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replacing rear window


v8nick

Well-Known Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Jul 21, 2009
Messages
126
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
How hard is it to put in a new sliding rear window? Is this something best left to a shop?
 
Vehicle specs (year and cab is the key here) as there are two styles, rubber seal or bolt in. Rubber seal is child's play, the bolt in is not too bad at all.
 
What years have a sliding rear window that will fit a 2000 extended cab? I think it is a bolt-in - I'll have to try to cram myself in there to pull some trim and find out for sure.
 
IIRC 95+ ext-cab, and 98+ reg-cab fits your 2000, either way nightshifter you DO have a bolt-in.
 
I had a shop repplace my rear slider thats a bolt in. they screwed it up 2 different times and in the process pretty much destroyed my headliner. finally was able to get them to fix it and also made them pay for me to get a new headliner.
 
Well I found a shop to do it for $225, soI think I will let them handle it.
 
Well I found a shop to do it for $225, soI think I will let them handle it.

if you can get the old one out... see what they will charge you if the old one is out... it will save them on time, which should lower the labor costs... saving some money here and there all adds up really fast...


i plan on letting a shop put in a new rear slider (or solid pane... i'm so torn on this) but i will ask them if the price is lower if the window is already out. if it is, i will take it out (i have to assume this is the easy part!), and if it's the same price i will let them mess with it..
 
I think I can get the old one out, it is already broken anyway. I am just not sure about putting a new one in and getting it sealed up right. If I knew I could do it right, I found a window for $35 used, I'd grab it right now.
 
Vehicle specs (year and cab is the key here) as there are two styles, rubber seal or bolt in. Rubber seal is child's play, the bolt in is not too bad at all.

The bolt in has to be the biggest POS rear window design ever. I have the bolt in toooooooooooo
 
I'll disagree with you on that I find it MUCH easyer to do a Bolt-in alone then the gasket alone.
 
Only if you don't use the adhesives sealant before bolting it in, my truck has been in some real monsoon like storms and I've not had a drop in the cab, were getting hammered right now as i type this.
 
Yes, holes must most definately be sealed with a true adhesive sealant. It's what the factory does. Either type goes in relatively easy.
 
Well let me start by saying I worked in a glass shop for 5 years and have done many of both style windows. First the rubber style is the easiest to replace just put the rubber around the glass now insert a piece of rope longer that the distance around the glass in the channel that fits around the window opening in the truck. Have a friend hold the glass snug against the opening while you get inside and pull the rope slowly out this will pull the rubber gasket in place. Hole job takes about 15 mins. The bolt in style is a pita to remove you have to remove the trim panels to acess the bolts then the hard part starts. Useing an olfa knofe with new blades you have to cut the ureathane sealant witch is a very hard rubber when set, all the way around the glass once you get going it's not to bad keep the blade lubed up with some soap so it slids easy and keep outward puessure on the glass while cutting. If you push to hard and twist the glass it will explode in your face I'v had it happen so ware safty glases. once it's out putting the new one is easy use the knife to cut the sealant left over down to a level surface than seeing your doing it yourself you don't have the proper chemacals to use so just use some alchahol to clean the truck and the new glass apply the urethane put the glass in and reinstall the bolts, don't overtighten.
 
Fordzda is correct, the rubber seals are piece of cake to install, and just like he said-did mine my self with a 40.00 used slider from junkyard, but I tinted it first.
 

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