Removing stock headunit

[FlyingFatass]

I have a 1990 ranger with the old cassette headunit pictured below. I'm going to be replacing with a pioneer HU. I need to know the proper way to remove it. What tools will I need? I also have a new harness that should work with the new HU. I'm going to be running it to two amps (A 2ch and a mono sub amp). Besides having to run the RCA plugs through a splitter, is there anything special I'll need to do as far as wiring (from the HU to the amps) goes?

 

[gettle03FX4LevelII]

you can either go to like best buy or a stereo shop near you and get the for keys to remove it. They are like 10 bucks or you can find an old metal hanger and make your own. You just push them into the two holes on each side making sure all 4 are in at once and you should hear them release. After you feel it release you can simply just slide the head unit out.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

you can take 4 finish nails and inser them into the holes on the sides.


then when you have all 4 nails in or your tool of choice, just push the tools away from eachother to help release the clips.

makes life alot easier

 

[baxtej44]

buy from a store, CAREFULLY unpackage, use it, then return it.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

buy from a store, CAREFULLY unpackage, use it, then return it.

 

[FlyingFatass]

buy from a store, CAREFULLY unpackage, use it, then return it.

I like his idea

 

[Insanejughead]

Or... You could remove the dash panel, unscrew the headunit mounting bracket, and then remove the radio that way.


I think that's what I did to mine... It's been four years. I may have used welding rods to remove it. Just get two of them (no flux coating, of course), bend them into a long horseshoe shape carefully, then stick them in and push apart.

 

[feellnfroggy]

They are called DIN tools. and are very cheap, and once you learn how to install a stereo the tools will help you make money doing it for friends.

 

[FlyingFatass]

I think I might just have to remove the dash anyway so I can do the wiring for the amps. My HU only has one set of RCA outputs. I'm running them through some splitters so i can run one set to the speaker amp and one to the sub amp. I plan on mounting the speaker amp upside-down, under the dash on the passenger side. To get the wiring right, I think I'll have to take off the dash and thread the wires to where the amp will be located. I'll try running the sub's RCA cables through the grey tubing that the original rear speaker wires used, to give it a cleaner look. The sub amp's going to be located behind the driver seat anyway. I'm also eventually going to run carpeting again as well. The rhino liner is easy to clean and all, but without carpeting to dampen the sound, it gets loud in there.

Actually, I've also been considering putting the speaker amp behind the rear seat as well, so less wiring will be showing. The only disadvantage is that I'll have to run the speaker wiring back to the front of the cab so that I can run it through the port at the front of the door. This will require a lot more wiring, but it will give it a cleaner look. Still kind of on the fence as far as which method to use.

Also, the sub box is finished. It's smaller than I hoped, just a 24 x 13 x 6 rectangle, but if it were any bigger, I would have to sacrifice pretty much all of the passengers leg room.

 

[feellnfroggy]

if you only have one set of pre outs you need to know if its a sub out or aux in. if its sub out it wont send you the necessary signal to run highs and mids, and vice versa. I would just use the standard blue purler grey green speaker wires to the amp for the speakers, and use the rca for the sub or if aux in plug in a dvd player audio wire, just in case you ever travel with a dvd.

 

[FlyingFatass]

if you only have one set of pre outs you need to know if its a sub out or aux in. if its sub out it wont send you the necessary signal to run highs and mids, and vice versa. I would just use the standard blue purler grey green speaker wires to the amp for the speakers, and use the rca for the sub or if aux in plug in a dvd player audio wire, just in case you ever travel with a dvd.

I just read through the manual and found out that the RCA is for low level outputs. After a little looking around, it turns out I have all the plugs necessary to run high level output as well. I only have two front speakers and then the sub in the back. I have the wiring for two rear speakers as well. Would I be able to run the tweeters (i bought component speakers) off of the rear input? Or would I be better off just splicing it from the front speakers inputs as they suggest?

Also, for the head unit, which wire in the truck is the ignition wire? It says I need to hook the red HU wire up to it.

Also, rather than hooking the amps directly to the battery, there is what looks like a solenoid right next to the battery. The positive lead goes to this, and several different outputs come from it. I'm assuming that this is the solenoid controlled by the ignition. So if i hook my amps up to this solenoid, it will only give them power when the truck is on, right?

 

[Insanejughead]

That thing next to your battery is the starter relay. You can hook up the amp directly to that post just so long as you make sure everything already hooked up to it has PLENTY of good connection. Oh, and make sure nothing hooked to that stud is liable to be touching anything else and cause a short or spark.

The wire in your truck that is the ignition wire should be the yellow/black wire. It's the one that has 12v+ only when your ignition is in the accessory or run position. A light green/yellow wire should be the one that has 12v+ constant power to it. If you have a voltage tester (lights up when current is present) or a multi-meter, it'll help you figure out most everything you'll need to know about your truck's wiring.

I'm not really knowledgable enough to help you with the tweeter/speaker wire question. Sorry.

 

[FlyingFatass]

That thing next to your battery is the starter relay. You can hook up the amp directly to that post just so long as you make sure everything already hooked up to it has PLENTY of good connection. Oh, and make sure nothing hooked to that stud is liable to be touching anything else and cause a short or spark.

The wire in your truck that is the ignition wire should be the yellow/black wire. It's the one that has 12v+ only when your ignition is in the accessory or run position. A light green/yellow wire should be the one that has 12v+ constant power to it. If you have a voltage tester (lights up when current is present) or a multi-meter, it'll help you figure out most everything you'll need to know about your truck's wiring.

I'm not really knowledgable enough to help you with the tweeter/speaker wire question. Sorry.

Alright, thanks. This is a big help.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

I just read through the manual and found out that the RCA is for low level outputs. After a little looking around, it turns out I have all the plugs necessary to run high level output as well. I only have two front speakers and then the sub in the back. I have the wiring for two rear speakers as well. Would I be able to run the tweeters (i bought component speakers) off of the rear input? Or would I be better off just splicing it from the front speakers inputs as they suggest?

Also, for the head unit, which wire in the truck is the ignition wire? It says I need to hook the red HU wire up to it.

Also, rather than hooking the amps directly to the battery, there is what looks like a solenoid right next to the battery. The positive lead goes to this, and several different outputs come from it. I'm assuming that this is the solenoid controlled by the ignition. So if i hook my amps up to this solenoid, it will only give them power when the truck is on, right?

have a link for the components you bought? they should have a crossover with them

 

[FlyingFatass]

have a link for the components you bought? they should have a crossover with them

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22626_Rockford-Fosgate-PRIME-R1652-S.html

they didn't come with any.