Replacing a 4.0

[Ramonjportilla]

Can anyone help me with the order of things I need to remove,
On my ranger before I pull the engine. No worries I'm having a few friends that
Are more inclined than I am bit any info will help. Thank you!

 

[adsm08]

Remove the trans bell bolts, and the converter nuts if you have an auto, and the starter. Transmission removal is optional, but I prefer to take the trans out completely. Unbolt the exhaust Y-pipe while you are under the truck.

Drain radiator.

Then pop the fuel lines, EVAP lines, brake booster line, remove the air box, fan, radiator hoses, and radiator.

Next unplug any wiring that goes to the body or trans. I like to take the harness out with the engine and have it on the new one before install, but like trans removal this is purely personal preference and not mandatory.

Remove engine mount nuts, and lift engine slowly, looking for anything you didn't unhook.

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Thanks so much adsm08!! My buddy will be helping that is able to do everything. Only problem is he won't be there all the time. Haha

 

[RonD]

Take LOTS of pictures, they are free, and quite handy when reassembling.

I also remove the accessories, i.e. alternator, A/C(can leave lines connected), P/S(can leave lines connected).
I also remove upper intake because it gets in the way of straps or chain for hoist.
And maybe valve covers because strap or chain can bend them.

And just FYI, when you lift the engine up, the truck comes up with it for quite a few inches because the weight of the engine is coming off the suspension.
And this can present an issue if the engine hoist has limited lift travel, so start with hoist as close and tight to engine as practical.
And have floor jack handy in case you need to remove front tires to lower body to clear engine coming out

 

[adsm08]

Ron makes good points. AC and PS can be left with the truck so those systems don't have to be opened up.

Along with pictures, label stuff. Get some masking tape and a sharpie and just label the crap out of things. Even if it's a simple system like two pieces that say "A" or "B" or so on, one on the plug, one on what it plugs into. One guy I work with puts bolts in zip-loc bags with labels the first few times he does a new job, until he remembers where they go on his own

I generally don't remove the intake or valve covers, but I don't lift with chains. I use high-strength (+1200# rated) ratchet straps or seatbelts tied off to the exhaust manifolds. And I always make them in an X pattern over the top of the engine so the load is distributed evenly between the two of them.

If you use ratchet straps don't use the ratchet with them. Loop the end of the strap through the loop on the hook on one side, then tie a good knot at the other end. A ratchet strap tied into a proper square knot will be almost impossible to untie once the weight of the engine is put on it, almost no chance of it coming undone.

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Just curious. A shop buddy told me it would take a shop about 12 hours for labor,
How many days do you think it will take me!? Haha

 

[RonD]

Depends on what tools you have.

12 hour shop time should be to pull old engine and replace it with new one, not just pull it.
If you have air tools it goes alot faster

R&R(remove & replace) complete is closer to 10 hours shop time
Swapping components from old to new add a few hours

Couple of guys should easily get old engine out in 8 hours assuming they have never done this engine or vehicle before

 

[adsm08]

It also depends on working conditions.

At work it would take me about 2 1/2 hours to have a 4.0 out of a 96. Assuming I don't have a bunch of exhaust bolts break.

At home, without a lift, working on my garage floor that might as well be a gravel patch, takes me about 5 hours to have it on the floor.

That's also the difference between having air tools at work, or working with hand tools and an electric 3/8 impact at home.

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Exhaust bolts broke and I had to cut one.. Even with a impact driver.
Any suggestions on things I should replace, while I'm in there. Like the oil pressure gauge, erg valve? Things of that sort.

 

[RonD]

Yes, exhaust bolt heads stripping or bolts breaking are common on any engine

Oil pressure sender and EGR valve are easy to replace with engine installed so wouldn't spend the money on parts like that unless you know they are bad/broken.
Thermostat should be replaced, 192 or 195degF is correct temp to use, with "jiggle valve", that's a small hole in the t-stat plate that allows air to escape when refilling, place hole at 12:00, where air would be , hole has a metal pin in it that "jiggles" hence the name, jiggle valve, lol.

I would replace front and rear main seals(crankshaft), for sure, but that's usually part of a rebuild anyway.

Inspect core plugs(freeze plugs) carefully, any sign of rust or corrosion replace them, they are cheap to replace now, hard to get at later.

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Okay that makes sense! Thanks so much I'm sure I'll be having more questions later. I really appreciate all the wisdom.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

make sure you check the flux capacitor, if its not reading 1.21 jigawatts of electricity, replace it!

 

[Ramonjportilla]

I have a part I need to replace and I sound like an idiot when I call places and look at pictures. I can't find this part.. Please help! And how do I post a picture in here? Lol

 

[Ramonjportilla]

https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fb....10150140981549923.334392.636394922&source=48

 

[Ramonjportilla]

Flux compressor? Like from the delorean? Lol