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Renamed: Rebuilding my M5OD-R1 99 Ford Ranger Transmission


True, but lugs can be checked periodically. The inside of the transmission not so much. But that larger nut will have to do with 80-90 ft-lbs, or whatever I can give it with a pipe wrench. My largest crescent wrench is just a but too small to use.

The weather was nice today, and I was able to seal and torque the flywheel bolts, as well as clean and install the new clutch.
20251228_155829.png
Not much left to do under there until the transmission is done. I need to plug the oxygen sensors back in, and run an accessory wire under the truck since there's room right now. I've decided not to replace the oil pan gasket. The amount of work needed for a small amount of seepage is just too much for me right now.

In other news, the transmission is now fully assembled and ready to be reinstalled!20251228_202931.jpg

I searched around the internet for a while, and found that no one can agree on what, if anything, should be done with oxygen sensors and catalytic converters while they're off the vehicle. So I'm putting them back on as is. I've also found that everyone seems to have their own way to bleed the clutch fluid once it's all back together. So that should be interesting.

I don't think I shared this yet, so here's a picture of the inner bearing race that was responsible for all the noise:
20251228_161511.png
 
Wow. Looks kinda like it was roughly sand blasted.

I'd just reinstall. IF you have never changed the front O2 sensors now would be easier than later if you have a problem later. I'd at least make an attempt to break them loose while I had access. If the break loose put some anti-seize on and reinstall if you don't wanna replace them.
 
Curiously, some folks use RTV to glue the gasket to the pan, and some don't use any. Opinions?
I use a thin film of RTV on gaskets that might slide, or if the surface of the part has any kind of scratches that could compromise the seal. I'm not amongst the, "more is better" fans. The rear diff of my truck ('08) looks like a cake with all the RTV bulging out of it.

I keep having to tell myself that is a project for another time.
 
Does anti seize hold up to exhaust temperatures? I had to get the sensors off to reach the bolts for the y pipe. So they're already loose. People use it on spark plugs, so it must have some heat tolerance. Though the exhaust gets hotter than plugs right?

Only problem I had with them is that I couldn't reach the connector on the driver's side to disconnect it from the harness until after the transmission was out. I unplugged it anyway and set them aside so they wouldn't get squashed or something while I was working under the truck.

I've been watching videos on techniques to bleed the clutch. One video suggested that there might be a valve at the end of the master cylinder hose that prevents the fluid from falling out when the hose is disconnected from the slave cylinder. If that's true, then hopefully there isn't any air in that line, and I just need to bleed the slave cylinder like a brake line.

Another video suggested to replace the o ring at the end of the connector. That seems like a good idea. If there is any air in the line, it sounds like it could get trapped around where the pedal pushes on it, and regular bleeding won't get it out. Several folks have used vacuum tools; apparently successfully. I have a vacuum bleed kit somewhere. I'll have to dig it out and try it once the clutch is all hooked up and there's fluid in the slave cylinder.
 
We use this at work:

Copper Anti-Seize

Any parts store should be able to get it. Claims to be good till 1800*. I'll say after 6 months of cooling and reheating to roughly 500* then cranking the heats 750* to help brake things loose it comes out as a powdered lubricant but does work. With it we take thing apart with a 3ft cheater bar. Without it you have to use the 25ton overhead crane to break bolts loose if you don't just break wrenches.

You may see that the Nickel is higher temperature rated. Don't fall for it. That stuff would be better used in place of blue Loctite IMO.
 

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