Running rich,code 14

[RustedRanger]

Once my truck warms up it runs really rich. It has 147,000 mi. I read the codes today and they are; 11,14,32 and 42. Once it gets warmed up it has an erractic idle and a very strong gas smell in the exhaust it doesn't die but sometimes it almost does it will run smooth then get rough and back and forth. I read in the tech library that code 14 could be the TFI or the ignition pickup. If the TFI is bad will it just die when its hot or can it still run like mine? Does it need a special wrench? Could the ignition pickup be bad and can it be changed without taking out the distributer? I changed the cap,rotor and wires but the rotor was defective so I put the old one back in but I noticed that both rotors were "loose" on the shaft,is this normal? I have driven this truck for a 1,000 miles now and I'm already on my second set of plugs and second oil change because of running rich. I can't afford to take it somewhere and I can't afford to keep throwing parts at it. Also is the "test wire" the single wire one supposed to be plugged back into the light grey connector? It was already unplugged when I messed with it to get the codes. Will the distributer come out without removing the upper intake? Thanks for your help. I also checked the Fuel pressure regulator for gas leaking and found none.

 

[IMenriched]

Once my truck warms up it runs really rich. It has 147,000 mi. I read the codes today and they are; 11,14,32 and 42. Once it gets warmed up it has an erractic idle and a very strong gas smell in the exhaust it doesn't die but sometimes it almost does it will run smooth then get rough and back and forth. I read in the tech library that code 14 could be the TFI or the ignition pickup. If the TFI is bad will it just die when its hot or can it still run like mine? Does it need a special wrench? Could the ignition pickup be bad and can it be changed without taking out the distributer? I changed the cap,rotor and wires but the rotor was defective so I put the old one back in but I noticed that both rotors were "loose" on the shaft,is this normal? I have driven this truck for a 1,000 miles now and I'm already on my second set of plugs and second oil change because of running rich. I can't afford to take it somewhere and I can't afford to keep throwing parts at it. Also is the "test wire" the single wire one supposed to be plugged back into the light grey connector? It was already unplugged when I messed with it to get the codes. Will the distributer come out without removing the upper intake? Thanks for your help. I also checked the Fuel pressure regulator for gas leaking and found none.

Yes it can be the TFI and yes a special ignition wrench is needed to remove it (< $10 at most parts stores). The shutting off after it is warm & restarting after it has cooled is classic TFI module problem. It (the TFI) does NOT need to have the whole distrbutor removed to change it.

yes it could be the pickup coil under or inside of the distributor ....no it can not be changed without removing the distributor from the engine. YEs it can come out without removing the upper intake & it is snug....but that said, there will be far more room with the upper intake off adn you'll be happer with it off. You'll need to remove the gear off the end of the shaft and then slide the shaft out of the housing...if my memory servse correct. BE Carefull with gear , don't marr it up or the shaft it goes on.

other things to concider the FPR....pull the little hose off the back side and if fuel dribbles out...the FPR is done. but getting fuel pressure readings is a better way to diagnose it.

also the coolant sensor, O2 sensor, EGR and MAP sensor all can play apart with over fueling issues.

with the EGR if your truck is pre-88' then you have a EGR...if it is 88' or later then you won't have a EGR valve... Now If someone has replaced your ECM (main engine computer) & you have a 88 or newer truck with a ECM from a 87 or older truck then it, the ECM, is looking for the EGR signal when there isn't any EGR. Clear as mud?? If evrything is correct correct ECM for vintage of truck then your EGR maybe a issue

seems like you on the right track.

 

[holyford86]

how are you getting a all systems pass code with codes? either you read the codes wrong or you aren't presenting them correctly.

 

[RustedRanger]

I did it several times following the instructions in the Haynes manual. I thought code 11 meant that the system is working(to give codes). I checked them 3 times and they came out the same. Does the single wire test plug need plugged back in?

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Yes it can be the TFI and yes a special ignition wrench is needed to remove it (< $10 at most parts stores). The shutting off after it is warm & restarting after it has cooled is classic TFI module problem. It (the TFI) does NOT need to have the whole distrbutor removed to change it.

yes it could be the pickup coil under or inside of the distributor ....no it can not be changed without removing the distributor from the engine. YEs it can come out without removing the upper intake & it is snug....but that said, there will be far more room with the upper intake off adn you'll be happer with it off. You'll need to remove the gear off the end of the shaft and then slide the shaft out of the housing...if my memory servse correct. BE Carefull with gear , don't marr it up or the shaft it goes on.

other things to concider the FPR....pull the little hose off the back side and if fuel dribbles out...the FPR is done. but getting fuel pressure readings is a better way to diagnose it.

also the coolant sensor, O2 sensor, EGR and MAP sensor all can play apart with over fueling issues.

with the EGR if your truck is pre-88' then you have a EGR...if it is 88' or later then you won't have a EGR valve... Now If someone has replaced your ECM (main engine computer) & you have a 88 or newer truck with a ECM from a 87 or older truck then it, the ECM, is looking for the EGR signal when there isn't any EGR. Clear as mud?? If evrything is correct correct ECM for vintage of truck then your EGR maybe a issue

seems like you on the right track.

