybe 1.5 - 2 but 3 is pushing it. You will end up breaking stuff with 3 inches and you will need to get a good alignment or your tires will be toast real quick.

easier/Less expensive way?
Crank the torsion bars yourself, and get a body lift.
A 'real' lift for your ranger will be about 1500 bones.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TorsionBar.html
 
Thanks for your reply. I think you must be right. I was reading about how you could get about 2" of lift (max) by just cranking the adjusting bolt down and then I started thinking that this new torsion key is like $175 for one extra inch up front and it just doesn't seem worth it. I think I'll do the torsion bar preload thing and either a 3" body lift or possibly just trim the fenders a little bit. I did some fender trimming on my old Bronco II and it turned out really nice.
 
Ive got the clocked keys on mine, and installed them with two floor jacks, and a 36in pipe wrench. Probably not the safest method, but it worked. Used one jack to hold the key and bar in place, and used the other jack to lift the handle of the pipe wrench, twisting the tortion bar.
 
to compress the keys you need to drop the shock off and use a 2 tooth gear puller. but i wouldnt suggest the aftermarket keys its not worth the money, and all they will do it put to much stress on your front end componets. try the stock keys first and try to get your 2 inchs if you can buy stiffer bars
 

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