Rough idle, runs rich, poor gas mileage, engine code

[creyc]

I have a '94 Ranger, 2.3L with about 175,000 mi. When I start the truck up it runs okay for a few seconds before dropping down to a lower, rough idle speed. It also throws an engine code at this point "coil circuit failure on cylinders 1, 2, 3 or 4".

Gas mileage is low, and it smells very rich. I've replaced coil packs and spark plug wires hoping to clear the engine code. I also tried cleaning and re-mounting the ICM, with no effect.

What's next, new ECM and ICM units? I don't want to throw a lot of money at this truck, it has a few other problems as well.

 

[BobbyB2300]

Bump

 

[V8_power428@hotmail.com]

check your cap and rotor, chuck your O2 sensor get a new one

 

[djschick88]

mine is doing the same thing but i have been pulling codes saying "EGR" is out and i have replaced it but the ECL still comes back on!

I have also been told to check the fuel filter to see if its clogged but i need a weekend to look at it. if i find anything that works ill let ya know.

 

[BobbyB2300]

Before you spend any money...try cleaning your negative battery cable at the engine block and battery posts. Let us know if this does any good. I think some auto parts stores will test the ICM, it very well might be bad. I wouldn't suspect the compter at this point.

 

[djschick88]

well i found out what was wrong with mine. I checked the EGR and the gasket had somehow covered the hole by about 50% i have no idea if this is also your problem or not but it was free to check and it fixed my truck back to perfect.

 

[creyc]

Ground is definitely good. I'm a car stereo guy and have quite a few 1/0 gauge runs to the batt/alt body and various places on the chassis.

For the heck of it I decided to diagnose my own codes by just grounding the input pin, and got an oxygen sensor error. Replaced that, then got a 117 engine coolant temp sensor bad. Put in a new one tonight, warmed it up for 10 minutes and then got 1-1-1, all clear.

Then I turned it off, removed the ground from the input pin and fired it up only to get a check engine light again. I tested again, 111, even tried "clearing" codes by pulling the input-pin-ground during the test procedure but still it comes on. After performing the code test, with the engine still running, after i remove the input pin the idle slows down and gets rough and the light comes on. I don't understand why

I'll have to see if gas mileage or rich smell improves.

 

[Joelzme]

Did you ever fix this? Mine is doing the exact same thing. No CEL because I have cleared them all. Was wondering if you had a fix?

Joel

 

[BobbyB2300]

There seems to be no magic bullet fix for this. Some people replace Ignition Control Module, some replace Electronic Engine Control Module(computer), some replace both. But all of them, never come back with a magic bullet solution. The veterans don't touch this one either. It's an ignition system problem for sure, not an EGR system problem. The DIS(ICM) module and the computer are not dancing, the result is the computer protects itself by shuting down and assumes its default state.

As common as this problem is, I can't believe there's not more posted on the subject.

For many, cleaning and grounding the ICM reduces the symptoms but does not absolutely cure.

OK, everybody run now, code 224 is rearing its ugly head again.

 

[Joelzme]

UGH, I have grounded the ICM but that is not helping me either. It has now become and everyday problem for me and I'll stall at just about every traffic light, runs great at highway speeds tho. Going to take it to ford when I have the $ and see what they say.....


Very frustrating.

 

[BARanger]

i had a issue like this on my ranger. don't remember the code but it was a coil circut fault
found 1 and 3 cylinder to have weak spark. found that it was a problem with the icm the one that sits on the intake. the grounding driver for that coil had high resistance. check

to see if you have a weak spark if you do check to see if you have battery voltage at coil check continuity ont he wires from coil to icm if good most likely it the icm i got
one from the junk jard for $50

 

[BobbyB2300]

I'm seeing the same thing as Joel, the fault happens at deceleration...a stop light, an off-ramp. When you decelerate, you get the fault.

I think Joelz problem might be compounded with an EGR or MAF problem, I suspect Joelz also experiences a bucking/jerking at times which is an EGR problem.

Sooooo, what are the voltage dynamics involved with decerleration? Loss of voltage/amps? Could this problem be a manifistation of a charging system out of specifection?

Could the problem be I'm a total moron?

By the way I have replaced everything you can replace except the CrankShaft Sensor and the Computer on my 94 2.3L...oh, and the cigarette lighter, which I use constantly.

 

[Mark_88]

I would suspect the MAF personally...

As a side note, I read somewhere that a faulty circuit in the cigarette lighter can cause problems (in the Ford Tempo and similar models)...I ended up disconnecting my lighter when I was having problems similar to the above...only to find out that it was actually the MAF...

The dealership wanted $100+ for a new one...went to the junkyard and picked up two for five bucks...worked fine after I changed the first one...

 

[ranger_mclaren]

head problems

i was having same problem with mine the it gas was extremly bad and the more i drove it the worst the power got i could go any higher than 3rd gear to keep it above 55mph i tried replacing the dristibuter and coil adjusting timing and it just got worse finlly one my way to work something broke and it sound like a lawn mower and didn't go any faster than one either i tore the valve cover off and one of the followers on the forth piston fell out the the cam looked like crap so i bought a head rebuild kit (cam, lifters, followers, and a bottle of lube) it was suprizingly cheap too $117.00 and now the truck runs unbelivably well better than when i bought it 5 yrs ago better milage too. so u could look into that it may be slowly getting a wore out cam.
(sorry 4 the book!!)

 

[Joelzme]

My problem is exactly this:

From a cold start she runs like a champ, then as she idle's down she gets a little rougher. When it appears that she is at temperature (around 3-4 minutes) she hits a wall and idles to 400 rpm, almost stalling out. From then on, if she is at idle she's very rough. Even pushing in the clutch at a stop light almost stalls her out. She smells rich. Feathering the gas keeps her from stalling.

I have no code in KOEO, KOER, or in continuous memory. (used to have EGR codes, but changed the DPFE senor and that repaired it.)

I have replaced:
ICM (last week so I know it's not that), added a ground wire too.
Wires, plugs
PCV Valve
DPFE sensor
Oil
Fuel Filter
Fuel pump
Air Filter
Cleaned MAF

When I pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator it seems to gain about 200-300 rpm and she does not exhibit the problem.

As I said, as soon as I get the $ going to take to ford for a diagnostic.