smokey 2.3

[super91(2.3)]

im 16 and my 91 ranger is my first vehicle. it has over 180,000 miles and has now started burning oil (blue smoke). im not sure wether its cheaper to rebuild my engine or swap another one in with lower miles from the junk yard.

 

[red93terror]

look at it like this. you rebuild it, its gonna be more expensive, but you get a warranty, its brand new essentially, and youll get 200k more out of it if you take care of it. the old addage is you get what you pay for.

 

[95RedRanger]

just add a heavier weight of oil and check regularly to add if need be. besides that you can find rangers for pretty cheap off craigslist. Id say save up your money sell it and buy another one.

 

[Mark_88]

Try that NO SMOKE oil to see if it helps...or the Lucas Oil Treatment (I used that and it helped a bit)...but don't go too thick...it's getting colder and I'm sure PA gets as cold as Canada...and cold air means oil moves slower...

 

[RangerFabWorks]

im 16 and my 91 ranger is my first vehicle. it has over 180,000 miles and has now started burning oil (blue smoke). im not sure wether its cheaper to rebuild my engine or swap another one in with lower miles from the junk yard.

its the valve seats. if the engine is running good with no noise, its only a half a day job to do them.

that would buy you time while you look for another engine. should be able to get a good running low mileage one for under 500 bucks.

 

[super91(2.3)]

where do i find NO SMOKE oil? i did try motor honey and it seems to be helping some, but minimum wage doesnt buy you much other than gas.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

where do i find NO SMOKE oil? i did try motor honey and it seems to be helping some, but minimum wage doesnt buy you much other than gas.

autozone. its in the oil treatment isle

 

[super91(2.3)]

k. im gonna buy some first thing in the morning because im due for an oil change anyways. i usually just buy napa oil by the gallon. but right now anything is worth a shot!

 

[RangerFabWorks]

k. im gonna buy some first thing in the morning because im due for an oil change anyways. i usually just buy napa oil by the gallon. but right now anything is worth a shot!

its only an 8-12 ounce bottle.

you add it to the oil as an additive.

get some quaker state 20w50 and some no smoke additive and see what happens.

this helped mine to not burn as much oil.

 

[95RedRanger]

I added some lucas with my oil change and it seemed to burn oil when I did this. After sometime I just added regular oil back to the full level which burned off and never had to add again. It seems to me through my experience that these motors dont do well with lucas oil. I'd just stick with a 20w50 oil weight if your having issues.

 

[super91(2.3)]

k. im gonna do this till i can find time to redo the top end (valve seats). when u (blackwidow67) mentioned that above and i did research and found out that could be why i have extremely low compression, i knew thats what i had to do in the end.

 

[Mark_88]

If the valve seats are the problem, no amount of oil additives are going to change anything...only if the rings or are wonky will they help...and only for a short time...in most cases...they don't rebuild the cylinder walls...

Valve seals, on the other hand, can cause oil to leak down into the compression chamber and the oil will burn in the process...leaky valve seats usually only serve to reduce compression and lower hp...because you don't get the best bang for your buck...

So...try the heavier oil and some additives if you can...if that doesn't help then you're probably looking at an overhaul...which pays for itself in the long run if everything else keeps working as it should...

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'm with Mark, valve seats wouldn't make it burn oil, that's either rings or valve seals. valve seals are a half a day job the first time and only about $20, an hour or two if you know what you are doing. to do this you will need an air compressor, a compression tester that can be hooked up to your air compressor, 8m socket for the valve cover, 13mm for the EGR tube, I don't remember what size for the throttle body, and you'll need a couple pry bars to pry the valves down to get the rockers off and to get the valve retainers off

the procedure is to get the valve cover off (take the throttle body off and the EGR tube loose from the intake first), pry the valves down until the rockers can be pulled out, take the spark plugs out, start at one end of the engine and put the compression tester in (be sure to take the schraeder valve out of the end if it has one) and hook it up to the air compressor and leave it there, then pry down on the valve spring cap until the keepers come off, you will probably have to use two pry bars to do this. If the keepers don't want to separate from the spring cap, give the spring cap a wack with a rubber hammer first, at this point you can pull the valve springs off and you will see the valve seals, pull them off with a pair of pliers, the new ones come with a little plastic installer thing, stick that over the valve stem and push the new seal on. repeat with the rest of the valves and reassemble.

 

[super91(2.3)]

i dont have to work this weekend. il c if i can make it out to napa.

 

[super91(2.3)]

are these what u were talking about? napa Item#: FPGSS72683