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Safari Pacific MX2 Build


With the FlipPac installation finished, we took some photos with a Jeep Comanche and the MX2.

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After we were all done working on the camper, we started brain storming about my gear storage. He brought out a few of his composite drawers to use for a mockup.
His idea is to stagger the drawers using different depths to create steps up to the bed. Still in the idea stages for gear storage.

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i want that camper thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I didn't want to start on the rear bumper until the camper was fully installed, since I wanted to make everything the correct proportions. With the camper done I get started on the rear bumper.

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First I scrounge two scrap 1/4 inch plate pieces that have already been welded together. I drill holes to fit the stock bolting points.

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Next, I cut a piece of 3 x 2 square tubing to length and set in place.

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For alignment I use some clamps holding temporary braces.

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After tacking into place I weld on additional 1/4 plating.

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Once the main bumper portion is fully welded to the mounts I remove and begin boxing in all the corners with plating.

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To add support for the outer edges of the bumper I add 1 1/4 inch tubing to tie into the mounts.

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I bolt the bumper back onto the truck for the next phase.

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For the swing out section I opt for a two piece sleeve. The first piece is 1 1/4 inch round tubing notched at the end and welded onto the bumper.

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Next I mockup where all the gear will be and take measurements.

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The second piece is 1 1/2 inch round tubing slid over the 1 1/4 inch piece, cut to match. The two pieces form the hinge for the swing out, which has a very snug fit. Another 1 1/4 inch tube is cut and welded into place for the swing out's lower arm.

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At the end of the swing arm I create a support and clamping point. I use 1 1/2 inch tube cut in half for the support. This gives a small lip for the arm to test on, keeping the arm from swinging open.

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Next I bend the spare tire loop and cut to fit. I use a magnetic square to keep everything in pace.

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With a paper template I mark and cut a spare tire mounting plate.

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Then I drill out the holes and weld a piece of tubing on the back.

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After double checking my measurements I weld the spare mount into pace.

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Just a test fit I bolt the tire on the swing arm.

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The arm can swing 180 degrees without hitting the camper.

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Onto the remaining gear loop. I bend, cut then weld into place

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I completely spaced out at this point and forgot to take more photos. After the second loop was welded on I added a small hoop to hold two fuel cans. Then I created two tabs to hold my license place. Corbin of Zebra Sports also came over and have me a hand with making mounts for the hi lift jack and a few other tid bits.

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To keep things legal I had to install a license plate light. I search all over and find a small shop that makes custom LED lights.

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For latching the swing gate closed I used a cam latch. Same thing everyone uses for this. I found mine at Graingers for $20.


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I opted to weld the main latching portion onto the swing gate. I also paced it on an angle so the force would pull into the support evenly.
This also puts the handle higher and keeps anything from flipping it open on the trail.

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I decided to create a shelf that folds down from the rear bumper. Since I'll be cooking outside, this extra space will come in handy. First I pickup some hinges and stainless steel cable.

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Then I measure the area needed for the shelf and cut a piece of sheet steel.

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I notch the ends and bend all the edges 90 degrees.

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Next I mockup where the hinges should go for weight distribution then drill holes.

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The corners get welded and cleaned up.

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Small reinforcing strips are welded across the bottom side inline with the hinges.

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After cooling I bolt the hinges in pace, square the shelf up on the bumper then weld the other portion of the hinge in place.

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To hold the shelf in a level position I use the stainless steel cable. A small bolt is welded on the upper tubing on the swing gate. Another bolt is added at the shelf's far corners.

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For securing the shelf when stored away I pickup some small cam latches.

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I need a pace for the latches to grab on to, so I weld on a small piece of steel above the shelf.

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Another little piece is welded vertical giving the latch an edge to grab on to.

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Two of these are created then the latch body is screwed into place.

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Once completed, I take the shelf apart to be sand blasted.

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After cleaning a quick paint job is applied.

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The steel cable connections are backed with two washers and two nuts. This allows the cable to move a little when opening the closing the shelf.

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Strips of foam are added where the shelf will hit. This is to stop any rattling.

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