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SCX-10 Build Thread


I will dont worry I'm pretty excited to get it. It will be cheaper to mod then my ranger and keep me from putting more money into it :P
 
Thats true! did you get the kit or RTR?

Id reccomend a servo with atleast 200 oz-in, metal steering links, and axle links for the bottom on the back. if you want speed and power, grab a brushless system with a 18 turn to 25 turn motor.

I havent done anything to my truck since i started this thread. lol
 
I got the RTR kit just cause It was a good deal. I picked up a 5000mah battery today and I plan on running it first then find out what i need as i go. Thanks for the ideas though i'm sure over time i'll end up getting some better stuff. The front bumper is one of the things i might replace too many people complain that it hangs up on rocks.
 
heres my scx10

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I run no bumpers as they do get hung up. You dont need a entire link kit for it, just lower metal ones for the rear. Its a well built truck stock, just isnt a crawler out of the box.

Also, if you want to crawl grab a venom 55 turn motor and a 16 or 17 tooth pinnion. they are about $20.

only reason i went to the raith, i like FLEXXX
 
I can't drive my truck right now due to a Venom 60t with a burned up commutator. I do not recommend this motor at all. Sure, its the second motor I've toasted, but the first one was the stock motor. I'm re-gearing it to a 13/93 and throwing in a 17 turn mod motor now. My rig can't crawl anyways, too tall - it flips over backwards with the motor moved forward and the battery as far forward as I can go, plus I extended the rear axle as far back as physically possible.
 
I can't drive my truck right now due to a Venom 60t with a burned up commutator. I do not recommend this motor at all. Sure, its the second motor I've toasted, but the first one was the stock motor. I'm re-gearing it to a 13/93 and throwing in a 17 turn mod motor now. My rig can't crawl anyways, too tall - it flips over backwards with the motor moved forward and the battery as far forward as I can go, plus I extended the rear axle as far back as physically possible.

yea my venom is a beater motor. i run a novak goat 2S in my all out crawler.
 
Cool thanks for the tips man. I've been doing research and looking around at parts. There is the frame mount servo parts with metal steering linkage to make it look real and also give you a better radius
 
Cool thanks for the tips man. I've been doing research and looking around at parts. There is the frame mount servo parts with metal steering linkage to make it look real and also give you a better radius

Hand Brother's make a nice kit. I'd run one, but my truck is far too tall for it to work right. My 2.2's are below the bottom of my bumper height.
 
I've broken a few driveshafts... currently I have some T-Maxx shafts on it. I cut the joint off of a female shaft, cut a male shaft in half, and glued the female piece onto what was left of the male shaft to make an extended female shaft. I then used a regular male shaft to finish the whole thing off. So far they have held together. At full droop I have about a 50 degree angle on the front transmission output - this is the joint that I kept popping out with the stock shafts. At ride height with a battery in it, it's not so bad. I drive the tar out of this thing, it works pretty good. My thread is on page 2, I haven't taken pictures of any of my recent work, but all I have done is stuff to the chassis itself and simplified a few things since I last took photos. There's pics of it in there somewhere with the extended links, MSR11 shocks, and 2.2 tires. It will go through and over anything, as long as it doesn't have to climb so steep that it tips over backwards - hence the tire mounted on back of the roof as a bumper, lol. It still goes kinda steep, though. The articulation is awesome for a non-cantilever setup with vertical shocks mounted on the axle. If I was to mount the shocks angled and on the links, I know I can get 90 degrees out of it, but I really like how it drives right now. The other truck in the photos is a stock SCX-10 with stock T-Maxx shocks.

EDIT -
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As you can see, I really, really need to drop the transmission about an inch. I THINK I have a way figured out that won't affect the suspension geometry too much, and I have some aluminum stock ready to go. More importantly, I need steel driveshafts, steel output shafts, and probably some stronger axles. I haven't checked yet, but I think I have started to lose teeth on the rear ring gear. It has a slight tick to it. This thing also has a LOT of miles on it, I used to take it for several miles a day out hiking when I had the time to do that. I'm amazed it's been as reliable as it has been - the STOCK driveshaft made it probably 30 miles of beating on it after I put on the shocks and tires, and it had T-Maxx shocks on it from almost day one, a year and a half ago. I do dumb stuff, too, like letting friends drive it who just want to slam reverse and then forward doing wheelies for a half hour straight.
 
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Here she is :) went wheeling today with my buddy and the set screw holding the drive shaft to the front axle fell out which sucked so now i need a new set screw but oh well it was fun anyway




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Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
Lol i'm glad im not the only one. I'm probably gonna take it to the hobby shop tomorrow to see if they have a replacement one
 

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