Rough idle, runs rich, poor gas mileage, engine code

[BobbyB2300]

Replace the Air Charge Sensor(air temp sensor about 5 bucks) located in the air filter box and replace the Intake Air Contol valve(IAC). It still could be EGR problem...the solenoid and/or the EGR valve itself. There are three components to the EGR system, you have replaced one. Plug the EGR valve vacuum and see if RPM's stabilize, that will help with the diagnosis. Make sure the DPFE hoses are not melted.

 

[Joelzme]

Bobby,

Thanks for the suggestions. I will replace the air temp sensor today. I have pulled the IAC and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I also tested resistance on the sensor and it showed as being within range. When pulling the vac line off the EGR valve it does not run any better. It's possible it could be the EGR position sensor too tho so I think I might just pick one of those up too.

I have sprayed carb cleaner on the vac lines to check for leaks and they don't seem to be leaking, but I'll check them again.

 

[Jason]

Check the wiring that connects the ICM to the ECM. Wiring problems are very common but often ignored or never properly diagnosed.

 

[Joelzme]

Jason, will do. I guess I would have to completely expose the wire here all the way back to the ECM? It's still wrapped in the original hose.

 

[Buckeyes903]

bump for similar problem.

Any updates on your truck Joelzme?

 

[tylerh]

just had that issue on my 96 after i did a 2.5 swap (shouldnt have done it but that another thread) was idleing high then low then it was fine until i came to a stop light the it would dive to about 300-350 rpm the batt and oil guages would dance for a bit untill i gave it a bit off gas

the fix for me was a new MAF and IAC BUT CHECK FOR VAC LEAKS FIRST

 

[Bryan22]

you also might check that the EGr valve is not stuck partially opened. I had a similar problem. To test hook a vacum pump to the EGR valve and pump it up to 10 pounds, if the idle dosen't change it's not functioning properly. If it is funcioning and the truck is allready idling rough, putting vaccum on the valve should kill the truck.

 

[Hamrdown]

I know this is an old thread but it is a highly searched problem with hardly any feedback. I had exactly, to a tee, the same problem that the op had. I've got a '94 ranger 2.3 (non California model) w/ a manual trans. I chased the service code 224 gremlin hard for months. Replaced plugs, wires, timing belt, coil packs (I had 1 that tested bad), O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF, changed the IAT sensor & Coolant Temp Sensor, fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump, the ignition control module (tested bad but when replaced the truck still ran the same). Then I finally started checking grounds and added a ground from one of the I.C.M. Bolts directly to the ground on the battery with no changes. So I finally bit the bullet and broke out my sevice manual, turned to the wiring schematics, and pulled the harness from the ECU. From there I tested continuity from the ECU harness connector to the ICM harness. Then from there to the coil packs. And low and behold, there being all sneaky, was one of the pins on the front coil pack harness that had backed itself out ever so slightly. It wasn't making any contact but was barley pushed out enough that it wasn't obvious either. Once I pushed it back in & made sure it connected to the coil pack everything was fixed. No more service engine light, no more dying after a few minutes. The truck runs great now! My guess is that when either changing coil packs or testing somehow it worked it's way out. This may not be the op's fix but it definately worked for me and I had the exact same problems as him and many others have had. I hope this helps someone as it nearly drove me crazy trying to track this issue down. Good luck!

 

[LVRC]

Hi just went thru all this crap with coil paks icu and whatever seems there is a wire leading to the crankshaft position sensor that can chafe at the timing cover causing it to go bad. replaced mine now runs like a champ and I had the same code (224) on for weeks now its gone hope this helps LVRC

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I just have to ask if you erased the memory and reset the computer. Run the KOEO test and when it starts giving you codes stop the test that will erase the memory. Then disconnect the batt for at least 1/2 an hour to reset the computer. Then run it for 20 minutes at medium speeds and while it is hot and run the codes again.

 

[nightsurfride]

I was recently working on a '94 Ranger 2.3L, manual trans, CA emissions, with very similar symptoms as described by others here in this thread, and had the 224 code and a 211 code (profile ignition pickup circuit malfunction). I found that the front set of coils that sends spark to the wires going to the intake side spark plugs were only sending spark to the number 4 spark plug wire. 1, 2, and 3, had no spark what so ever coming out of the coil assembly. The engine was basically running off the exhaust side spark plugs only. I replaced the front coil assembly, and still no spark came from 1, 2, 3, terminals. I then replaced the ignition control modual (icm) and now have spark to all spark plug wires. The check engine light does not come on after start up now and the engine now runs normal at this time. Hope this helps someone.

 

[keeno]

Where is the ICM on a 94 2.3 ? What does it look like? I have this exact problem also..I also notice when it stumbles at idle, the amp gauge will peg for a split second. I have an off and on CEL and ABS light goes off and on...I have no idea how to check the CEL on a OBD1 car.

 

[drgrcr]

some more of the same

I too am working on a 94 Ranger 2.3 with the same problem, this truck sets a 218 and 998 code. Sounds like it may be a wiring problem...?