Rick's Rangerz 3 Link Kit - has anyone used one?

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I'm with you on that, but I'm not sure why you want to tear up his yard when there's perfectly good asphalt out front.

We got beef so old it's jerky by now.

If you aren't in one of the use cases where a watts link really shines, it hardly seems worth the effort.

If I were doing a Ranger build with a bolt in link setup and keeping the stock tank, I wouldn;t hesitate ro run Rick's 3-link. If I were ditching the stock tank, as I might if I build the 86, his triangulated 4-link would probably be my first choice and the 3-link a close second.

Stock tank is a keeper... too small as-is, don't want to go smaller, and definitely don't want a fuel cell.

Bags seem like a lot of hassle as well. But this isn't about bag lamentations.

The three link seems reasonable the more I look at it. It just feels "off" that there's not more holding the axle in the truck. Side-to-side location has been an issue for me with the current setup, but I'm guessing it's either in my head, or because I'm on tall leaf springs. Unsure.

 

[superj]

Could you give me a shout when he posts about the 4 link stuff? I am not allowed back on Meta apps.

His page doesn't show anything is out of stock. Is that what you mean? Here is his shop address.and website, if you happen to be near that area.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

We got beef so old it's jerky by now.



Stock tank is a keeper... too small as-is, don't want to go smaller, and definitely don't want a fuel cell.

Bags seem like a lot of hassle as well. But this isn't about bag lamentations.

The three link seems reasonable the more I look at it. It just feels "off" that there's not more holding the axle in the truck. Side-to-side location has been an issue for me with the current setup, but I'm guessing it's either in my head, or because I'm on tall leaf springs. Unsure.

This is what I was wondering too. Rubber or harder type bushings are still going to have give. But how much? Or are the bushings metal? I didn't see any mention about bushing material when I looked at the linked site.
Probably no worse than leafs and rubber bushings, and maybe better...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

@alwaysFlOoReD, I'm really not seeing how a tie rod would make that work. Most of them use a heim joint which operates about the same as a TRE, just with a bolt instead of a stud. If you come up with a model that seems to work, please share.

So I did some digging. My idea would work but I think I found out why it's not used. It's to do with roll centers and my idea would place the pivot well above the roll center. This observation is based from the link which is from 1971 technology, but should still apply.
See pic and link.

Watt’s Linkage

A Watt’s Linkage was designed and fabricated as part of the 1970-71 conversion to a race car. The attached Concept Sketch, drawn in 1971, shows many design details. The vertical link consists of tw…

1958morgan.wordpress.com

 

[JoshT]

Ok, I think I see what you were meaning by horizontal now. I was thinking about rotating the bellcrank 90° about it's axis from the normal (from | to --), where the arms of the bellcrank were in line with the axle tube when at rest. I now think you were referring to the bellcrank being laid over horizontally above or below the differential with the arms still perpendicular to the axle (or in line with the driveshaft). Yes, that configuration should work for centering.

I'm not sure about the range of motion the joints ould have to accomidate in that configuration. With the bellcrank located vertically behind the axle the joints would primarily pivot around one axis. If located horizontally each joint would have to move on multiple axis. I suppose it wouldn't be much more range of motion than a TRE normally sees.

Don't ask me about how a watts link plays with or relates to roll center and other suspension geometries. I'm mostly familiar with it's usage vs a panhard bar for suspension that has requires a large amount of travel, and that is from reading not doing. Namely they allow for a lot of travel without inducing lateral movement. From the reading I've done on it, outside of a rather extreme performance application, they seem to be very forgiving on the design and location.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Ok, I think I see what you were meaning by horizontal now. I was thinking about rotating the bellcrank 90° about it's axis from the normal (from | to --), where the arms of the bellcrank were in line with the axle tube when at rest. I now think you were referring to the bellcrank being laid over horizontally above or below the differential with the arms still perpendicular to the axle (or in line with the driveshaft). Yes, that configuration should work for centering.

I'm not sure about the range of motion the joints ould have to accomidate in that configuration. With the bellcrank located vertically behind the axle the joints would primarily pivot around one axis. If located horizontally each joint would have to move on multiple axis. I suppose it wouldn't be much more range of motion than a TRE normally sees.

