Serious rust problem

[ccbesq]

Last year I bought what appeared to be a really nice 2004 Edge - Oxford white with a 97 k on a 4.0L engine, 4WD and a clean body.
I installed Mustang buckets recovered in leather by list member Troy Stevenson along with an Explorer center console, a Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, Rancho shocks, a SuperChips Flashpac and some other small goodies. Over the next six months the rockers started to show rust that got really bad really fast, and I just spent a bundle having them and the outer portions of the floor pan completely re-built. In doing that work my body shop guy found that the entire underside of the truck is severely rusted, and that the guy I bought it from had done a masterful job of hiding it - undercoating, bondo and textured paint - you name it. My bad.

Anyway, I love the truck, it runs great, and the interior is gorgeous. So I'm hoping to restore or at least save it. My body shop guy says the radiator supports are badly rusted and need to be replaced, and that the doors will go next, since the lower portions of all four are rusted on the inside and were repainted to cover the little bit that had come through. He couldn't get the bed off because all the mounting bolts were badly rusted, and he was afraid he'd open up a real Pandora's box if he cut them and took the bed off.

I've put a thread up in Classifieds looking for new doors, but the problems won't stop there. So I guess I'm looking for advice (aside from the obvious - junking it or driving it off a cliff) and a little support. I'm sure many on this list have been through this kind of nightmare, and I'm sure there are things I can learn from others' experience. Thanks.

 

[Dan B.]

Rust is a never ending monster that will consume vehicles whole.

Living in PA I have found that anything I want to keep nice will never see the roads from October to May. I keep my DD's patched up with spring paint repairs and body work....then hope it lasts to the next spring. If the rust is underneath, I clean off as much as possible, coat with a rust convertor, then undercoat.

 

[killj0y]

Last year I bought what appeared to be a really nice 2004 Edge - Oxford white with a 97 k on a 4.0L engine, 4WD and a clean body.
I installed Mustang buckets recovered in leather by list member Troy Stevenson along with an Explorer center console, a Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, Rancho shocks, a SuperChips Flashpac and some other small goodies. Over the next six months the rockers started to show rust that got really bad really fast, and I just spent a bundle having them and the outer portions of the floor pan completely re-built. In doing that work my body shop guy found that the entire underside of the truck is severely rusted, and that the guy I bought it from had done a masterful job of hiding it - undercoating, bondo and textured paint - you name it. My bad.

Anyway, I love the truck, it runs great, and the interior is gorgeous. So I'm hoping to restore or at least save it. My body shop guy says the radiator supports are badly rusted and need to be replaced, and that the doors will go next, since the lower portions of all four are rusted on the inside and were repainted to cover the little bit that had come through. He couldn't get the bed off because all the mounting bolts were badly rusted, and he was afraid he'd open up a real Pandora's box if he cut them and took the bed off.

I've put a thread up in Classifieds looking for new doors, but the problems won't stop there. So I guess I'm looking for advice (aside from the obvious - junking it or driving it off a cliff) and a little support. I'm sure many on this list have been through this kind of nightmare, and I'm sure there are things I can learn from others' experience. Thanks.

Honestly man if it's that bad you'll be replacing most of the vehicle why not cut your losses or find another in better condition body wise and make a frankenstein so you can actually get ahead. If the chassis and integral parts are fine you can consider just swapping the body parts and that would allow you to get it all painted to your tastes and patched or whatever while you drive your current rig. Then swap what you need, you could even find a clean one with a shot engine and pay less you know? You gotta be looking at a huge bill in body work right now that would probably be and faster to boot.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Ford had a TSB on the 97-03 F-150's to open up the crimp at the bottom of the door, sandblast it, pinch it back and reseal it correctly. Something similar may apply to you.

Pics of the radiator support?

LMC truck has a lot of stuff like that, probably wouldn't be rocket science to change it yourself and either rattlecan it white or have it painted afterwards.

My dd ('02 F-150) had a cab corner go soft and 3 doors needed fixed. It was something like $1700 to fix at the time. Decided it probably wasn't worth it. Glad I didn't because 2 years later flecks of rust are showing through on the box and what you can see up inside on the fender support when the doors are open... and then it got the crap kicked out of it in a hail storm.

 

[skoal777]

i know the feeling i have had my truck for almost 5 years in that time i have had to do a lot of body work along with engine and drive train work there really isnt anything i havent replaced or fixed that being said i have only put about $1000 a year into it so thats less than a car payment. i have done both cab corners, both front fenders, the rad support, both rear quarters on the bed, fixed the bottom of the bed and also some other smaller spots. the only real reason i keep it other than i like the style is it has NEVER left me on the side of the road. it always breaks down at home. If you love the truck fix it by all means and do as much as you can yourself thats how you learn thats how i learned. if you are unsure ask the people on here they are very helpful. best of luck in whatever path you take

 

[adsm08]

Rust is a problem, especially in the North. This weekend I just bought a nearly rust free body for my truck.

As for the bed bolts, those not coming out is a common issue. They had a high-grade thread locker on them when installed at the factory. Since they are held on by J-nuts on most years I would just cut the bend of the nut and replace the hardware.