Replacing my ECT (CTS)

[baxtej44]

I have a 1988 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, 2.9L, V6, 84k miles on orig motor


A bit ago I was getting 10.7 mpg.. and it was suggested that I replace my ECT (or CTS), I am gonna try this. So far I think I have located it! Which is a very vital step.... I'm going to confirm this...

on a side note.... my air filter looks ok? i'm not sure how much dirt is too much.

to me, the picture makes it look slightly less dirty (probably because of the flash)... it doesn't look that bad to me besides one spot less than the size of a dollar bill which is kinda brown. also got some debris out of the "container" that the air filter was sitting in

 

[baxtej44]

oh, and not sure if this is in the correct forum.. I kind of hastily made it here.. but feel free to move it mods... and sorry for any inconveinence

 

[Shran]

Yes, that is the ECT.

 

[Fast Fords]

and just rotate the air filter

 

[RumpRanger98]

and just rotate the air filter

why? so the side that has the dirt on it will be on the engine side and therefor get sucked into the motor?

 

[Viva*the*Ranger]

Yeah, I'd replace that air filter man. I replace mine about every 5 to 10k.

 

[baxtej44]

Yes, that is the ECT.

great, now is this a simple part that most auto shops will have? or is this more of a special order item?

I can't really get to it.. and I'm nervous about taking stuff apart, I know to work on the truck when it's cool... but other than that... deathly afraid of it not working again haha.

and just rotate the air filter

why? so the side that has the dirt on it will be on the engine side and therefor get sucked into the motor?

well it's kind of toward the middle (the spot), so I don't really know, should it be more towards the front of the truck or towards the rear?

Yeah, I'd replace that air filter man. I replace mine about every 5 to 10k.

Uh, well... it's only been probably about 2k miles

Okay, and should I spend the money on the most expensive air filter I can get? Or just a basic one? Or mid grade? I assume there are different rankings at the auto shops, like batteries.

 

[Shran]

Any parts store will have it. I got mine at NAPA for about $30. You will need a deep well socket, an extension, and a ratchet. Be prepared to lose a little coolant from where it comes out, and wrap teflon (plumber's) tape around the threads on the new one to seal it.

Your air filter looks fine.

 

[baxtej44]

Any parts store will have it. I got mine at NAPA for about $30. You will need a deep well socket, an extension, and a ratchet. Be prepared to lose a little coolant from where it comes out, and wrap teflon (plumber's) tape around the threads on the new one to seal it.

Your air filter looks fine.

are there any really good, detailed "how to's" on this?

I've been looking, and alot of them are really vague.

 

[kunar]

are there any really good, detailed "how to's" on this?

I've been looking, and alot of them are really vague.

no need for a how-to... its crazy simple.
1. unplug electrical connector
2. unscrew the sensor
3. apply teflon tape to threads onnew sensor
4. replace sensor
5. plug in electrical connector
6. replace any lost coolant

 

[baxtej44]

no need for a how-to... its crazy simple.
1. unplug electrical connector
2. unscrew the sensor
3. apply teflon tape to threads onnew sensor
4. replace sensor
5. plug in electrical connector
6. replace any lost coolant

okay, just to clarify... it's "crazy simple" for YOU guys

step 1 is with my hands..
step 2 is with the socket extension?
step 3 is with my hands (teflon tape is at any hardware store? or should i buy it at the auto store?)
step 4 is with the socket extension too? reverse of step 2, just with the new sensor?
step 5. reverse of step 1
step 6. coolant is the 50/50 mix?







also, would it be worth it to just do a coolant system flush at the time? since I've had it, which has been about a year, I have been bringing it to an auto shop, and they did a pressure check on the coolant system, but no flush.

a flush doesn't seem like it would be that hard, and probably worth it right before summer, correct?

 

[Shran]

lol. Just dive into it man. You will figure it out.

Clean, bright green coolant = no flush.
Dirt, rust, etc in coolant = flush.

 

[Psychopete]

Uh, well... it's only been probably about 2k miles Okay, and should I spend the money on the most expensive air filter I can get? Or just a basic one? Or mid grade?

Looks like that brand is working fine.

FWIW, You may or may not have to unhook stuff to get access to it depending on your tool setup (but I believe they make some sort of socket for this purpose). I usually try to find something else before buying a new speciality tool that I will rarely use. Sometimes it's easier (and quicker) for me to remove something that's right in the way than to try and work around it and get pissed off at it.

Might be a good lesson diagnosing it, you could very well be replacing a good part. When blindly replacing something, keep in mind that it might not change a thing. But diagnosing might end up being more involved than just replacing it.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

Pete

 

[Nhaz]

okay, just to clarify... it's "crazy simple" for YOU guys


step 3 is with my hands (teflon tape is at any hardware store? or should i buy it at the auto store?)

Teflon tape is a Pluming product that can be found is just about any hardware store. its Very easy to use. its white and to use it you literally wrap the threads of the new sensor in it 3 or 4 times around is good.

Go to a home depot or rona depending on where you live or a home hardware. Get the guy to show you how to wrap a thread its really easy once you've seen it done once.

 

[holyford86]

you need a 1" deepwell to get the sensor out