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Rough running 2.9


Racenut

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
51
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
Yes, a r0ugh running 2.9. I got an 87 b2 2.9 5speed 4x4 for my father n law. He owned it for 5 years. But for the last year. It sat because of a bad fuel pump. We changed both pumps, new tank, filters, and fuel reg. That got her running agine.

BUT, it boggs and hesitates till about 2000 rpms. And just runs alil rough. While he had it. He replaced the tfi, map, cap rotor, plugs, wires. But that was b4 it sat. I get it, and I have replaced the cap and rotor, plugs, o2, coil. It is still running bad and bogging. I got a code reader. All I get is an 11, witch means all is good. I have from time to time gotten a 33. Witch is the egr.

I dont know where to go from hear. And now, after some rain. It is running even worse. I have not replaced the wires. But I did swap some out with an older set that he had. No diff.

And I did check the timeing. At 10 to 12. It runs bad. At 18, yes 18. It runs alil better. But just alil. No pinging at 18 ether.
 
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is the timing advancing when the SPOUT is in? have you checked the actual fuel pressure? were you able to do a KOER test with your scanner?
 
Yes. I did remove the spout when timeing it. And replaced it after. And it is advancing. I have not checked fuel pressure yet. I will have to do a loan a tool, as I do not have that setup. And I did both KOEO, and KOER test.
 
It sure reads like a mixture issue, a lean mixture issue, to me that would mean too much air.
i.e. running better above 2,000rpm
I would check for air/vacuum leaks, I would remove each vacuum line and suck or blow on it, lol, yes the scientific method.
Don't forget the power brake line, if so equipped.

The fuel pressure regulator can also be a trouble spot so check that vacuum line, if it smells like gas then regulators diaphragm is leaking so raw fuel is being sucked into the intake.
You don't mention too much exhaust smoke at idle which you would have if running rich.

The original OBD didn't have a lot of checks

The distributor sets spark timing using a hall effect sensor, this can be as sensitive as points in its gap, check distributor shaft for wobble and sensor gap
 
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Ok so I tryed a diff computer. Just to rule that out. And no diff. I do get some white smoke on start up. That mostly goes away after warm up. And with the smoke I also have some water comeing out the tail pipe. But nothing n my oil. And not running hot. Blown headgasket?

I have a ticking injector also . And I am running gutted cats.
 
Ok so I tryed a diff computer. Just to rule that out. And no diff. I do get some white smoke on start up. That mostly goes away after warm up. And with the smoke I also have some water comeing out the tail pipe. But nothing n my oil. And not running hot. Blown headgasket?

I have a ticking injector also . And I am running gutted cats.


Pretty much normal. White smoke on start up on older engines with water coming out the tail pipe? Just condensation. You'll know really fast if the head gasket is blown or something is cracked. It will look like a fog machine going down the road.

To be sure? Pull the plugs one at a time and see if any appear to be "steam cleaned". That's a sign of a leak into the cylinder.

Just an idea. Injector 'tick' is very normal. One thing that I suspect could happen? Is that your fuel injector's could be bunged up with rust and crud. Now this is only a guess--- You can pull the upper air plenum and then pull the injector 'rail'. From there you can remove the injectors and inspect the inlet port. If they are clogged up with crud and rust? It will need to be serviced. I got my kit off eBay. Included new mesh filters and o-rings. It's a time taking pain in the butt job...but it just might be the cause of your problems. At the same time if you find a lot of crap in the injector rail? Remove the injectors and blow the thing out with carb spray and then compressed air. Worse case is that it won't solve the problem--and you'll be out the gasket (don't buy it at NAPA for the plenum...they have it priced wrong). And an o-ring set.

You're working on a fuel system...so use extra care...and DON'T nick the o-rings.

S-
 
ive had distributor caps that cause similar issues, even brand new ones. symptoms get worse in humid weather and rain as well. it might not be your problem but at this point its worth checking i think. i would ONLY use a distributor cap with brass contacts. IIRC, the last one i got was accel brand.
 
If it had an egr. Code that would definately cause it to run bad esp at lower rpm. Have u noticed any smoke possibly black while drivein? The egr system on these can be very tempermental. It could simply be a bad coolant sensor of bad conection. This would let the ecu believe it was in startup mode or warmup. I forget if its open loop or called closed loop. Anyhow dumpin more full in. Which would run rich. Anhow just a few ideas
 
So I pulled the upper intake so I could pull the injectors. The injectors looked to b amost fully blocked up. Looked like rust n gunk. The fuel rail had gunk n it also. I sprayed carb cleaner in it fuel rail, was comeing out brown. The lil filter fell apart when I tryed to pull them. Alot of the screan is inside. So I am ordering some remans off of ebay for $90 for all 6.

So Maybe I have found my problem!!!! We will c.
 
Well it was my injectors!!! I put the remans n. And it runs Great!!!! She was starving for fuel.
 
I would get the rail cleaned out really well since that was probably the root cause. They are known for corroding and crapping up the injectors like that.
 
Glad to see it's worked out. I had the guy at our local salvage yard actually tell me "I've never seen the injectors cause your problem". I figured he knew what he was talking about sense he deals with nothing but used parts all day long.

So when I pulled mine apart and rebuilt my injectors with the new filters and blew out all the crude as adsm mentions? It cured the problem. Lesson learned. Even a so-called expert doesn't know everything. It's up to us to learn and gain knowledge and pass it along.

Again, glad it worked out!!

S-
 
I tryed changing them without pulling the upper intake, that wasn't happening!! So I pulled the upper intake. And It was alot ezer. And I also put on a new drivers side valve cover gasket. I need to nut and bolt it one more time b4 I drive it. But I am very happy!!! I was just about to give up on it. And I cleaned the fuel rail out really good with carb cleaner. And the same with the upper intake
 
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