Shop heat....

[rusty ol ranger]

Im in the process of cleaning out the polebarn at the old house. Its 30x50, unheated, and un insulated.

My goal once i get the thing cleared out is to partion off a 15ft wide by 30ft section of it, to set up a nice shop in.

New tools, actual air tools, a press, etc etc.

I want to heat it. I may insulate it at some point but im not sure yet. But my qustion is whats the best route to go?

1- Hardwire in a 220v electric?
2- Forced air propane salamander (what im leaning toward)
3- A standard diesel/kerosene powered salamander.

The electric ones are pricey, and i dont really wanna wire 220. But, it would be more convient, safer, and eaiser then the salamanders. But the salamanders are much cheaper, and getting fuel isnt that big of a deal. Im leaning toward propane just cause they wont stink like a diesel/kero fired one.

Opinions?

 

[Saddle Tramp]

I'd go with the propane salamander and pipe in a grill next to it.
Breakfast, coffee, and heat while you work.

 

[Dirtman]

One word....

 

[sgtsandman]

If a salamander is like a torpedo heater, one thing I have found is carbon monoxide can be an issue. I get no readings on my CO detector with my kerosene heaters but do with the propane torpedo heater. I’ve even gotten an alarm a couple of times. This is in my garage, which is not an air tight structure by any means.

Something to think about. I still use it to get the garage warned up faster but shut it off as soon as the edge is taken off of the chill and just use the kerosene heaters.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If a salamander is like a torpedo heater, one thing I have found is carbon monoxide can be an issue. I get no readings on my CO detector with my kerosene heaters but do with the propane torpedo heater. I’ve even gotten an alarm a couple of times. This is in my garage, which is not an air tight structure by any means.

Something to think about. I still use it to get the garage warned up faster but shut it off as soon as the edge is taken off of the chill and just use the kerosene heaters.

Really?

I figured kerosene would make more emissions then propane. Thats interesting....

 

[Snoranger]

If you think you’re going to insulate it in the future... do it now, while it’s cleaned out and not packed full of stuff. Once you have it loaded, you will never move everything out to add insulation.

 

[sgtsandman]

The kerosene heaters are the radiant kind, so could be more efficient than the torpedo style, which is more like an afterburner type deal. The fuel burn might not be as complete as a result.

I’m no heating expert, so all this is just theory. I’m just glad I have a CO monitor.

The funny thing is, I was more concerned with exhaust fumes when I put it in the garage.

 

[Dirtman]

Rusty's idea of a CO detector...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

The only other real option i have is i do have a wood stove i could hook up. But it takes up alotta room and would be a pain in the ass for the amount of heat it would put off. But its an option.

I dont need it roasting hot in there, but id like to be able to go out there in the dead of winter and work in a sweatshirt.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Torpedo heaters put out an awful lot of moisture which condenses on any cold metal.
I would do electric as then you have 220 for compressor and welders. Incorporate a waste oil burner into your airtight wood stove. Use a radiator with fan in the chimney stack to blow warm air through out the shop. Use the electric and wood together to get it to temp then shut off the electric or put it on a thermostat.
And yes to insulation. Do at least one wall and the roof where you plan on enclosing.

 

[Shran]

I have a similar size building (30x40, 10' walls, but very well insulated) and have heated it with a diesel torpedo heater, a kerosene radiant heater, and a 3 burner propane radiant heater. My preference by far is the propane one. It definitely has an odor but I can run it all day long and it doesn't bother me... a couple hours with either of the other options had me feeling light headed or nauseous. The diesel torpedo heater was the worst. Propane also costs far less than diesel or kero. Eventually I will have a hanging natural gas heater installed.

My buddy heats his shop with 220v electric heaters... it's like 32x60 or something like that and only about 1/3 of it is heated and sectioned off by a tarp. It's also very well insulated but his electric bills are outrageous... like $600+. One month a couple years ago we painted the interior walls and had the heaters running full blast to dry the paint - his bill that month was over $1000.

I know someone will mention wood heat, check with your insurance company first... most of them will not insure you if you have a wood or pellet stove in an outbuilding.

 

[RonD]

If you are pouring a slab put in pipes for hot water heat

If not then budget for some circulating fans on the ceiling, heat rises, lol, so you can be freezing at floor level when its toasty hot at the ceiling
If you can bring down ceiling height, from "pole barn" height, it will help as well, hot air rises, always will

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If you are pouring a slab put in pipes for hot water heat

If not then budget for some circulating fans on the ceiling, heat rises, lol, so you can be freezing at floor level when its toasty hot at the ceiling
If you can bring down ceiling height, from "pole barn" height it will help as well, hot air rises, always will

Nah the building is already there. Lol. Otherwise yes id be laying water pipe. I do plan on lowering the ceiling by covering the rafters and putting up some insulation up there.

I have a similar size building (30x40, 10' walls, but very well insulated) and have heated it with a diesel torpedo heater, a kerosene radiant heater, and a 3 burner propane radiant heater. My preference by far is the propane one. It definitely has an odor but I can run it all day long and it doesn't bother me... a couple hours with either of the other options had me feeling light headed or nauseous. The diesel torpedo heater was the worst. Propane also costs far less than diesel or kero. Eventually I will have a hanging natural gas heater installed.

My buddy heats his shop with 220v electric heaters... it's like 32x60 or something like that and only about 1/3 of it is heated and sectioned off by a tarp. It's also very well insulated but his electric bills are outrageous... like $600+. One month a couple years ago we painted the interior walls and had the heaters running full blast to dry the paint - his bill that month was over $1000.

I know someone will mention wood heat, check with your insurance company first... most of them will not insure you if you have a wood or pellet stove in an outbuilding.

I actually dont plan on heating the whole barn. Just the spot im partining off. The other side of the new wall will be just storage. Im really only heating about 450 sq feet. So it wont he a huge shop, but big enough for me.

The storage side of the barn has a huge sliding door that is a total bitch in the winter. It freezes to the ground, snow gets packed around it, its just a pita. The side im sectioning off has a 10ft wide by (iirc)11 ft garage door on it.

 

[Josh B]

I don't think anything compares to wood far as cost and volume of heat is concerned.
It is a bit more work but in my mind well worth it. If you have to buy wood need to get on that early summer to get the best price.
Far as disposal of the ashes just keep it clean and dump it right onto the garden or into the compost pile

 

[Josh B]

Does this look familiar Rusty?