Show me your off-road Ranger, tell me what makes it a good off-roader, and what you'd do different today.

[Jim Oaks]

Like the tile says, show me your off-road Ranger, what makes it a great off-roader, and what's you'd do different if you rebuilt it.

I'll go first...

This is my 1996 Ford Ranger. It has a 4.0L OHV V6, and automatic transmission, and electronic shift transfer case.

It has a Skyjacker 6-Inch Class II suspension lift that includes extended radius arms and rear leaf springs. The 28-spline 8.8-inch rear axle was replaced with a 31-spline 8.8-inch rear axle that received a Detroit Locker and 4.56 gears. It's also been supported by an axle truss, and the stock diff cover was replaced with a heavy-duty diff cover made out of 1/4" steel plate. The front Dana 35 also received a Detroit Locker and 4.56 gears. The tires are Cooper Discoverer STT PRO's.

It has a heavy-duty front bumper designed for maximum approach angle and has a Smittybilt 9.5K winch. The bed cage is made from .120 wall DOM 1-1/2 inch tubing and is home to an LED light bar and tire carrier.

The Ranger has both a CB and GMRS radio to communicate with the group, but anymore we always use GMRS.

What I Like:

It's basically made up of stock components. No Dana 44's or Dana 60's. It just looks like a lifted Ford Ranger and people underestimate its abilities, so it's fun to conquer difficult obstacles and surprise people. It's also fun to do obstacles that I see other off-roaders struggle with. There's never been a time that this truck wasn't able to go anywhere I pointed it.

What I'd Do Differently:

Building it today, I'd rather have a selectable locker like an air lock or electric locker instead of a full-time locker. A locked axle makes it difficult to do sharp turns on a trail. It also puts more stress on the steering. Locked axles can also push the truck sideways when you're on a side slope with a loose surface. On slick surfaces, the locked rear axle can cause the rear end to slide sideways, and the locked rear tends to want to push the truck straight even though you're turning which can get interesting on slick highway ramps.

I'd like to run 35-inch tires, so I wish I had 4.88's or 5.13's to compensate.

The manual hubs sold today are stronger than the originals. I can't even remember when the last time was that I blew a hub. But I have thought about a Dana 44 knuckle and hub swap to run 35's. But that's more for the wheel bearing spacing than the hubs.

I'd get rid of the bed cage to have more use of my bed, although there were a couple of times, I thought I was going to roll the truck over onto it.

You're turn. Let's see your Ranger, how you built it, why you think it's a good off-roader, and what if anything you'd do differently.

 

[JonH]

Like the tile says, show me your off-road Ranger, what makes it a great off-roader, and what's you'd do different if you rebuilt it.

I'll go first...

This is my 1996 Ford Ranger. It has a 4.0L OHV V6, and automatic transmission, and electronic shift transfer case.

It has a Skyjacker 6-Inch Class II suspension lift that includes extended radius arms and rear leaf springs. The 28-spline 8.8-inch rear axle was replaced with a 31-spline 8.8-inch rear axle that received a Detroit Locker and 4.56 gears. It's also been supported by an axle truss, and the stock diff cover was replaced with a heavy-duty diff cover made out of 1/4" steel plate. The front Dana 35 also received a Detroit Locker and 4.56 gears. The tires are Cooper Discoverer STT PRO's.

It has a heavy-duty front bumper designed for maximum approach angle and has a Smittybilt 9.5K winch. The bed cage is made from .120 wall DOM 1-1/2 inch tubing and is home to an LED light bar and tire carrier.

The Ranger has both a CB and GMRS radio to communicate with the group, but anymore we always use GMRS.

What I Like:

It's basically made up of stock components. No Dana 44's or Dana 60's. It just looks like a lifted Ford Ranger and people underestimate its abilities, so it's fun to conquer difficult obstacles and surprise people. It's also fun to do obstacles that I see other off-roaders struggle with. There's never been a time that this truck wasn't able to go anywhere I pointed it.

