Running out of Ideas....

[Steeda04SVT]

Getting pissed off because stuff isn't working after I throw parts at it.




Problem #1 Rear Anti-lock light keeps coming on. I've thrown a new RABS Sensor, ABS Control Module and RABS Proportioning Valve and have bled the hell out of the brakes so I know it's got new fluid running through the system. But still the light comes on at 40mph.

Problem #2 Troubleshoot the Transfer Case Control Module like some of you guys on here told me to and the lil red LED light didn't flash like it was supposed to letting you know the system is fine. The Push Button 4x4 has been replaced twice just in case it was a fluke and the switch was bad and still no 4x4. Now I'm wondering if the shift motor is FUBAR considering I can hear my t-case falling apart from the inside since now I can hear grinding in it when I drive it.

So my question is, would the t-case shift motor also prevent from any indication at all in the cab about the 4x4?

Thanks to whoever can help. I'm on my last nerve with this truck and patience is wearing real thin.

 

[Snoranger]

Solution to problem #2:

 

[wrecking-crew]

My friend has the ABS light problem. But I think his is because it lacks a rear with ABS. If you have a BRAKE light on too, you may need a new brake fluid level sender and/or master cylinder. (don't know if you can get them separate.)

 

[4.0B2]

i bypasses my ABS... and it cured the light and i have better brakes.

 

[gribly]

Why would you replace the buttons for the 4wd twice? Come on man, that is not troubleshooting properly. If you were to use the search function you might find a little info about the system, and realize that almost nobody has trouble with the buttons. First, there are quite a few fuses before power even makes it's way to the electronic 4x4 setup, check those first. It sounds like the whole thing isn't getting power. Have you even tried using a voltmeter to see if there is even power at the control module?

 

[gribly]

Oh, and just forget about the rear abs, you don't need it in a BII. Mine doesn't work on my Navajo.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

My friend has the ABS light problem. But I think his is because it lacks a rear with ABS. If you have a BRAKE light on too, you may need a new brake fluid level sender and/or master cylinder. (don't know if you can get them separate.)

Brake light isn't on. I made sure it has fluid. When I first got the truck. The light never came on until a few months later. So I dunno what's up.

i bypasses my ABS... and it cured the light and i have better brakes.

How did you bypass it?

Oh, and just forget about the rear abs, you don't need it in a BII. Mine doesn't work on my Navajo.

Yeah I'm debating on just pulling the bulb out so it stops lightning up after 40mph.

 

[4.0B2]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273757
this is a decent option if you have $300 laying around and don't wanna try to find the mystical almost nonexistence figure of a 1354M

and to bypass it,
i could type it out... or you could search... lol
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49814&highlight=RABS+Valve

check that one out, and search bypass abs in the search bar, you'll find more info probably

 

[BlackBII]

Problem 1 - Take out the lightbulb

Problem 2 - Get a manual case, OR, take the motor off and test it, then work your way up to the switch.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Problem 1 - Take out the lightbulb

Problem 2 - Get a manual case, OR, take the motor off and test it, then work your way up to the switch.

Yeah I'm bout to pull the t-case in a bit. Got another t-case on the way since mine is making all sorts of sounds that don't sound like a happy t-case.

 

[gribly]

While you have a chance, take the shift motor apart. Inside the worm drive box there is a big gear, on the other side of this gear is a little nub with a plastic stopper. The stopper will probably be broken, I replaced mine with a zip-tie around the nub. Most common failure point and reason for the transfer case to not shift. What happens is there is a whole array of points and contacts on the topside of that gear, as it turns it opens and closes different connections with allow the module to know what position the motor is in, and allow the 4x4 lights to work. The cover for the case has the contacts attached to it, and you can clock the case one way or another to change the position the module sees. If the case is clocked wrong, it can break the plastic stopper and allow the gear to turn so far the worm drive jams itself into the case and locks up. When this happens all you get is clicks when you hit the 4x4 button as the relays struggle with the motor. Even if your 4x4 works I recommend replacing the stopper with something more rugged, and I recommend cycling the motor back and forth (using the 4x4 buttons while it's hooked up, but not bolted to the case) and checking to see just where the gear is stopping for 2wd. It should just barely let the nub hit the stop in the case, and not put any pressure on it. Mark where the screw heads contact the cover before you take it apart, though. If I remember correctly, a couple degrees counter-clockwise of the factory location on mine was the sweet spot. With it properly adjusted, the push-button 4x4 actually works great. I have no intention of swapping to a manual t-case unless it's one from a full-size truck since the electric ones are cheaper and easier to find since people give up on them so easily.

I wrote this up for you so you have a little more knowledge on the 4x4, I don't think this is what is actually wrong with yours, I still think that from your description (nothing happens at all) that it's not getting power.

 

[Steeda04SVT]

Thank you for the info. Gonna try to tackle it this week.