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Reparing a cracked EGR tube


col._kurtz

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jun 22, 2012
Messages
18
City
Southwest Louisiana
Vehicle Year
'99
Transmission
Manual
I have a crack on the EGR tube on my 99 ranger 3.0. Is there any way of possibly welding it closed? If so, would flux core or brazing work best? I found a new replacement on ebay but don't wanna spend money if it can be fixed for free. Thanks for reading.
 
Did it crack from working on it or has it rusted through?

Engine exhaust has a lot of moisture in it so exhaust parts often rust from the inside out.
Reason I mention this is because you need good metal to get a good weld.
Either type of welding would be fine as long as the tube is cleaned and still thick enough.
And it could be thinning out in other spots so check it before wasting time fixing one spot when there are other spots that will open up soon, squeeze it with pliers and poke it with screwdriver if in doubt about an area.

Wrecking yards can be less expensive but they will also have the rusting started.
 
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I second the junkyard idea on that part. Its not critical so if you get one that doesn't work you won't be SOL. And you can take still drive around till you get it replaced.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
I'm pretty sure I did it taking it off when i swapped engines and didn't see it for the insulation sleeve. it is still thick and i didn't see any rust, I had it off a couple of months ago and tried some store bought exhaust repair putty but it didn't seem to work that well.
 
Then you should be fine for doing a patch weld.

Yes, the patch cement is a temp fix, won't last too long.

The cut open Hunt's bean cans and hose clamps worked great on the exhaust pipes, lol.
That was a permanent fix when I was in High School :)
Fruit cocktail cans didn't seem to work as well.........

What ever happened to glasspack mufflers?
 
You can also cut it, flare it, and join it with something else...I replaced mine completely with copper tube parts from the plumbing section...but it should be air tight to ensure the exhaust gases actually make it back to your intake.

Pretty sure it is just 1/2" pipe...but the newer ones may use something else.
 
Thanks for all the advice, most likely gonna get it done on Sunday. Looks like that 1 1/16" tubing wrench I made is gonna come in handy again, makes taking that nut off the exhaust manifold end a lot easier!
 
After pulling the old tube off, it was a bigger crack than I thought. It ran from about 2" from the manifold flange up to right in between the two vacuum lines. It looks like there is a seam there that it followed. I called the local Ford dealer and can get a new one for just under $50, seems like the way to go. Once again, thanks for all the advice.
 
I won't elaborate on the bs that I went through to try to get an EGR tube for my 88 2.0...but it was so frustrating that I went with copper pipe just to satisfy the emission testing requirement...and that was that I had to have one...lol

Anyway, glad you found one that won't cost you too much...:icon_thumby:
 
I won't elaborate on the bs that I went through to try to get an EGR tube for my 88 2.0...but it was so frustrating that I went with copper pipe just to satisfy the emission testing requirement...and that was that I had to have one...lol

Anyway, glad you found one that won't cost you too much...:icon_thumby:

I was considering doing that with mine but couldn't because of the two vacuum lines. I've never had an emission test and could've just plugged it off but I don't want to do that.
 
Don't bother welding it... it won't last.

You should just replace it.

I have had to resort to cutting it in 2 and connecting with hi-temp silicone hose and clamps where parts are not available
 

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