What I'd Do Differently:

Building it today, I'd rather have a selectable locker like an air lock or electric locker instead of a full-time locker. A locked axle makes it difficult to do sharp turns on a trail. It also puts more stress on the steering. Locked axles can also push the truck sideways when you're on a side slope with a loose surface. On slick surfaces, the locked rear axle can cause the rear end to slide sideways, and the locked rear tends to want to push the truck straight even though you're turning which can get interesting on slick highway ramps.

I'd like to run 35-inch tires, so I wish I had 4.88's or 5.13's to compensate.

The manual hubs sold today are stronger than the originals. I can't even remember when the last time was that I blew a hub. But I have thought about a Dana 44 knuckle and hub swap to run 35's. But that's more for the wheel bearing spacing than the hubs.

I'd get rid of the bed cage to have more use of my bed, although there were a couple of times, I thought I was going to roll the truck over onto it.

You're turn. Let's see your Ranger, how you built it, why you think it's a good off-roader, and what if anything you'd do differently.

93 4.0 5 speed 1350/1354 doubler 4.88 Dana44 Front with Spartan locker 4.86 9 inch rear with Detroit Locker. Pitbull Rocker 41.5 x 13.5 R 17 on dirty life racing bead locks. Reid racing high steer knuckles and DOM steering. 05 Jeep liberty power steering pump.
Front suspension is from a jeep cherokee, 6 inch lift spring with progressive coils, rear is basically stock Ford Explorer springs with 2 add a leafs and hangers lowered to bottom of the frame rail. 86 B2 fuel tank still in doner frame in the bed. Could be other stuff im forgetting.

Stuff I like. Fun to drive. Built with angle geometry so it'll run 70 mph down the highway smooth as can be. It just crawls over everything. 12 trail runs in 4 differentoffroad parks and I don'ttake the bypassess. Mud, rocks, snow, hills, uneven terrain, technical Very capable. With the doubler in 4 lowlow has top speed of 18 mph in 5th gear. Cage is completely custom using both roller & bender. I wired winch hook up for both front & rear and 12 inch LED light bars just under the headlights is clean

If I started over again would probably start with a 5.0 and dana 60 converted to 70, I still plan on running coil overs and air shocks but would have started that way too. Its not lacking any power because the doubler.

Overall very happy with it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

1985 Ranger:
1987 Crown Vic 302
    Mustang HO cam
    Edelbrock 1403 4bbl
    Wiand Stealth intake
    Hedman 88400 headers
    Dual snorkel intake inspired by 1985 Mustang GT
 2004 M5ODR2 transmission
    Chrome FX4 Level II shift lever
 1977 NP-205
    Homebrew twin stick conversion
1995 Dana 35 TTB 3.73 front axle
    Warn hubs
    C clip eliminated
 1996 Explorer 8.8 3.73 TL
    Custom fit 1993 Ranger rear sway bar
      4.0 Supercab Ranger front springs
      Explorer rear springs (came with rear axle)
          Lift block eliminated, Belltech shackles
          Shelby GT-500 diff cover
      Front grille guard/winch mount inspired by the period Ford accessory
           Smittybilt 9500lb winch w/synthetic rope
           KC Daylighter lights
      Custom rear bumper
            Spare tire carrier
            Fuel tank/traction board mount
            Integrated rear slide in camper tie downs
      Rock sliders for a LWB Toyota pickup
            Integrated tie downs for slide in camper
      Interior is pretty customized
            Retrosound Laguna stereo
            Retrofited 86/88 tach cluster
            Under dash gauges with custom switch panel
            Custom cup holder
            Chevy Tahoe compass/thermometer rear view mirror
            Cobra Classic CB Radio
            Hidden GMRS radio
            Garmin Overlander GPS mounted to ash tray wired to come on with the key
  Added factory cruise control
  Added factory air conditioning
31x10.5R15 General Grabber ATX tires
No name (possibly Ultra) sawblade style alloy wheels

What I like:
Truck looks like a stock truck, it also drives beautifully on the highway while getting pretty good mileage. The thing is a bit of a sleeper, it isn't super quick by today's standards but it is pretty spry for a old Ranger. It also isn't super tall but IMO hits above its weight offroad as well. Ground clearance and maneuverability is pretty good as is articulation.

