Replacing Pcm?

[Blossomforth]

Do i need a dealer to reflash the pcm when its replaced or can i just swap a pcm from the same year/trim? my truck is a '96, 2wd, manual, no security system.

 

[NIPs]

U Dont have to, but if runs funny or something then take to the Ford dealership

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk

 

[RangerSVT]

You can just swap the ecu. I think I have one if you need one. Let me know...

SVT

 

[XLTsplash]

I just replaced a PCM today in a 96 Ranger 3.0L 2wd. Just R&R and your good to go. I had to go with a aftermarket reman. PCM because Ford couldn't get me one.

 

[Blossomforth]

Thats good news. i was hoping i wouldnt need a dealer to get involved if i was just doing a pcm replacement. I think they only need to get involved if you want the latest firmware flashed, or if you have PATS and need to have the new pcm coded to your keys and such.

XLTsplash, what brand of aftermarket pcm did you go with?

Hopefully i dont have to replace the pcm to fix my ongoing emissions related check engine light, but i wont know for sure until my local emissions shop looks at it.

 

[adsm08]

Or you could just leave Commie-fornia. It's probably easier, will save you money in the long run, and it's better for your health.

 

[Blossomforth]

Connecticunt isnt much better. The stupid emissions laws make me want to sell my beloved Ranger and buy an older F100 or C10, just so i dont have to go get it tested anymore.

I cant get it reregistered because a small lightbulb is lit? the emissions system isnt working 100% to spec, yet it passes every other test, including the exhaust probe test. Theres another thread about my problem on here, so i wont get into it on this thread too.

i dont know if i need a new PCM yet, but im prepping incase i need to replace it. Getting prices, sourcing retailers, gathering intel, etc.

I have an idea to test the power to the sensor so i can rule out the possibly of a short in the power wire. I wanted to go to the local parts yard and buy a pigtail for the sensor, then extract the pin from the pigtail, solder it to another length of wire, connect that to a inline fuse, then connect it to the battery via a ring terminal and see if the light goes away. if i use the right fuse, then i can test it without the risk of popping the sensor. good idea or bad idea?