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sas 94 ranger


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are u having problems wiht the TTB d35?? ive never actually broken a axle with the d35 runnign tires up to 35's with no issues. but it might just be me, i dont lock the front axle so that could be a issue in play, i just think swapping in a d30 inplace of a ttb d35 is a gian downgrade, just my thoughts take it for what its worth

i keep going through hubs like no tomorrow and my plan is to fun the d 30 till i can afford a d44 from a Rubicon
 
i keep going through hubs like no tomorrow and my plan is to fun the d 30 till i can afford a d44 from a Rubicon

Why not just put the better hubs on it??... :icon_confused:
 
Hubs or unitbearings? I think I'd choose hubs. if you are unhappy with the hubs, you won't be happy with replacing 120$ unitbearings yearly.
 
im talking bout replacing 2 bearings a $30 a pop every month to two months it sux.these are the instructions i follow. install the inner nut (the one with the guide pin). These nuts require a four-prong spanner type spindle nut wrench. Tighten the nut to 35 lbs-ft while rotating the hub to seat the bearing. Back the nut off 90 degrees (about 1/4-turn) Install the lockwasher. The slotted part engages in the spindle and the guide pin should engage in one of the holes. If not, try flipping it over. If still a no-go, you may slightly tighten the nut enough until the pin engages a hole. Install the outer locknut and torque it to 150 lbs-ft.
 
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im talking bout replacing 4 bearings a $30 a pop every month to two months it sux.these are the instructions i follow. install the inner nut (the one with the guide pin). These nuts require a four-prong spanner type spindle nut wrench. Tighten the nut to 35 lbs-ft while rotating the hub to seat the bearing. Back the nut off 90 degrees (about 1/4-turn) Install the lockwasher. The slotted part engages in the spindle and the guide pin should engage in one of the holes. If not, try flipping it over. If still a no-go, you may slightly tighten the nut enough until the pin engages a hole. Install the outer locknut and torque it to 150 lbs-ft.
You're doing something wrong then... The inner nut should be hand tight (like 16 in-lbs is spec i think) and the outer nut should be over 200ft-lbs so it doesn't back off.
 
Yeah just like Hans said, the factory 150 ft/lbs spec isn't enough. I think most guys recommend 200 or 250 ftlbs to keep them tight. I think most TTBs that I have worked have had the outer lock nuts back out on them.
 
Don't back off a quarter turn. Zero them and back off to the nearest pin. Set the locknut and check for drag. If it's too tight back off one more pin. Timken bearings will eat themselves alive when either too tight or too loose.
 
that is the specs that came with the warn lock out kit
 
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so i guess if i call them and say hey your specs for the kit that you had engineers design is wrong i want my money back they should give it back then
 
No need to be cocky....The specs Warn has will work on a street driven truck on stock size tires, but when you start beating on things offroad and adding tires 2-3"s taller than intended you just have to compensate for it.

-andrew
 
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