It is also so versatile. I have a platform so two can easily camp in the back of it under the topper, I also have a slide in camper for it which it handles very well and if that isn't enough I also have a pop camper that it tows great.

What I would like to change:

1. Finish the body, it needs the cab corners redone, bed and front clip replaced and painted. I have everything but the time and courage to do it.
2. Gearing mismatch. First gear could be lower. Overdrive could be higher. At 60 it is turning about 2200rpm, its really churning at 70. Kind of a tough nut to crack. Regear axles and add doubler? Or regear axles and gear venders OD? Or regear and ZF5? Or AOD? I kinda keep backing up three times and punting on that one lol. Really it is "good enough" as it is.
3. Carb runs great, it really does. I do wish I would have converted to OE EFI back when parts were laying everywhere.
4. Rear tire swingout, I hadn't yet picked up my camper yet when I built it. I had the previous owner of the camper (Uncle Gump) measure it and I built my tire swingout to fit with the camper in the truck. Neither of us thought about the door frame of the camper sticking out like an inch and a half from the actual camper body... so the carrier won't fit with the camper. My son wants a tire carrier for his '91 so I will likely make a new one to fit mine with the camper and place this one on his bumper so it would fit the camper in his truck as well.

 

[Jim Oaks]

93 4.0 5 speed 1350/1354 doubler 4.88 Dana44 Front with Spartan locker 4.86 9 inch rear with Detroit Locker. Pitbull Rocker 41.5 x 13.5 R 17 on dirty life racing bead locks. Reid racing high steer knuckles and DOM steering. 05 Jeep liberty power steering pump.
Front suspension is from a jeep cherokee, 6 inch lift spring with progressive coils, rear is basically stock Ford Explorer springs with 2 add a leafs and hangers lowered to bottom of the frame rail. 86 B2 fuel tank still in doner frame in the bed. Could be other stuff im forgetting.

Stuff I like. Fun to drive. Built with angle geometry so it'll run 70 mph down the highway smooth as can be. It just crawls over everything. 12 trail runs in 4 differentoffroad parks and I don'ttake the bypassess. Mud, rocks, snow, hills, uneven terrain, technical Very capable. With the doubler in 4 lowlow has top speed of 18 mph in 5th gear. Cage is completely custom using both roller & bender. I wired winch hook up for both front & rear and 12 inch LED light bars just under the headlights is clean

If I started over again would probably start with a 5.0 and dana 60 converted to 70, I still plan on running coil overs and air shocks but would have started that way too. Its not lacking any power because the doubler.

Overall very happy with it.

Damn, that thing is a beast!!

 

[Shran]

Here's my '86 Ranger... 302 swapped, NP435 transmission, twin sticked 205 t-case, narrowed high pinion Dana 44 front w/ RCV shafts & Yukon hubs, Lock-rite locker. 8.8 disc brake rear, limited slip. 4.10 gears. 35" Goodyear MTR's. Roughly 6" lift. I built the flatbed, bumpers, skid plates, etc. Build thread here

What I like: It's a good running, reliable wheeler that you can still drive. Having a heater, doors that close, glass intact, etc is nice for a driver. I have upgraded enough things that it's kind of hard to hurt it on the trails I run but I am well aware of its limitations so I don't run trails that I know are past its ability.

This thing is also incredibly useful as a work truck. I am constantly using it for dragging stuff around, pulling bushes out, etc. I will be retiring it from "crawler" duty once I get the 2 door Explorer build done and will be taking the RCVs & Yukon hubs out of this to put in that. I'm not getting rid of it though - I may actually redo the flatbed a bit so that it's a bit more useful for work purposes.

