Slight overheat

[Bockwho]

My 2.5 took a slight overheat after I didn’t burp the coolant enough.

Now I got a slight tick gets worse when it’s warm can’t hear it under a load.

I’m thinking head any other suggestions ?


192,000 5 speed

 

[tomw]

Can you tell the location of the noise? If it seems to be from the top of the engine, it may be a lifter/support that needs to be 'worked' a bit. Sometimes they will collapse or get shorter, allowing the cam follower to tap a bit. Running them on the highway for a while can sometimes get them to loosen up and start to work properly. The supports are like a hydraulic lifter in their internal construction, trapping a 'slug' of oil inside a small cylinder that is pressurized by the oil gallery when there is no valve spring pressure(heel of the cam) to expand and take up any valve train slack. When the cam starts to push the follower, the oil gets trapped, and being incompressible, keeps the follower tight against the lobe, allowing it to push the valve open. Sometimes a speck of dirt or ??? gets in and keeps the check valve from sealing, allowing some leakage, and the tap. Flowing oil at highway rpms for a while can sometimes flush out the particles and things go back to normal.
tom

 

[Bockwho]

I’m going to run a compression leak test today.

It started after the overheat and yes it sounds like it’s from the top.

I’ll pull the valve cover too

 

[Bockwho]

So nothing definitive we used a block checker blue solution over the radiator

Pulled the valve cover nothing ovious

Going to try a set of lifters and see what happens. Then move them to the next cyl

Everything runs smooth and it has power.

 

[Mark_88]

The tick will likely go away on it's own if that was the first overheat. I wouldn't recommend replacing the lifters unless you absolutely have nothing better to do and you want to do it...which some people do...

I would suggest doing the glove test though and if that doesn't fail then you've probably got no cracks that are going to affect the engine...but keep an eye on the oil and look for that milky telltale sign of the fluids mixing.

If you are not familiar with the glove test (which I think you do if you are ready to do the lifters) then do a google search and get some laytex gloves...or a condom...and go to town...lol

 

[tomw]

If you are willing to try it, you can collapse the lifter supports, put the cam cover back on, and take it for a spin. A lever will allow you to slowly squeeze the oil out of the lifter chambers and leave them all 'empty' for a cold-start.
As you start the engine, it will clatter like there's waaaayyyyy too much lifter clearance. There is. But oil will get pumped into the lifters, and they'll slowly(a few minutes) fill with oil and take up the slack as they are supposed to do.
Emptying the lifter chamber and refilling might flow enough oil (more than normal in/out flow in use) to flush anything that was causing lifter clatter. Either way, it won't hurt, and you have an opportunity to replace the cam cover gasket. If you do, get a rubber gasket as they work and will last.(and can be re-used if needs be)
tom

 

[Bockwho]

Life of course got in the way....

Compression test as follows
1 180psi
2 140psi
3 100psi a litte oil took it up to 150
4 170psi

I have a head my buddy works at the cyl head shop 240.00
I’ll check the cyl walls while it’s off.
And take care of the timing belt it’s due (193,000)

I also want to flush the radiator it seems the drain is clogged with crud.
I’ve picked this ranger up for a song and have my 16 year old niece driving it.
It’s also turning into a nice father son (10) and niece (16)project.
I’ve found the guy i bought it from was anti preventive mtc.

The short list was cut the carpet out, brakes, deep cleaning, relamp the dash and I have door handles and a tailgate handle.

Still trying to get the heater to do its thing hense the thermostat and heater valve.

I’ll try the glove test.
And I have the new rubber gasket ��

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks for the progress info...

Looks like it could be the head gasket between #2 and #3 which is actually pretty common and easy enough to correct...

The heads on these engines are susceptible to cracks when they over heat so if you have a friend who does head work I'd suggest getting them to magnaflux test it...check for cracks.

Sounds like you have it under control otherwise...

 

[Bockwho]

Head is now off and number 3 piston is missing a little piece and the aft wall is scored.

 

[Bockwho]

Anyone know the going rate for a short block.....I think I got the I don’t really want to work on it price.

 

[Mark_88]

I bought mine 15 years ago for $150...not sure what they are going for now.

Check the parts for sale section...or see if anyone is swapping in a bigger engine and wants to part with their old one. I recently read a post by a guy that wanted to do a 5.0 swap for the 2.5...whether it was high mileage or not is another story.

You might be able to do a rebuild/hone/overbore if the scoring isn't too bad. These engines can take an overbore but I'm not sure how much...with that and a bit of head shaving you could bump the base HP up quite a bit. It may require bigger injectors but that is also available.

 

[tomw]

Locally, you can get a complete engine for ~$400-500 depending on miles & condition.

On c-list, there is an engine & trans for that price. Do not remember vintage.

If you want re-manufactured, I'd figure it to be more. I expect the labor hours to R&R the engine, replace the clutch/pp/tob included, would be over 10. Multiply by a loaded shop rate of over $70 and you have an idea. Do it yourself, and the rate is less. You might find a local independent who will quote a 'whole job', parts & labor. S/he may have a 'friend in the business' with whom they do a lot of trade, and can get a used for less than you'd pay. Figure out what you want to do, replair, replace, rebuild, used, new re-man, etc. Shop around. Rates are local. Prices are local.
If you want the best rate, find a crashed vehicle with the proper vintage, and buy all the parts from it, install yourself. You can do an R&R in a day if you prepare ahead, and are willing to start early in the day. You can rent or buy a hoist, but do NOT time your rental to force speed. Better to pay an extra days rent if needed. I don't particularly like the quality of the hoists I have rented, so I bought one which I still have.
You can also ' get a quote' on a web site. Search. Local shops that are linked(may be a fee type thing) up will/may give bids for the job. C-list also lists mechs who will do work out of their garage, etc. Yours is apart, so not likely good for that, but they may be mobile, or have access to a tow truck.
tom

 

[Bockwho]

Lots of good input guys thanks.

I found a guy who runs a machine shop in his barn to support his drag race habit.

I have access to all the stuff and I worked in a shop for a few years so I went ahead and performed the removal and will drop the trans when the block comes back and instal as a assy after the trans is cleaned up.

Dropped the block and my reman head and a bunch of gaskets at his place last week. Courious to see the outcome of it makes it or not. He was quite certain he would have to cut it at ten min. And agreed to “short block it”. However in the meantime my 16 year old trashed my Jetta taking a turn to fast.

So now my drive way is looking more like a junk yard.... luckily I’m out of sight from the road.

 

[Mark_88]

Sounds like progress...

I know how the bodies and parts can pile up quickly when piecing something together...I managed to loose a bunch of pictures showing my "accumulations" but the memory still haunts me...