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Replacement carb


komoto123

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Messages
70
City
Kentucky
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
I am in need of a new carburetor since i can not use my current one due to the duraspark conversion. The tech library only states (''The stock "feedback carburetor" should also be replaced with an earlier non emission controlled 2 BBL carburetor to make this conversion function properly. You can get a 2 BBL carburetor from a Ford 2.8L that had a Duraspark ignition"") I need to know what year/model specific carbs work for the 2.8, as well as how to get the current one off. Specifically these nuts, as i do not know what type of socket to use.

I read in another post about a ford pinto but i don't remember which years. Also if anyone could tell me why i couldn't use the stock carb it would be helpful.
 

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2150 carburetor 1.08 venturi, 287 CFM, used from 1973 through 1983
2150A is the Feedback version, used from mid-1983 to 1986

Earlier 2.8l Ranger or '73-'83 Mustang w/302

Good write up here on rebuilding the 2150: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf

Looks to be external Torx nuts, use vise grips or ?? to remove and replace with regular nuts
A Box end wrench will probably fit as well
 
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I am in need of a new carburetor since i can not use my current one due to the duraspark conversion. The tech library only states (''The stock "feedback carburetor" should also be replaced with an earlier non emission controlled 2 BBL carburetor to make this conversion function properly. You can get a 2 BBL carburetor from a Ford 2.8L that had a Duraspark ignition"") I need to know what year/model specific carbs work for the 2.8, as well as how to get the current one off. Specifically these nuts, as i do not know what type of socket to use.

I read in another post about a ford pinto but i don't remember which years. Also if anyone could tell me why i couldn't use the stock carb it would be helpful.
What is that carb in the pic from any 12 point deep socket will work or a 12 point box wrench. You can use the stock feedback carb that one in the pic is not the feedback carb. Putting a spring on the throttle shaft like that will surely cause problems down the road.
 
Follow the bottom arrow straigh to the side of the float bowl there is a round debossed area with a number in it it should be a 1.08 or smaller to work. If it is put #42 jets into it and get the carb spacer felpro #60529 rebuild the carb and lightly surface the base of the carb. I just glued a piece of 200 grit on a good flat piece of 3/4 inch AC plywood and set a cinderblock to make it nice and flat. You need it right up to the edge to get to the surface next to the throttle lever. just snug it down do not over tighten the new carb gasket you will bend the ears on the carb and create a vacuum leak or worse break off a ear. My concern with that carb is the two springs pulling the throttle closed. Grab the throttle lever after disconnecting the springs and cable and wiggle the shaft if it has alot of play that is a direct vacuum leak and the spring probably close the throttle all the way because it wont do it on its own, That makes that carb useless you will never be able to fine tune it!
 
My concern with that carb is the two springs pulling the throttle closed. Grab the throttle lever after disconnecting the springs and cable and wiggle the shaft if it has alot of play that is a direct vacuum leak and the spring probably close the throttle all the way because it wont do it on its own, That makes that carb useless you will never be able to fine tune it!

thanks. That is just a picture of a similar carb i found online to ask what bolts those were. The carb i have is below.



What is that carb in the pic from any 12 point deep socket will work or a 12 point box wrench. You can use the stock feedback carb that one in the pic is not the feedback carb. Putting a spring on the throttle shaft like that will surely cause problems down the road.

thanks. I am not sure what it is from i just found it online as a reference since they use similar bolts. And i will go and get a set of 12 points since i do not own any. So how do i use the stock carb? I wish i would of known this before i took off the choke levers and tps. My carb is pictured below.



2150 carburetor 1.08 venturi, 287 CFM, used from 1973 through 1983
2150A is the Feedback version, used from mid-1983 to 1986

Earlier 2.8l Ranger or '73-'83 Mustang w/302

Looks to be external Torx nuts, use vise grips or ?? to remove and replace with regular nuts
A Box end wrench will probably fit as well

thanks. I tried a box end and it tried to strip it for some reason. Just regular nuts will do right? no grade 4-8 type stuff?


Also does anyone know what makes the holley 350 an upgrade? I don't know that much about carburetor upgrades. If i am going to be spending $300 i might as well spend if on something better than this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-iuucoZ8vd1l?itemIdentifier=320806_0_0_3498
 

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Yes, just regular nuts with the correct threads.

Holly carb is not "better" than the 2150, the Holly has more changeable parts which is why "racers" like them, they can be adapted to different engine parameters.

For reliable, I would go with the 2150, if you like playing with carbs then the Holly would suit you.

I don't think I would pay $380 for a carb, I would find a used 2150 and rebuild it
 
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