Replacing Wheel Bearings

[99RangerKrazy]

Ok so I think I've got my front end noise narrowed to the wheel bearing. I know for certain that it has nothing to do with the brakes, and when the front end is jacked up, there is some play when moving the tire. SO....how should one go about replacing/repacking a wheel bearing? I'm not the most experienced "mechanic" but I think I can do it, but I can get a friend and possibly my Dad to help. I know this is kind of broad, but I couldn't find anything in the "Search" feature. Any help/imput/opinions would be great. Thanks

Do you think I'd be able to do this or is it best left to a shop so I don't screw something else up.

 

[mkpecor]

its a realy easy job, in stead of me telling you exsactly what to do, go to napa and get a hynes manule book for your year of truck $20.00, it will take you step by step, dont take it to a shop, its not hard at all,

 

[blkmazda90]

Nevermind

 

[Hahnsb2]

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't the IFS rangers use unit-bearings?

 

[blkmazda90]

I made a mistake. I didnt even look at his truck specs.

 

[flyingbrick]

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't the IFS rangers use unit-bearings?

I'll put money down that the newer 2wd Rangers do have wheel barrings my 03 does, i think you are right tho 4wds have unit-barrings.... witchcraft if you ask me.

 

[snake]

They may not be bad but only need tightening. I would inspect them tho, remove the wheel and then the brake caliper (two bolts from behind). Then remove the grease cap, by tapping a small screwdriver a little at a time around the outside edge trying not to dent it. Once removed, pull the cotter key out, the metal cover, and big nut that holds the bearing. Next there is a metal plate, you can rock the hub to get it out, then the outer bearing. The bearing should be a little loose, but check for discoloration and damage. There is an inner bearing as well, so slip the rotor off of the hub to access. In order to remove the rear bearing you have to remove the seal. Clean the bearings in gasoline with a toothbrush and then air dry with a compressor to ensure all the gas is out. To repack (new or used) the easiest way is to get a glob of grease on the palm of you hand, put a finger though the bearing, and let the bottom edge nip away at the grease, forcing a bit of it through the bearing until you see some coming through the top. Should take 4 or 5 "nips" until you see that- then rotate the bearing a bit in your finger until you have been all the way around and grease is packed in thoroughly.

Replace the rear bearing and seal (probably going to need a new seal for the back) and slide it back onto the shaft. reinstall the front bearing, metal plate, nut, and begin tightening the nut while rotating the rotor to ensure it isn't binding. Tighten until the rotor begins to be hard to turn, then back off until it is easy again. There is a happy medium here between dragging (bearing too tight) and wobble (bearing too loose) Find that spot and then replace the metal cover and rotate it along (without turning the nut) until holes line up in the spline so the cotter key will go back in, in the position you want. Push the cotter key through and bend it over then replace the grease cap, caliper, wheel, etc. You shouldn't have any wobble with the wheel on, and if you do, adjust it through the wheel as you won't have to remove all the other crap for a simple adjustment.

All this said, I doubt if this is the rattle. But let us know if it was...

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

Guys, he has a 99 4x4. This means he has unit bearings that are not serviceable. All 98+ 4x4 Rangers use wheel bearing hub assemblies. They must be replaced as a unit. It's quite easy, except on the wallet.

Krazy, go to your local store and pick up the unit bearing. Make sure you know whether or not you have 4 wheel or rear wheel ABS. It makes a difference, especially in price.

You have the PVH hubs, which can be a pain. So, remove the wheel, brake caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor. Using a screwdriver, pry up the tabs on the outer hublock while constantly pulling on the hublock. Work your way around until all the tabs are free of the groove on the unit bearing, and it should slide out. If not, PM me because you're in for an absolute nightmare if the whole hublock does not slide out in one piece from the unit bearing.

Using snap ring pliers, take out the inner snap ring. Then, unbolt the seal cover that slides over where the axleshaft enters the knuckle, and then unbolt the three bolts holding the hub assembly onto the knuckle. Installation is the opposite, make SURE the snap ring is in place. You can reuse it.

Also, inspect the wheel seal that is pressed into the steering knuckle. If it looks torn up AT ALL, replace it. It is bad and will leak vacuum and allow crap to build up in the hublocks. It was about $37 dollars at my local Ford dealer.