should I buy this ranger? (Option 5)

[YT-1300]

This one is for sale nearby:
Asking price: $7500
61,745 miles
2.5L 4cyl, 5-speed manual
2001 Ranger XL (112" wheelbase)

Ad text:

Hello, I’m selling my 2001 Ford Ranger truck. It’s a 2.5L 4 cylinder with manual 5 speed transmission.
I am the second owner of this truck. It’s in great working condition with LOW mileage at 61,745. I used this truck to load my motorcycle and for the last couple years I haven’t been using it. Now I only drive it once a week to make sure it’s not just sitting. No repairs needed. Everything works. No leaks. No accidents
Super clean truck with maintenance records. 2 keys.
2001 XL REGULAR CAB 4X2
XL 112" WHEELBASE
2.5L EFI I-4 ENGINE
5-SPD MAN O/D TRANSMISSION



I emailed the seller and may go look at it this weekend.

MY THOUGHTS
Bluebook is $5200-$7300 in "good" condition and $5800-$8200 in "excellent" condition. Prices here in SoCal are running about the asking price of this one.

I have no way of knowing if the mileage is truly only 61K. Could it be 1.06 million? That would be around 50K per year which is really high, even for LA. But, 61K a year is about 3,000 miles per year, which seems really low. Then again, this could have sat for awhile or be driven by a little old man to church on Sundays.

I googled the VIN and nothing came up.

I have a checklist I made that I can take with me and I borrowed a code reader. Anything else I should do to prepare to look at this?

Any other thoughts and comments?

Thanks!

 

[Ranger850]

Seems like a solid truck. Go check it out and offer $6K. It may well be worth the asking price, but it never hurts to barter a little.

 

[superj]

Yup. I agree

 

[Uncle Gump]

I think if it looks like it was an easy 61k... it's worth paying up a bit. At least the way things are right now.

 

[Jazzer]

If I could be certain the mileage was correct, I wouldn’t feel bad offering 7k for that truck, provided there are no red flags when you look it over.

Good luck with it, you have to hop right on good deals nowadays.

One of the things to check is the wear on the clutch and brake pedals, shouldn’t be to much at that mileage.

-Jazzer

 

[55trucker]

That puppy is the most basic of basic, aside the dent in the tailgate, the right tail lamp damage & the weather worn door belt line moldings it's not bad looking.
Will you be happy with a plain jane?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Will you be happy with a plain jane?

I only speak for myself... but that fact is appealing. Much less stuff to go wrong.

 

[YT-1300]

That puppy is the most basic of basic, aside the dent in the tailgate, the right tail lamp damage & the weather worn door belt line moldings it's not bad looking.
Will you be happy with a plain jane?

This is going to be used by my 16-year old son to drive around the suburbs to school and practice. It has AC and a radio and will hold all his gear. Simple is fine; less to go wrong.

I think every Ranger I've looked at has worn door belt molding (lol).

 

[YT-1300]

If I could be certain the mileage was correct, I wouldn’t feel bad offering 7k for that truck, provided there are no red flags when you look it over.

Good luck with it, you have to hop right on good deals nowadays.

One of the things to check is the wear on the clutch and brake pedals, shouldn’t be to much at that mileage.

-Jazzer

Thanks!

How would I be certain the mileage is correct?

How would I check the clutch? Should it feel tight and engage right away?

I usually get the truck going about 25 on an empty stretch, then slam on the brakes to see what happens.

 

[dvdswan]

Looks pretty solid. It did have a camper shell on it, evidence around the back window. A few dinks and small dents on tailgate and rear pass side. Pass. front corner looks odd in the picture. It may just be the angle but I would take a look in that area.

I agree with @Ranger850 said. Offer 6k and go from there, maybe even start at 55. I bet you get it for 65 or 66.

 

[Jazzer]

There’s no sure way to tell the mileage, it’s a combination of a lot of little things. General amount of normal corrosion on frame and accessories, condition of all the rubber bushings on the control arms and cab mounts, things like that. Check brake lines for corrosion, too.

Check the color and smell of the oil, look at the exhaust on startup and after, while running, for blue smoke which is oil burning.

It’s best if the seller agrees to let you have a mechanic check it over ( a compression check would be very helpful).

-Jazzer

 

[55trucker]

Thanks!

How would I be certain the mileage is correct?

How would I check the clutch? Should it feel tight and engage right away?

I usually get the truck going about 25 on an empty stretch, then slam on the brakes to see what happens.

Get a vehicle history report on the truck.

A hydraulic clutch should be disenaged when the pedal is halfway down its stroke, at that point all of the lipe fingers have moved enough to release the hold on the clutch disc.

Best way to check the brakes is to inspect all of the parts.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

I'd buy that truck if I was looking.
It looks to be in great shape!

 

[YT-1300]

It sold for $7000. The seller told me the previous owner was a "car guy" and had 4 vehicles, so this one wasn't driven much. He told me he is selling it because he has started a family and has sold his motorcycles along with this truck, which he used to haul them to the track.
The search continues...

 

[rubydist]

Jeff, in this market if you find a good vehicle you have to jump on it - there will not be time to wait for us to give opinions on if its the right one. You have been looking for a while, and you know what to look for now, so when you find one that looks like a good choice and meets your needs, just grab it before it gets away, because there are way more people looking than there are decent $7k vehicles.