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shopping for shoes on my 88


baxtej44

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2009
Messages
1,794
City
Omaha, Nebraska
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
figure it's about time to get some new tires...

i have 235/75/15 on right now, i believe.


don't tow really, use the bed for some heavy stuff every once and a while, don't offroad.... so really, just street driving.

so i think sticking with the same tire size would be fine.



just wondering about what i should buy! (or if i should change size, let me know why, etc)
 
i'd think about LT (c-rated) tires since you do have some weight in the back occasionally. you get a fair amount of snow and ice in the winter there also. i'd go with a tire that has the snowflake symbol for those conditions. and the tire size you have now is very close to 30/9.50x15. probably less than a half inch difference in most cases. that will give you a few more options. just my $.02.
 
Yeah like he said get the LT tire not the passenger tire. Because its a C load even if you don't need it for the weight bearing capacities a load C tire has better puncture resistance due to the fact it has more plys or tougher plys and generally a deeper and heavier tread.

Also yeah winter rated tires are way better. Just to name a few (and infact these have very similar patterns) The Bridgestone Dueler A/T RevoII's and Wildcountry XTX's (made by Dean Tire which is a cooper sub company), The new cooper ATR's and I believe Yokohoma has a pretty good A/T out now.
 
I just bought Definity Dakota's for my truck. They're made by (or owned?) by Cooper, So I'm cool with that...
They're LT A/T Tires, 30x9.50R15.
I found the price to be pretty good for an A/T tire. From what I understand, they're pretty good as long as you aren't doing anything too extreme with them.
 
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i'd think about LT (c-rated) tires since you do have some weight in the back occasionally. you get a fair amount of snow and ice in the winter there also. i'd go with a tire that has the snowflake symbol for those conditions. and the tire size you have now is very close to 30/9.50x15. probably less than a half inch difference in most cases. that will give you a few more options. just my $.02.

will the 9.5 fit my current rims? and will i fit 30 without any lift or fender trimming? i don't want any rubbing obviously. so you think i should get a winter tire for all year?

Yeah like he said get the LT tire not the passenger tire. Because its a C load even if you don't need it for the weight bearing capacities a load C tire has better puncture resistance due to the fact it has more plys or tougher plys and generally a deeper and heavier tread.

Also yeah winter rated tires are way better. Just to name a few (and infact these have very similar patterns) The Bridgestone Dueler A/T RevoII's and Wildcountry XTX's (made by Dean Tire which is a cooper sub company), The new cooper ATR's and I believe Yokohoma has a pretty good A/T out now.

thx, i was looking at a dueler at firestone, and i currently have some wildcountry's.
 
I ran P rated on my Ranger for a long time, never had a problem.

My F-150 came from the factory with them, it would take a lot for a Ranger to weigh as much as a F-150.

But if you want a semi-aggressive tire you won't find much asside from a C-rated tire anyway.

235/75-15 is a stupid common size, I would stay with that if you can. If you are in the middle of nowhere (easy to do in Nebraska) and have a blowout, you would be more likely to dig up a 235/75-15 than a 30/9.50x15.
 
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I ran P rated on my Ranger for a long time, never had a problem.

My F-150 came from the factory with them, it would take a lot for a Ranger to weigh as much as a F-150.

But if you want a semi-aggressive tire you won't find much asside from a C-rated tire anyway.

235/75-15 is a stupid common size, I would stay with that if you can. If you are in the middle of nowhere (easy to do in Nebraska) and have a blowout, you would be more likely to dig up a 235/75-15 than a 30/9.50x15.

is there a benefit to run p rated? any drawbacks (theoretically, not doubting you, just saying that just because you didn't have any problems doesn't mean there aren't any cautions against using them)

and of course, i would love to have bigger tires, bigger rims, jacked up suspension, etc... all in the name of looks, but i just don't have the mpg, money, or need to lose those two things. i'll just stick with stock size i suppose.
 
the 30/9.5's will fit on the same rims. as i said, there isn't more than a half-inch difference over your tires now. and they will fit in your wheel wells nicely. as those 2 sizes are so close, you can still use your 235/75 as the spare, no problem.
P = passenger car. LT = light truck. take your pick. as OR-84 stated, you're less likely to get punctures and cuts with a heavier tire carcass. it will also give you firmer handling and usually crisper response due to the heavier sidewalls.
if i can find an LT tire that fits my passenger car, i usually buy them for the better handling and cut/puncture resistance. but that's just me.
look over the suggestions here and go to tirerack, etc. and find ones that will suit your driving needs and budget. hard to make the wrong choice if you get the snowflake on them at least... imho. good luck and post up picks when you get them.
 
is there a benefit to run p rated? any drawbacks (theoretically, not doubting you, just saying that just because you didn't have any problems doesn't mean there aren't any cautions against using them)

and of course, i would love to have bigger tires, bigger rims, jacked up suspension, etc... all in the name of looks, but i just don't have the mpg, money, or need to lose those two things. i'll just stick with stock size i suppose.