What I would do differently: I actually am doing it differently. I have a 1994 Explorer Sport (build thread here) that is taking over crawler duty. I really like the Ranger and honestly just don't want to destroy the body more than I already have. Here's what I consider to be weak points on the Ranger build:

• Lockers - I like the front locker/rear limited slip setup but it is not ideal for hard trails. New rig has a spool in the rear and a limited slip in the front - I will probably put a selectable in the front and leave the spool.
• Front suspension - there is nothing wrong with coil springs but I am ruining C bushings quite often and I really hate the process to replace them. New rig has a 3 link with heims and johnny joints... no more bushings... just bigger & sturdier overall. Will also have coilovers instead of coil springs.
• I need more armor. Skid plates, etc. The Ranger is lacking in that somewhat.
• Rear driveshaft - it's nearly a mile long on the Ranger and gets hung up on everything. It's 1/4 wall pipe so it's not like it'll break... but it's annoying... the shorter wheelbase on the Explorer will solve that
• Gears & manual transmission - 4.10's, 35's and an NP435 is a good setup. Not great for a crawler, but good. It really needs substantially deeper gears to work better. Running the clutch through hard obstacles on the trail is a bit frustrating and nerve wracking. Sometimes I need to go SLOW and it's just not possible. Deeper gears will make this truck suck on the highway. So the new rig has 5.38 gears and an automatic - maybe a Behemoth shorty box with a 205 at some point too. I am fine with it being a trailer queen.
• The body on the Explorer is not nice, it's fairly rusty and I just don't really care if it gets crushed in. Don't care about having intact glass either.
• Lastly - the V8 swap is not ideal. Don't get me wrong, I love it, it's fun to drive, and it sounds cool. But certain things like its ability to overheat, the tight clearances on some stuff, janky stuff that I did and haven't fixed yet, etc just make my stress level way higher than it should be. 23 year old me did things differently than 39 year old me does now. There are ways to build a bulletproof engine swapped offroad rig but starting with one that has a really good stock drivetrain to begin with is sometimes better... and that's why I'm using a 4.0 powered rig... and also why I sometimes wish I had kept the 2.9 in the Ranger.

 

[RaceRanger97]

1989 Ranger
-1992 Mustang H.O 5.0 V8 Swap (CA Smog Legal)
-AOD Automatic
-Atlas 4 Speed Transfer Case
-Air Conditioning and Heater Still
-40x12.5x17 BFG Race Tires

Front axle:
-Custom MitchMade Inc. 3.5" housing with plate truss and AR500 steel bash plate utilizing 02 F-350 D60 Inner C's and knuckles.
-Knuckles have Artech high steer kit welded on and use factory F-350 brakes and unit bearings that have been machines to fit 35 spline outer shafts with conversion Warn locking hubs
-Axles are chromoly 35 spline with 1480 joints
-3rd member is a Gearworks load bolt High Pinion case and pinion support with 10" REM polished 5.83s and Detroit Locker built by Axle Pros

Front Suspension:
-Custom 3 link designed by MithMade Inc.
-Links are 2" .250" wall tubing with 1-1/4" heim joints
-Panhard and steering linkage is 1.5" .250" tubing with 7/8 heims.
-Currently uses factory coil buckets with 5.5" "Crawler Springs" From Wild Horses for an Early Bronco

Rear Axle:
-Custom MitchMade 3.5" trussed housing with AR500 bash plate utilizing Trail Gear unit bearing pockets.
-Hubs are 02 F-350 unit bearings machined for 35 spline and use Trail Gear drive slugs
-Uses F-350 Rear Brakes
-3rd member is a Strange 3.25 case and pinion support with 35 spline Detroit locker and 5.83s built by Axle Pros

Rear Suspension:
-Deaver 64" Leaf springs with custom mounts and shackles
-2.5" King double bypass shocks with custom bed cage

Body:
-Custom front and rear tubular bumpers
-Fiberglass 4" wide front and rear fenders
-LED Rock lights, bumper and hood lights

What I Like:
Super capable crawler that I can still drive around town in comfort.

What I would / will do different:
I need to build a 2-piece rear drive shaft to keep it tucked up higher. Also could use more HP

 

[Jim Oaks]

What I would / will do different:
I need to build a 2-piece rear drive shaft to keep it tucked up higher. Also could use more HP

I remember when people were all about replacing a 2-piece driveshaft with a 1-piece. Interesting how things change over time. I've seen people mention this before about using a 2-piece shaft for better clearance. Something for people to think about.