Several Questions!

[DailyRanger4x2]

Ok guys here it goes I own a 1995 2WD SWB STD cab 4 banger XLT. I have decided to go with a 2 or 3” body lift in order to get more clearance for a set of 15” wheels and some 30” all terrain tires. Which in turn raises a few questions up since I am new to the “increased elevation” scene. I have used the search engine here on site and found a few things but not all my answers. I have also printed up the How-to portion from the tech forum telling me how to actually do the lift.

Also this thing is a daily driver to and from work 20 hwy miles per day one way. The only reason I am even considering the lift is that I am a hunter and some of the Alabama red clay/dirt/mud roads I get on are slicker than owl $hit when it rains and the normal 14” street tires just baaaarely cut it, making for an interesting hunting trip and a wedge shape in the seat when I get out from butt pucker.SO this build isn’t for a hardcore boggin rig just a setup to where I can go where I need to without worrying too much.( I have yet to be able to find a 14” all terrain tire)

My questions are as follows:
1.) I know my Ranger stock has a 4.5x5 bolt pattern and a 4” backspacing (I think), However with the increased wheel/tire size am I going to go with a different backspacing? If so what should it be?
2.) I would like to go with a stock steel or alloy wheel for this application, so what donor vehicles/wheels match up to the above criteria?
3.) I read that with a suspension left that an alignment will need to be done but will one be needed with putting on the larger tires in conjunction with the body lift?
4.) I am also debating on welding the gears in the rear end in order to get more traction but this is a daily driver ranger, would you guys recommend against doing so and what are the drawbacks if I did this?
5.) The “lockers” that I have seen mentioned on this site are they full time or can you disengage them to where you go back to limited slip?
6.) What kind of variance can I expect on gas mileage and “felt power” from this setup once done? (If it’s a drastic difference what is a remedy?)
7.) On a side note I am planning to fabricate a light bar that mounts to the 3rd brake light on top of the cab. I currently use a solid fiberglass shell that prevents me from using standard in the bed light bars. For you guys that run light bars how many/what lights can we run without it pulling on the electrical system too hard and having to upgrade the alternator? Any of you guys tried this yet?

 

[metalmacguyver]

The closest thing that I found to an all terrain for a 14" tire were the Bridgestone dueler APT.

1) I would recommend stock 15" ranger wheels. You can find these at a junkyard for not too much.
2) Rangers or explorers would be the best vehicles to look for wheels off of.
3) You will not need an alignment for your body lift.
4) Welding the rear on a daily driver is not the best option for most people.
5) Lockers: this is a copy and past of somethign I posted before.

LOCKERS
If you want a locker, you have 3 types. Automatic, selectable, and solid.

A solid one is either a "Lincoln locker" where the spider gears are welded together and to the carrier or a full spool that serves the same purpose and replaces the carrier or a mini spool that just replaces the spiders.

An automatic locker is one that has a ratcheting mechanism in it so that it can slip when you’re turning and are not on the gas and will lockup as soon as you give it gas. Lock-right, Detroit and Aussie all make automatic lockers. Most automatics replace the spiders but one of the two that Detroit makes replaces the carrier.

A selectable locker is one that you can turn on and off like the e-locker in your titan. The one made my OX is manual and has a shift lever that mounts in the cab. ARB lockers are operated by air. This means that they need some type of compressor to go with them. E-lockers are electronically operated. Then there is the Ected locker/limited slip which is made by Auburn. This one is again an electric locker but it also has the L/S feature when unlocked.

Lockers are not cheap though. Welding or spooling is the cheapest but if you have a daily driver then you will not want to do either of those. Automatics are about 200-300 dollars and a lot of people like them for the price. Selectable are really nice but they are expensive both in initial cost, 600-900 dollars and in the installation cost because the gears need to be set up again because selectable lockers replace the carrier. Gear setup can be 150-300 dollars.

6) Change in gas mileage and "felt power" will depend on what your current gears and tire size are. Check the tech library to find out what gears you have from the axle code on the sticker on your door.
7) When it comes to adding lights, most people do it with out considering the alternator. I dont know what it would take for you to want to replace the (most likely) 90 amp alternator that you have. But I do know that you can get a 130 amp alternator from an explorer that would fit your truck.

Did that help?

 

[DailyRanger4x2]

All year ranger/explorer 15" wheels have sufficient backspacing?

 

[4x4junkie]

Anything except '02 & up Explorer wheels (most of these are 16s anyway).

 

[twoj05]

A little late to this one, but here is what I have. A '95 Supercab XLT w/factory 15x7 Steel chromed rims, 3.73 gears. No suspension lift and 30x9.5 BF Goodrich All-Terrains under the wells. Tires don't rub and look great. Gas mileage is about 22-23 MPG with a 5 speed manual. Also, I have a fiberglass cap on the back.
If you haven't done it yet, I would say save the lift money and get a good locker. This thing is undriveable in the winter.
One more thing. Check the tech item about the throttle cable. I fixed mine and it works great. Almost like having a real motor under the hood.
Good luck.