should I try remote mounted module?

[jeana]

I've been struggling to get an 86 Ranger w/ 2.9 started for a few weeks now. The codes 14, 18 and 33 were stored in the computer. I've tried a new module, a coil and installed a new Hall-effect, and I still have no spark. I feel like the module doesn't make good contact with the distributor surface it is supposed to ground on. Would it be worthwhile to try a remote-mounted module? My understanding is that the vehicle should still start when it's cold, if that is the issue. Anyone else out there have any idea?

 

[IMenriched]

if you want remote mount this by all means give it a whirl.

this from another thread

Here is a good read on the TFI problem.

This is the Tech Info "LINK" that I found hear on The Ranger Station.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...remote_tfi.htm

Really tested the truck this evening with absolutely no power loss after heat up.

it might be some poor wiring somewhere in the harness and the remote mounting won't be helping ....or by doing so you eliminate the issue

there is a ground wire and rear of the engine that leads to the TFI harness...make sure it is good. typically on the passenger side going towards the head or the block.

 

[dirtsquirt]

Just a little tip that my help you out with your remote TFI mounting,,, I used a heat sink for a Computer CPU for my remote mount, was easy to find the heat sink. And i have the fan attached for those real hot days.

 

[Nez]

On my 1990 TFI [and I think they are all the same], I discovered that the TFI itself is not grounded at all to the Distributer. The metal backing plate is only attached to the plastic housing of the TFI.

Have you inspected and [tested] all the wires for shorts?

I would also check the FUSES first.

Nez

 

[jeana]

I've checked fuses and grounds. I've checked for continuity in all the wires that seem relevent to eliminate spark. They all seem to check out ok. I've taken out the computer and found no water damage. Still I have no spark. I've wiggled the harness while cranking with a spark tester on the coil to see if I can get anything- and no dice. Am I looking at a bad computer? Maybe the TFI remote module would be a waste of time. How can I really check for a bad computer without a breakout box?

Nez- are you saying that bolting the TFI module to the distributor isn't part of what grounds the thing? Anyway I've held the thing down on there while someone else cranks the engine, and it doesn't change anything.

 

[jeana]

on second inspection of the ECA, I do see a sticker on it has clearly been wet, and I see some green around a few wires of the ECA connector. Is this enough to shut down spark? I want to check continuity from the module to the ECA. I get good continuity from the blue wire to terminal #56, but nothing from the yellow wire. My understanding is that is should be terminal #36 at the ECA connector. Is it possible I have a bad harness and ECA?

 

[jeana]

Ok, me again. I can't find a bad wire on this harness. Grounds and continuity all check out good. I've tried wiggling the harness while someone else cranks and no changes occur. There has got to be a bad part in there somewhere. I've ohmed out the module and the coil as well as tried replacing those parts. It's got to be a bad ECA, but how can I know for sure?

 

[Nez]

on second inspection of the ECA, I do see a sticker on it has clearly been wet, and I see some green around a few wires of the ECA connector. Is this enough to shut down spark? I want to check continuity from the module to the ECA. I get good continuity from the blue wire to terminal #56, but nothing from the yellow wire. My understanding is that is should be terminal #36 at the ECA connector. Is it possible I have a bad harness and ECA?

Call AdvanceAuto or an Auto store of that caliber, they should be able to test your computer.

 

[Nez]

I've checked fuses and grounds. I've checked for continuity in all the wires that seem relevent to eliminate spark. They all seem to check out ok. I've taken out the computer and found no water damage. Still I have no spark. I've wiggled the harness while cranking with a spark tester on the coil to see if I can get anything- and no dice. Am I looking at a bad computer? Maybe the TFI remote module would be a waste of time. How can I really check for a bad computer without a breakout box?

Nez- are you saying that bolting the TFI module to the distributor isn't part of what grounds the thing? Anyway I've held the thing down on there while someone else cranks the engine, and it doesn't change anything.

Here is a good link on the TFI module so that you can trace the ground wire and test everything. I do not believe that the Remote Mounting is the answer.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html

I gutted an old TFI to rewire the three prong Stator and discovered that the metal backing plate is only a cover and is not in any way grounding the module.
Keep at it! Nez

 

[dirtsquirt]

Well when i did the remote mount of my TFI i had no spark untill i ran a ground from the TFI to the firewall,

I would assume it grounded to the Distributer thru the mounting bolts.

 

[old409]

Jeana,

I'm going through the same exact thing with my 89, 2.9. I did everything I could find on the site and found my TFI was bad when I had it checked at Auto Zone. I also had a cheap little TFI tester I got off ebay that said the TFI was bad. I got a new TFI and was all ready to go for a ride but still no spark.

I swapped a spare dist., swapped the coil, did all the grounds over,checked wires soldering the wire to the connecters and using star washers on the connections to make sure I got a good connection. All that's left is the computer and I plan on getting one later this week. I'll let you know if and when I find what the problem is.

 

[old409]

I went back over my wiring today and on the TFI plug, using the troubleshooting sheet from the tech section, I found I have no ground at pin 6 , the black/ orange wire on the plug. I traced the wire the whole way back into the eec module. The wire isn't broken, it has continuity right back to the eec.

I'm not sure where this get its ground.It read 3.5K ohms. Maybe it grounds through the eec module and if the eec module is defective, you lose ground or get enough resistance to screw the truck up. As I said before, I checked and re-did every ground connection I could find. I have the Haynes, the Chiltons and the Ford factory manuals and none of them have a good schematic. They're all more like block diagrams than schematics.

Next move is a rebuilt eec module.