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shaving emblems and have questions


when shaving emblems can i just bondo or fiber glass the holes instead of welding pieces in the holes?

Good morning: Yes you can use either IF you prep it correctly. Sand the area with rough paper (36 - 50) and get a good surrounding area sanded. If you can reach behind the panel, put in something to help support the filler. The best material is called Dyna-Glass which is similar to Bondo (BETTER) and it has short fiberglass strands in it that helps strengthen it.
Put this filler on/in and sand smooth but not down completely to the panel, leave a small amount on the outside f the panel, just blend it out further so it is not obvious.
I hope that sounds right this early in the AM - LOL

Good Luck
 
ehh, you can just putty over the holes but that will not last long. Before long moisture will get to the backside of the paint and cause the filler to lift and/or swell. And yes fiberglass filler will do this as well. All-metal is ur best bet without putting a patch in, it will hold out against moisture the best. My honest advise is that if u do not want to or do not have the means to weld in the holes go to a shop that sells quality body supplies and get the fusor product that is made for glueing metal panels together, i don't remember the exact number but they will have the chart for ya.
 
Countersink it. Take a punch that fits snug in the hole and give it a few light taps with a hammer to basically dent it. You want to have a nice even spread of fiberglass filler (I would never use bondo on a job like this) and sand it smooth. I use Duraglass and Gorilla Hair to do the flling most of the time, Duraglass would be the best bet for your application.

Ben
 
or, you can plug the back (if you can) and then use lead like they did in the old days before body filler (bondo) which will make the material just as hard as the surface metal... mind you it will be rust proof as well.

you just need a torch to heat up the lead to apply it, a word block with parifan wax to keep the lead from sticking to it... and a lead bar.

simply heat up the lead bar and dab it over the hole.. then use the block to smooth it out... heating it as needed so it'll move around. then sand and paint.

you can also braze it shut if you feel the need to braze that much... lead is easier though IMO.
 
where can i buy dura glass ??????

Any good autobody supply should have it. I know Eastwood has it and I think I saw a tub of it at Carquest last time I was there. It's made by USC. I love it because you can sand it as smooth as bondo and you can either prime and paint over it or you might need a small ammount of bondo for a skim coat.

If ya got anymore questions just PM me, I do autobody and can get you through most repairs.

Ben
 
you guys think I'm crazy don't you... using lead to fill body work?
 
Any good autobody supply should have it. I know Eastwood has it and I think I saw a tub of it at Carquest last time I was there. It's made by USC. I love it because you can sand it as smooth as bondo and you can either prime and paint over it or you might need a small ammount of bondo for a skim coat.

If ya got anymore questions just PM me, I do autobody and can get you through most repairs.

Ben

Keep in mind this material contains fiberglass fibers and when sanding you SHOULD be wearing proper protection such as respiratory protection. A simple dust mask will be adequate doing small spots by hand, but if you are doing large areas with a sander, disc, DA or something similar and there is a lot of dust - you need a "respirator" half-face minimum with particulate cartridges.

you guys think I'm crazy don't you... using lead to fill body work?

Using lead is not a crazy idea - as mentioned above protect yourself, the fumes released when heating the lead can be toxic to humans. One breath is not going to cause adverse effects, but long term exposure can cause significant health effects.
 
only if you burn it... melting should be ok... you're only softening the metal.

but as you suggest, don't take any chances with it!!!
 
Even when melting it's releasing some fumes. There are some companies that have leadless lead fillers. I dunno how they work compared to lead but I haven't heard anything bad about them.

On sort of the same note USC makes a metal based body filler, I think it's called All Metal, and it works great for high stress areas. I'm in the process of using this where the lead on my '72 Chevelle was (seam where 1/4 meets roof, roof meets A pillars, etc.)

Ben
 
only if you burn it... melting should be ok... you're only softening the metal.

but as you suggest, don't take any chances with it!!!

Yes is does - the moment the lead begins to melt you are releasing fumes (NOT vapors) and that is where your exposure occurs and protection is needed. Lead accumulates in your bodies soft tissues and bone marrow causing central nervous system effects. It is know as a neurotoxin, although it will leach out of your system slowly, do not take the risk - especially if you have kids around, they are more susceptible.

Good product if used properly and safely. :icon_thumby:
 
yes you can do this and yes it is possible for moisture to get in behind bondo but fiberglass in water proof so i suggest filling with fiberglass then smothing with bondo that is what i did and havnt had any problems o and yes lead fumes/vapers are very bad for you
 
there are epoxy body fillers that are more expensive... but there is NO moisture absorption and it's rock solid.

fiberglass resin is basically the same thing except it's not designed for metal work... though it does work good.
 
Even when melting it's releasing some fumes. There are some companies that have leadless lead fillers. I dunno how they work compared to lead but I haven't heard anything bad about them. Ben

I've never heard anything good about leadless solders, when I was working in the rad shop we only used lead solder, and we never used any kind of masks, but we had negative pressure hoods above are test tanks/ work area.
 

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