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Rolled it..


Jim2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Messages
85
City
Honolulu HI
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I went out to the track last weekend... truck was running pretty good too.. but I never did get around to lowering the rear end ...

So anyways, we came around a bend a little too fast. We were about to make a pass, but then.. bang.

We didn't get hurt at all, except for a small scape on the back of my buddy's right hand (we came down on his side). I'm glad he knew enough to get away from the window.. I didn't get a single scratch myself, helmets and seatbelts work real good. :icon_thumby:

We came out of it with the rubber side down, so I thought we would still be good to go.. But when I stepped on the gas, the throttle stuck. The linkage on the throttle body got bent. It started screaming so I shut it down... It wasn't until I got out that I realized the full extent of the damage. The cab is totaled and the radiator was bent over the fan.

The next day, we got the radiator out and fired it up. The old Ranger still runs fine. :D ... drove it around a little, the driveline seems like it's still good too.. so now I'm looking for a replacement cab.

Does anyone know how many years the frame stayed the same?
..Mine is an '88, but I don't care about an exact match... as long as the mounting points are the same. ... or at least close..

We had the camera running at the time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0YsAfvC2Zw&list=UUhksw_0R6R9tsyCKMwPkp7A&index=1&feature=plcp

The camera guys at the track caught it too. It's @ 2:57 in this vid..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5nbYwQTNIM&feature=em-uploademail

The cab is already at the scrapyard... it's time for a roll cage, but I gotta have the body panels to run it.

IMG_2056.jpg
 
Damn! A new body and you are all set!:icon_surprised:
 
Sorry you wrecked it! But man that looks like fun. What kind of race is that?

Yeah man, it's a blast! No driveways, intersections, nor tickets.. it's great! :D

It's called "Hula-Cross".. It's a small rally track. There's a few jumps, a few hairpin turns, some mud, etc.. That spot where I rolled it was the fastest part of the track that day.The track changes each month, so it's never the same twice...

It's still a grass roots operation over there. This is only the second season. We lost our old "Hawaii Raceway Park" years ago (the lease ran out).. That track had a dirt oval and a dragstrip. This track... well, let me just say that they're still saving up for asphalt. ... but a new dirt oval is already in the works :D
 
Does anyone know how many years the frame stayed the same?
..Mine is an '88, but I don't care about an exact match... as long as the mounting points are the same. ... or at least close..

...I need a new cab.. the easier it is to install, the better..
We can fabricate some, but I'd rather have something that will bolt right up.. or with minimal mods..?

IMG_2070.jpg
 
...I need a new cab.. the easier it is to install, the better..
We can fabricate some, but I'd rather have something that will bolt right up.. or with minimal mods..?

first or second gen should drop right on. i think even 3rd gen would be the same body mount locations but i dont know for sure.
 
first or second gen should drop right on. i think even 3rd gen would be the same body mount locations but i dont know for sure.

Right on, a little bit of mods is ok too.. I'm just trying to find the info for the craigslist ads.. or the auction..

My main concern is the floorpan of the cab... if that part fits, the rest is minor.. even a Bronco II or an Explorer would be something to consider .. if the floor fits... ?
 
I'd "OUCH!"

The worst thing you can do when rolling your truck is get your hand between the roll cage and the roof.

a friend did that once, didn't actually break any bones, but he nearly lost figers anyway after it took the track safety people nearly 25minutes to get him loose...


And yeah any first or second gen cab will bolt right on.

AD
 
I'd "OUCH!"

The worst thing you can do when rolling your truck is get your hand between the roll cage and the roof. ...

AD

I'm so glad that Willy was the passenger for that... it coulda been so much worse....

The back of Willy's hand was on the window when it broke.... but he pulled it away quick... then he grabbed the front of the seat... and then we wound up on the wheels.

He was laughing so hard, I didn't even think to ask if he was alright.

When I finally asked, he showed me the back or his hand and said, "... my cat scratched me worse that that!"
LMAO! Good answer!:icon_hornsup:
 
I thought ya'll were gonna make it thru in the 2nd foll-over video ;missingteeth;
 
I did the same in my truck. it's amazing how fast it happens. I found out afterwards why the body is welded to the cage in as many places as possible: in order to prevent excessive body damage. Then it can be as simple as removing unwanted oil in the cylinders, topping up and carrying on. When I had my cage built I was trying for as light as possible so didn't weld the roof, A- and B-pillars to the cage. Once my repairs are complete I will be doing so, that should make it much easier for future repairs. In my series all window glass is removed and window nets replace them. AllenD brings up a point that I'd never considered and will make sure that there is no points where a hand can get squished, and will provide a chicken bar for passengers to hold onto. My main cage hoop is constructed outside the cab as I have a reg. cab, personally I think the door bars are overkill at the speeds we are achieving [55mph] but thems de rools;

worktruck287.jpg


Another thing to do before the cage is installed is sandblast and paint the frame. The cage builder can remove paint where he needs to. Also get the most rust free body you can find, its much easier than welding in patch panels around a cage. Solid mount the body as low as possible, remembering that you will need access to the tranny and t-case [if installed]


Good luck,

Richard
 
Thanks for the details Richard. :icon_cheers:

That's a nice roll cage you got on there. I've been looking into making the cage, and there's some good points made by Allen and yourself... My buddy has a good welding machine, so mine will be a DIY cage. We have until the end of next month to get it sorted out. Money is gonna be tight though, and I'm not sure how it will all pan out yet..

If I manage to find a cab that will bolt right up, that'll be the simplest route.. It'll still count as "stock" like that, and there's not too many safety rules in the stock category (roll cage is optional). As a stocker, all I really have to do is secure the battery and roll the windows all the way up (or window nets). Also gotta have seatbelts, helmets, long sleeves, long pants, and covered toe shoes.. and that's about it.
(* gloves and a fire extinguisher are highly recommended, but not mandatory.)

But if I can get a roll cage on there, then I can start to do some mods. There's no restrictions on the modifieds, but you need a roll cage and 5 point harness in that category. A single hoop and two kickers is the minimum requirement, but I'd like to make a full cage if I can.

With a cage, I can put the radiator in the back with an electric fan... cut all the extra sheetmetal out of the cab and bed, and just hang the outer panels on the cage... etc..

My buddy is even trying to talk me into moving the engine back 10 inches.. we already looked at it, and if it goes back that far, it'll also be able to sit lower. ...That sounds great, but it's a daunting task. I just don't think I'll be able to get it done in time for the next race.

We were already running some competitive lap times, even with the jacked up rear end and beat shocks.. the Ranger is a fast chassis! We were pulling away from one of the Subarus, and those Suby's are the fastest guys out there. I don't think I need to move the engine to get a win... just gotta lower it and get some good shocks.. the little 2.9 has plenty power for this track. :icon_thumby:
 
the stocker sounds like where the fun is at. once you start running modified, you get in a money competition. eff that.
 

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