Shift motor replacement question

[salanw1]

Okay, finally got around to fixing my 4wd. Found the diagnostic page in the tech library and got it down to a frozen shift motor. Got a new Dorman from Advance Auto for $70 after a coupon discount, but when I got back under the truck to finish the swap realized it was missing 3 wires. After a little research on the web found that I am supposed to pull the pins out of the connector to the three wires(speed sensor and ground to case) and plug them into the connector on the new motor. The question is, how do I get the pins to come out. I had to use a magnifying glass to even see that there are tangs there, but I can't seem to get them to move so the pins will pull out the back side. What am I missing.

 

[salanw1]

Follow up question, if I can get the motor to move manually into the 4hi position and put it back on, since I have manual lockouts, I should be able to drive it without hurting anything correct? Short term at least?

 

[Earl43P]

Yes you can drive it with it manually placed in 4Hi.


I have used 14 gage solid copper wire to remove those pins.
Take a 4" section of bare wire and bend the end to an L.

Take a hammer to the end and tap it nice and flat for about 1/4".
Shape the tip with small dykes.

Use that as a wedge, applying pressure to the release tang and pulling lightly on the wire as you do so. Should release easily. Might spray some WD40 to help loosen the crud.

 

[salanw1]

Switching the wire pins over when replacing the shift motor

Thanks for the response Earl. I kind of figured it would be about the same as an AWD, but thought better safe to ask first.
Anyway, it doesn't matter because I figured out the pin thing. I was more asking in case I needed to put the old one back in because I need to go somewhere and this is my only vehicle at the moment.

This is for anybody else that ends up in my situation on replacing a shift motor(BTW, this is on a '93 Ranger XLT, 4.0L, Auto, Regular cab.)
There is a red locking cam that wedges down into the wiring pigtail that locks the pins into place. If you simply take a curved dental type pick you can pry the cam out then the locking tabs for each individual wire pin can be accessed for removing the three wires/pins that go to the transfer case.

On a side note; when diagnosing the electronics of the 4x4, the module is behind the driver's seat behind a plastic cover. has 2 studs with 10mm nuts holding it in place. Fairly easy to get to. Wiring is the same as described in the tech library for transfer case troubleshooting under the 1994 and older.

Hopefully this will help somebody else someday. Glad these forums are here. Makes working on these Rangers a lot easier, lol.