Restoring a 2004 ranger

[esalman]

Hi,

I've owned my 2004 ranger 2.3L manual transmission since new and it served me well. Rust is becoming a major concern, last week I saw a big chunk of rusted metal under it. I checked under the truck and found that the driver's side rear shackle bracket was totally gone. Rust is spreading across the whole chassis and the bottom of both doors is rusted. Mechanically the truck is solid, It has 150k miles on it and I know I can get another 100k miles from the engine and transmission, but it will fall part because of rust before that.

Since nobody is making a small truck anymore and any mid size truck will cost $20000 to $25000. I'm thinking about doing an off the chassis restoration. Is it worth the hassle or just bite the bullet replace the bracket/shackle and keep driving it until it falls apart? hopefully by then someone will make a small pickup.

 

[wizkid00104]

I did a partial restoration on mine. It was a lot of work, but I love my 2.3L 4x4. We pulled the bed of my neighbors Ranger and cleaned everything up and painted it because he love's his 06 for the same reason.

I can say that you will never get the money back out of your truck or compensation for the time and effort you put in. Depending on how in deoth you get, this can be a very expensive project. As long as you are ok with that, then proceed.

If you have the time, space, and the tools go for it. I'd recommend using Chassis Saver paint from Magnet Paints. Its available at Napa stores (as far as I know). An alternative is POR15. Both chemically adhere to rust. Take your time and do the prep work well. And definitely apply 2 or more coats!

http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_how_to_stop_rust.htm

Magnet paints also makes a very nice bed liner product called Monstaliner. I did my floor pans with it an I am very happy thus far.

http://monstaliner.com/

Another helpful website is http://www.rangerframefix.com/. Ranger Frame fix also makes cross members for the frame, but they are not currently listed on the website. I have spoken to the owner on a few occasions and he is very helpful.

Here are a few photos from mine. Take a look through my build thread for more details.

Monstaliner:










Chassis Saver:

 

[bigmark303]

WizKid, nice Uniroyal Laredos. I miss my set. Second best all terrain tire ive ever had and then they changed the tread pattern.... go figure.

Anyway onto rust. Im going to assume you have more rust here than rot or all rust and no rot yet on the frame itself. Look at it this way everything attached to the frame can be replaced. The frame can not be replaced so that should be your focus.

Ive lived in the good old rust belt for my entire life and its a losing battle no matter how you go about it. Shackles and hangers rotting away they can be replaced, cab mounts, floors or corners rotting away it can all be replaced. the frame rotting away near bolt holes for parts that are bolted on now thats a problem that needs fixing before it starts.

Check the frame over and if its just rusted at this point with no sign of actual rot then get yourself a wire brush or wire wheel and clean that frame of all the rust bubbles. You can leave surface rust itself if its nice and smooth with no flaking. After you clean up the entire frame get some rust converter. I use duplicolor rust converter and spray liberally the entire frame until it turns everything black. After the rust converter has done its job and dried go get some cheap liquid wrench chain lube and undercoat the truck every season.

Ive used por 15 on a lot of things and the results are the same as new factory undercoating. Give it five years and the rust will be back from normal use and especially the road salts if you drive a lot during winter. Ive used the chain lube on every truck ive had new or used and its the best result this far. I also plow in the winter and use the chain lube on my plow trucks while other guys do cab and bed off frame repaints every two years. I have the oldest trucks with the least rot of everyone I plow with.

 

[tmcalavy]

Or you could buy another/similar 2004 from south of the Rust Zone with bad powertrain and do a swap...might be cheaper than rehabing a rust bucket.