Don't ask me about how a watts link plays with or relates to roll center and other suspension geometries. I'm mostly familiar with it's usage vs a panhard bar for suspension that has requires a large amount of travel, and that is from reading not doing. Namely they allow for a lot of travel without inducing lateral movement. From the reading I've done on it, outside of a rather extreme performance application, they seem to be very forgiving on the design and location.

Yes, horizontal as in above the diff in line with the drive shaft. Most of my thinking pertains to short course off road and now more to gravel rally.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

This is what I was wondering too. Rubber or harder type bushings are still going to have give. But how much? Or are the bushings metal? I didn't see any mention about bushing material when I looked at the linked site.
Probably no worse than leafs and rubber bushings, and maybe better...

These are my exact thoughts. If you do not have an axle locator, you are going to have side to side movement. Even with leaf springs, there is side to side, however slight.

With a 3 link, you're going to have some movement on the bushings. Now whether or not that matters is above my pay grade.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

These are my exact thoughts. If you do not have an axle locator, you are going to have side to side movement. Even with leaf springs, there is side to side, however slight.

With a 3 link, you're going to have some movement on the bushings. Now whether or not that matters is above my pay grade.

Ok, I actually looked at the kit...

The center link will locate it as long as the bushings hold up. Basically like the front end on the old solid axle Jeep Grand Cherokees (Third link is #32)

On the Jeeps it puts all the stress on that one joint (#40 which I think is oriented in a better direction than Rick's) and many of those have the front axle flopping all over because they are a lot of work to replace.

Between articulation and side loading on a street driven truck I don't see those bushings lasting super long. I almost wonder if it is more of a drag racing setup.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Replace the center link front bushing with a heim joint?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Ok, I actually looked at the kit...

The center link will locate it as long as the bushings hold up. Basically like the front end on the old solid axle Jeep Grand Cherokees (Third link is #32)

On the Jeeps it puts all the stress on that one joint (#40 which I think is oriented in a better direction than Rick's) and many of those have the front axle flopping all over because they are a lot of work to replace.

Between articulation and side loading on a street driven truck I don't see those bushings lasting super long. I almost wonder if it is more of a drag racing setup.

Interesting solution for a Watts link:

MWL 5400 B - Spider Watts Link Center Kit, All 8.8 w/ Finned OE or Aftermarket Cast Aluminum Diff Cover

Part# MWL 5400 B “Spider” Watts Center Section Fits All Years and Models of Ford vehicles with 8.8 Axles Equipped with Cast Aluminum Differential Covers • Can be used with or without GR40 “M” style TorqueArms

www.griggsracing.com

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

The center link will locate it as long as the bushings hold up.

This is my only concern with the kit. I would have one component that the success or failure of the entire system is centered around, and i have almost no information on it.

Why my mind immediately goes to a panhard or watts... seems logical to have something locating the axle, and a watts would work well with that setup. Doesn't seem particularly hard to do, either since Rick has tabs on the center link mounting bracket behind the diff that look simple enough to weld or bolt a watts mount to.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I almost wonder if it is more of a drag racing setup.

I think its more of a "slammed mini truck" setup tbh.

Still. It's an option that's not leaf springs.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Still. It's an option that's not leaf springs.

But is it $800 better?

Is it built with performance in mind or just a way to get airbags on a minitruck that sees 500 miles a year?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

But is it $800 better?

Is it built with performance in mind or just a way to get airbags on a minitruck that sees 500 miles a year?

This is part of why I decided to stick with leaf springs on my Green Ranger. Known quantity. Setting it up like the Explorer, spring under axle, shocks to the rear on both sides by moving the upper mount on the passenger side back, traction bars with the axle mounts relocated for a factory fit, and rear swaybar. I know it works because the Explorer had it. If I need parts, I get the Explorer parts.

Could I go exotic and get better performance? Probably? Maybe? But I was going for budget performance. Maybe someday I’ll build a high performance version. I’m satisfied with what I have for now, or should be happy once I get the rest of the gremlins chased out of it anyway. I should be back to that project next week finally.

 

[Roert42]

Mustang came with an 8.8 coil spring setup. Could be possible to fit one of those in?

Obviously you would need fully home made mounting on the truck side, but you could buy some cheap off the shelf parts that bolt right on the axel.