What is FPR? and the TFI, where is that. Any pictures available? thx

 

[RustedRanger]

FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator TFI=Thick Film Ignition=Ignition module. Most of the auto parts websites have pictures of the parts if you can't find one here in the arcives or tech section. I got a new TFI today and hope to put it in tomorrow. I did pull the vacume line off the FPR but no fuel ran out. I don't have a gauge to check fuel pressure and really can't afford one or to take it somewhere.

 

[holyford86]

code #14, ignition signal erratic can have nothing to do with the tfi module. If the IDM resistor is bad it will throw that code and make it run like crap. The IDM resistor is in the general vicinity of the power steering pump in the main wiring harness it will be a little tan block in a green wire. it should be around 22k ohms if its good, if its way off then just go to radioshack and get a 22k ohm resistor in the highest wattage rating that you can, 1/2 watt is plenty. SOLDER it in and shrinkwrap the whole thing, make sure you clip a small pair of pliers on the lead out of the resistor and before where you are soldering so you don't burn the resistor up with the heat.

code #32 is an EGR code, pull the vacuum line off the EGR valve while you idle the engine and feel for vacuum, if there is vacuum in there then you probably have a bad EVR (trace the tube from the valve back to where it came from, the other thing it connects to is the EVR, it has two wires and two vacuum lines coming out of it.

code #42 basically tells you that the engine is running rich and has reached its adaptive limit to lean it out or the o2 sensor may be bad or the wiring to it may be bad. Inspect the wiring and test the o2 sensor.

 

[RustedRanger]

Changed the TFI today. It runs better,smoother but still rich at idle. I took it for a drive and it ran decent but when I put it in reverse to back into the garage it started running horrible and ran bad enough it almost died. Started it again and it was back to "normal". I think I killed my new O2 sensor I put it when I cleaned the IAC and killed the plugs and ran horribly rich until I changed them. The EGR vacuum line had no vacuum at idle so I took it off to see how dirty it was....the bolts pulled out the first few threads and dragged them through the rest stuck to the bolts. Half of the lower section where the bolt goes into the intake broke off. It still had enough threads to get it back on but I heard another snap when I tightened it. If someone wanted to leave the EGR off and block off the hole would it hurt anything? What will it hurt if the EGR is bad?

 

[holyford86]

if you take the egr system off the engine will run like crap with the 87 computer. Later 2.9s didnt have egr, swap to an 88+ computer and rob the egr blockoff plate off the same motor.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

FPR=Fuel Pressure Regulator TFI=Thick Film Ignition=Ignition module. Most of the auto parts websites have pictures of the parts if you can't find one here in the arcives or tech section. I got a new TFI today and hope to put it in tomorrow. I did pull the vacume line off the FPR but no fuel ran out. I don't have a gauge to check fuel pressure and really can't afford one or to take it somewhere.

ok, so i think my fuel pressure is ok, but my tfi/ ignition module which i just repllaced with a junkyard special may not function like i would prefer...
.

code #14, ignition signal erratic can have nothing to do with the tfi module. If the IDM resistor is bad it will throw that code and make it run like crap. The IDM resistor is in the general vicinity of the power steering pump in the main wiring harness it will be a little tan block in a green wire. it should be around 22k ohms if its good, if its way off then just go to radioshack and get a 22k ohm resistor in the highest wattage rating that you can, 1/2 watt is plenty. SOLDER it in and shrinkwrap the whole thing, make sure you clip a small pair of pliers on the lead out of the resistor and before where you are soldering so you don't burn the resistor up with the heat.

code #32 is an EGR code, pull the vacuum line off the EGR valve while you idle the engine and feel for vacuum, if there is vacuum in there then you probably have a bad EVR (trace the tube from the valve back to where it came from, the other thing it connects to is the EVR, it has two wires and two vacuum lines coming out of it.

code #42 basically tells you that the engine is running rich and has reached its adaptive limit to lean it out or the o2 sensor may be bad or the wiring to it may be bad. Inspect the wiring and test the o2 sensor.

IDM is what? and say i had a mp 1 redline power chip which im informed is a resistor, could i use this?
Also can you gimme a step by step on how to check ohms?