Like the others said, they are not quite as strong, but they are quite a bit cheaper. LTs are heavier, and an increase in tire size will add to this for both braking and MPG.

I didn't notice any difference in ride or handling going from my P rated Seiberling II's to my LRC Dunlop Mud Rovers of the same size. My F-150 did stiffen up quite a bit going from P rated Nitto Terra Grapplers to LRC BFG MT's.

They came on my trucks and I ran the goody out of them before I got new ones, and when I did get new ones I didn't get P rated, but I do things you probably don't do in Omaha... on a mainly street driven truck I would almost say big deal. I ran on them for 9.5 years between the two trucks and the only problem was a hunk of steel (I suppose) that slashed a sidewall open when I was mudding in my F-150, I have seen 8+ ply bias tractor tires sliced open too by buried treasures so it is hard to say if an LT would have survived any better.

BTW, I got my BFG's here: http://stores.channeladvisor.com/yournexttire/?sck=23017765 They are out of Firth Nebraska by Lincoln, so it would be a fun little outing from someone in Omaha. Service was great, and I am thrilled with my tires. Selection varies a lot and their website isn't always up to date with what they have in stock, so it is best to call.
 
Like the others said, they are not quite as strong, but they are quite a bit cheaper. LTs are heavier, and an increase in tire size will add to this for both braking and MPG.

I didn't notice any difference in ride or handling going from my P rated Seiberling II's to my LRC Dunlop Mud Rovers of the same size. My F-150 did stiffen up quite a bit going from P rated Nitto Terra Grapplers to LRC BFG MT's.

They came on my trucks and I ran the goody out of them before I got new ones, and when I did get new ones I didn't get P rated, but I do things you probably don't do in Omaha... on a mainly street driven truck I would almost say big deal. I ran on them for 9.5 years between the two trucks and the only problem was a hunk of steel (I suppose) that slashed a sidewall open when I was mudding in my F-150, I have seen 8+ ply bias tractor tires sliced open too by buried treasures so it is hard to say if an LT would have survived any better.

BTW, I got my BFG's here: http://stores.channeladvisor.com/yournexttire/?sck=23017765 They are out of Firth Nebraska by Lincoln, so it would be a fun little outing from someone in Omaha. Service was great, and I am thrilled with my tires. Selection varies a lot and their website isn't always up to date with what they have in stock, so it is best to call.

thanks for the local tip, might serve to be very beneficial.

would I notice any differences if I moved up to like a 240 or 250? i realize that this makes the sidewalls smaller, is that a big deal? should i get slightly larger in the back to plant some more power on the pavement?

i know i'm asking a lot of questions, and they are probably dumb, but this is my first tire purchase, just trying to learn about them.

like these, a 245/60, 85 bucks a pop seems like a lot to me, but is it a pretty midrange price?
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/yo...e 245 60 15 Mastercraft Avenger G/T 60R15 R15

heres a 235/70 for 85 also
http://stores.channeladvisor.com/yo...re 235 70 15 Cooper Cobra Radial GT 70R15 R15
 
Wider doesn't really mean the sidewalls are smaller, the second number is a percentage. On a 235/75-15, the tread is 235mm wide, and the sidewall is 75% as tall as the tire is wide. For example, the 265/70-17's I had on my F-150 were pretty much the same tire as a 265/75-16 aside from the bigger hole in the middle.

Dunno about the pricing, for brand new tires I don't think it is too bad. The first tire is a car tire, not just P rated but it will look goofy on your truck. The second ones will still be small. I wouldn't go much smaller than a 235/75-15 if I could help it. I was tickled to get my 255/75-15 BFG's (they still have the same tread in a '30) for $125/tire. The Mastercraft Courser AT's my dad got at the same time for (to bundle shipping) were not on their website.

You need to check around for reviews on tires too, cheap doesn't always mean good.

On a 4x4, keep all tires the same size.

Here is a calculator to compare tire sizes, also gives the difference for your speedo:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/tire_and_speed_calc.html
 

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