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SenorNoob's '88 Ext Cab "Build"


I see that now. $189.95 for the kit...
 
Everything has gone up so much it's silly. Damned inflation. I'm waiting for parts to come in now. The driver side coil bucket was fine. All the rivets are removed.

The solid transmission crossmember is in except for the single bolt on the driver's side. I almost put in backwards. It actually fits surprisingly well that way. 2 of the 3 holes lined up. Probably gonna have to buy some more 7/16 fine thread bolts and locknuts to get everything bolted up.

I brushed some Rustoleum rusty metal primer and flat black on the frame. Should've got the 8oz cans. Quarts of each were WAY too much. Maybe I'll use it eventually.

Brackets all lined up:
gCUAAMc.jpeg


The pitting under the passenger coil bucket:
SdpGOam.jpeg


And a couple extra pics of my other project vehicle:
339aQKq.jpeg

4rtpbcy.jpeg
 
I was wondering how hard it is to do the buckets. One of my Broncos need the bucket replaced when I get on to that project, hopefully this fall/winter. From what I have seen it looks like they have a rivet that is in the middle of the frame. I am hoping it is easier to replace then what it looks like.

That looks like an older bike. I bought a XL185 new in 1982 and really enjoyed that bike as a kid. I could ride it all day long. Some of those bikes are climbing in value now. I always like the little 50cc bikes from the 70's. One day I would like to restore one.
 
I was wondering how hard it is to do the buckets. One of my Broncos need the bucket replaced when I get on to that project, hopefully this fall/winter. From what I have seen it looks like they have a rivet that is in the middle of the frame. I am hoping it is easier to replace then what it looks like.

That looks like an older bike. I bought a XL185 new in 1982 and really enjoyed that bike as a kid. I could ride it all day long. Some of those bikes are climbing in value now. I always like the little 50cc bikes from the 70's. One day I would like to restore one.
The worst part of doing the coil buckets was removing the rivets and cleaning up rust. Surprisingly you can get in the frame where you need to for bolting a new one on. I want to say I had to get a couple bolts started and run a drill through a couple holes that weren’t lined up enough for a bolt.
 
this thread is a hell of a time capsule
 
...run a drill through a couple holes that weren’t lined up enough for a bolt.
I had the same experience after putting a jack under one corner to flex the bucket enough to get it halfway lined up. (Harbor freight step bit are awesome.) I had a couple holes on the passenger side that were like that. (One on the bucket and one on the lift bracket.) All of the brackets are on now. Along with the solid transmission crossmember.

I didn't realize how low the drop brackets make the radius arm crossmember. I had it pre-assembled on the table and it looks like a ROPS for a zero turn. LOL

Really need to be working on it now, but it's raining. I noticed yesterday that whatever front brake hoses I already had were the same length as the Chevy 2500 ones in the tech article and have an upper end better suited to the Ranger. Gotta figure out what those are.
 
I was able to find my receipt picture where I bought the hoses in '14.

BH380389 (25-1/2) & BH380390 (24-11/16)
Spec'ed as stock for a 95-97 Ranger.

BH380376 (29-9/16) (95-01 Explorer) Seems like it would work and be longer if you don't need the hard part of the line.
 
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It's drivable again. Actually just got back from dinner in it. The lift makes cornering more interesting for sure, but it's actually more stable on the highway with the stiffer springs. Just wondered how much of that is from the updated solid transmission crossmember. I still need to put the transfer case skid plate back on. That made a differnce when it was on before.

HzwE6fk.jpeg


That's how my alignment at home turned out. No noticeable hot spots after a few miles on the asphalt. I'm still gonna try to get it in to a shop. Pretty sure the toe is till off. The steering wheel definitely is. It's at about a 45* angle opposite direction from where it was before.

6gD01UM.jpeg

Front height /\ vs rear \/
SmTC4yC.jpeg


Roughly 2 in lower. It's not as noticeable from the side IMO.
y6y86SH.jpeg


Steering. It's about right. I expect it settle over then next week. That's part of the reason I went thru the trouble to do my own alignment before taking it to a shop. I've made that mistake before. I don't want it to move AFTER the alignment again.
Take note that this a 4" spring with a 1/2 washer under each side under a 4.0 supercab with the beams in the 6" hole on the lift and the FA600 pitman arm. So the math is right. FA600 for 4" lift. Custom steering for anything more.
yIyUuQ2.jpeg

I definitely won't be taking the suspension any higher for this reason. Which may change plans for tires/gears. I'm thinking stopping at 265/75R16 (31.65x10.43) might be the right move for my truck. That would put me almost exactly where I'm at now for gearing with new tires and 4.10 gears. I'd save a quite a bit just getting another Explorer rear axle and Ruff Stuff kit that way. Just put new outer bearing and seals and rebuild the Trac-Loc. I already have all new brake parts for one. Then I might tackle front gears (and a Jeep limited slip myself. The front diff isn't nearly as critical since it doesn't spin for hours at highway speed.

The new coil bucket doesn't have a tab long enough to go under the first round of the spring to hold it in. Currently has hose clamps on both side. If I find a couple of the F150 "J" upper retainers somewhere I'll definitely get them.

Other mods under consideration as well. OBA vs inflator. Portable power station or 2000watt continuous inverter and extra battery. DIY truck bed tent or army cots and larger tent. 12v fridge. Spare tire mounting. Bumpers. ETC
 
Looks great!
 
Thank you. That means a lot. Your truck and advice has inspired and guided me along the way.

Funny though. I remember when you started your thread.
 
My Choptop uses the F-150 J retainers for the coil springs. I had to replace the ones on my F-150 years ago and then got to wondering why I couldn’t just get another pair and put them on the Choptop. So I did, just figured out where they seemed to fit alright and drilled a hole for a bolt. It’s worked great.
 
One easy way to check your toe is just to back up a few feet on concrete/asphalt, if the front suspension lowers about an inch you're probably fine, if more then too much toe in...
 
Nice trick. I will have to remember it...
 
Just a note I haven't gone by this but with the TTB/TIB there's significant "jacking" if the toe is off, I think my '97 is toed in a bit much but the tire wear is good so I've left it...
 

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