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Sgt Ex


I'd personally go Triangulated 4 link as it keeps your body roll to a bare minimum ( assuming it's been set up properly of course )
 
Yea, but I don't already have a triangulated 4 link in place. All i would have to do is add a track bar and a set of coil buckets. Buddy of mine already offered a set of 5" TJ lift springs
 
It's up to you, but I'd seriously reconsider triangulating the links. I'd be willing to bet that you won't like the parallel 4-link set up.
 
Why is it called a "4" link of there is a 5th link for the track bar ?!?



these are the weird things that go through my mind sometimes, I know it doesn't help with your question, but any who.




Robert



sent with a backwards time clock and rooster.
 
Parallel 4-link

images


Triangulated 4-link

images
 
I think I can make the seats work. Did you try unbolting the seat brackets from the seat and swapping them out?


SVT
 
Not yet but I will.
 
NEED A HOOD

Anyone local who is wanting to part with one cheap (I mean sub 50 bucks cheap) please contact me. I will not cut holes into my American Flag hood, which is why i am needing another one.
 
finally warmed up enough for me to work on it for an hour or so...

Turns out the leafs are not bad at all. The spring pads between the leafs are shot, but they are actually in good shape minus one small problem... The bushings are gone. After beating with a hammer and having to cut the bolts off, I got the leafs out. Going to replace those, then throw everything back together. Ordered a set of Energy Suspension poly bushings to replace the ones i currently have. The frame ones will be replaced later. I did get everything painted out back as well, so as soon as my bushings get here, everything is going back together. If it warms up, I'll go on and put the axle back together while I'm waiting on the bushing to arrive.

Spoke with the seat guy, says he will have them done by next wednesday. Going wheeling next weekend at Red River Gorge, so time is running out.

The list to finish by next wednesday is below:

*Tighten up doubler linkage
*bedline the floor
*Install the seats
*Install the rear suspension
*put the rear axle back together
*Install a radio
*install the 2 new-to-me driver doors
 
For some reason, I've never had good luck with Poly bushings in leaf springs. Everywhere else they worked great, but wore out insanely quick in the leaves. They were shot in one wheeling season whereas stock bushings lasted 25 years lol. Just something to think about.
 
really? Hmm. 1st I've heard of any bad instances with poly bushings. I've already ordered these and i couldn't find the normal factory style moog bushings anywhere that would get here soon enough, so I just jumped on the poly wagon.

When you say they were worn out, what do you mean? The current factory style bushings are in 3 pieces. The outer metal ring, the rubber (or lack there of), and the inner sleeve. All 3 are separated from each other.
 
They cracked all to hell. You cant grease the damn things. I go through a lot of mud/water. Poly bushings need to be properly greased and maintained to last. They get squeeky as hell to.
 
****. Well looks like these wont be lasting long
 
I always figured rubber bushings were the way to go with leaf bushings due to the extra little bit of flex they can provide over the stiffer poly's. Just something else to consider.
 
Also if greasing them is the only problem you have with them, there are options for greaseable hardware, or it wouldn't be too terribly tough to make something up.

-->clicky<--I know these are for a jeep, but I was feeling lazy and you get the idea.
 

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