SenorNoob's '88 Ext Cab "Build"

[SenorNoob]

It may not matter.

I thinks it obvious which is the new one. It was shorter than the other one in store. By about the same amount that my old is shorter than it... Feels kinds silly. At least that's $28 back in my pocket when i return it.

Which I've already spent on a spindle nut socket that I could make actually fit.

The notches were cut into so that the pin on the inner nut will let it sit flush. I had wondered why I've struggled with the socket I had. Turns out the inner nut has a larger outside diameter. This style socket doesn't care about that.

And I noticed this:

No idea why the tire is rubbing now. It didn't before the lift kit.

I installed the new wheel bearings. Not sure yet if that is going to make a difference. Also gooped up the gaskets either side of the catalytic converter. Hoping to stop the leak that screws up my idle, especially in cold weather.

 

[SenorNoob]

Wheel bearings did help. Now I hear the rusty ass rear brakes. Exhaust leak is gone so far. It hasn't gotten really cold yet though.

Installed rear springs.

Out with the old:

In with the "new":

Not as much lift as I'd hoped. 1" Rear is still 1" shorter than front with the winch on it. I'm thinking about an add-a-leaf.

Apparently the u-bolts were loose. I spent an hour making sure I got the new ones tight. It drives much nicer , except now it pulls to the drivers' side.

 

[mr_manny]

No idea why the tire is rubbing now. It didn't before the lift kit.

Due to the lift, your alignment is slightly off...causing the rubbing.

 

[scotts90ranger]

To get the extra lift in the back I would do "chevy lowering shackles", it'll ride better than add a leafs.

 

[SenorNoob]

I already have those. So my options are add a leaf (Thinking about trying the tallest leaf from the old spring pack.) or blocks. I guess I could lower the spring perches off the frame..

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, when I lifted my Ranger I cobbled together the leaf springs by adding one from something else, it helps... that and I moved from the stock 2" blocks to some 3" blocks but that causes axle wrap...

 

[SenorNoob]

New (to me) seats installed:

Had to tap the rear most holes on the passenger side.

That's when I noticed this:

That simply wouldn't do.

All better:

$22 worth of hardware to mount the slider to the driver's side.

I don't have the double slider on the passenger side working yet. The Mustang seat recline mechanism doesn't have the same arm to release it. I'm thinking of making a roller and using a piece of high tension cable to pull the lever when the seat folds forward. I started to take the original double slider and adapt it to the driver's side. Good thing I didn't Would've been too tall after having to space the rail off the seat base anyway.

The new seats sit higher off the floor (enough to make climbing in interesting) and the back is closer to the steering wheel. (I have to move the seat 2 notches from the back to drive.) I don't think these would work as is for a tall person. (I'm only 5'7".) Time will tell how much I like them.

The seat belt holder things are in the way. Gonna take them off when I go back to tomorrow night.

 

[SenorNoob]

Almost forgot. The junkyard trip was the first time I've had it on the interstate since I replaced the driver's side wheel bearing. There is a little roar now and very minor vibration but I'm happy with it. I suspect most of what's left is rear brakes related (those rotors/drums are ^&**%$&^). I have new just gotta do it.

 

[SenorNoob]

I'm liking them so far. Couple days of driving to work.

This is how I made the double slider work:

Works exactly like the original except that mow it fold forward and releases with the lever on the back of the seat. It's actually easier for a passenger to get out.
Yes, I put the cover back on. It's notched on the bottom where the cable run up into it.