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Sliders


out cast

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
427
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Manual
I've been quite busy lately armoring my truck up. So without further ado... Here are the beginning of my sliders.

Mock up with fenders hanging still.
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Passenger side on and ready to be end capped, grinded.

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Passenger rear mount, Not the prettiest weld but talk about penetration... there are burn marks on the inside of the frame...

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Looking down the side, gonna be useful for door protection, and steps...

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Floppy Fender fix, welded in a 1 1/2"x1" T bracket to the body with a nut welded to it.

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These hold me (140lbs) and my father in law (260lbs) standing on it and also jumping on it.
 
how are they supported at the body under the doors?
 
One word of advice, don't make your plates that are welded to the frame squares, they are better to be diamond shapes with rounded corners. You never want to bring a weld to a sharp point on a frame.

Personally I would have bolted them to the frame.
 
we contemplated it but welding stick is cheaper than bolts when you have the stick and not the bolts. especially on unemployment.

hi lift test is coming, when I get a chance to get my hi lift rebuilt... until then I may be able get a 3 ton jack test... lol
 
Another thing is you really want to weld the whole plate. It appears you didnt weld the top edge.
 
are you doing a stand off or just leaving the square tube? looks to me on the trails a tree will still catch the doors when you pivot around a tree
 
We couldn't get to the top of the plate so we are contemplating on cutting some of the top off to weld it.

I plan on doing rails later. Another "when i get around to it" project.
 
if you dont have excess to a bender get some 1" or 1.25 waiter pipe and some weld 90's...tube would look good sticking off of them a few inches

and i 3rd the figuring out how to weld the top of the plate
 
if you dont have excess to a bender get some 1" or 1.25 waiter pipe and some weld 90's...tube would look good sticking off of them a few inches

and i 3rd the figuring out how to weld the top of the plate


Donot follow these instructions!. Never use cast water pipe for anything but to carry water in. Never Mickey Mouse anything on your rig. Im still wondering how you have supported the rail under the door? without a solid mount point there they will just fold up into the doors when you put pressure on them
 
What are you talking about 'supported under the doors'? How about the two supports running from the slider that are WELDED TO THE FRAME. Granted, I would've integrated some triangulation into the support that runs to the frame (as I did with mine), but I'd seen guys use just a single tube. Whether it will fold up or not depends on the strength of the material used (its resistance to bending loads).
 
What are you talking about 'supported under the doors'? How about the two supports running from the slider that are WELDED TO THE FRAME. Granted, I would've integrated some triangulation into the support that runs to the frame (as I did with mine), but I'd seen guys use just a single tube. Whether it will fold up or not depends on the strength of the material used (its resistance to bending loads).
That is pretty half azzed, I have never built a set that did not support at the rockers also. usually full length. The last set I had no supports to the frame at all. I just cut out the rockers and welded in 1/4" wall 2" x 4" steel:icon_welder:

snow%20047.jpg


Then built a wrap around rear bumper and replaced the floor int he back with 3/16" steel and welded the 1 1/2" x 3" 1/4" wall to that. It works very well.

snow%20048.jpg
 
yeeeah. That design would fail on any vehicle other than an 'suv'. I'm not gonna rely on the paper thin sheet metal that is my floor/rocker to support the entire weight of my truck. Mine don't touch my rockers at all. Here's a shitty cell pic lifting from the 'wing' of mine. The passenger side rear tire was just off the ground. Negligible deflection.

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