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removing mazda tranny


ncsdaonex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
181
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Manual
sbefore i haved removed the motor and tranny and took the tranny off the motor outside of the truck. now i blew my motor and i am going to swap motors. however i want to try and take the tranny out before removing the motor just so i know how to do it. so how hard is it to do. i remember i couldnt get the tranny crossmember off so can i pull the tranny without taking the tranny crossmember off.
 
It would go a heck of a lot better if that crossmember was taken out. I'm not even sure that you could even remove it with the crossmember installed.

What's the problem with the crossmember? If the bolts are seized, hack them off with a grinder and a cutoff wheel and pound the bolt out. If the bolts are out and the crossmember is still stuck, spray some WD-40 at the rubber bushings and use either a hammer or a crowbar to lodge the crossmember out of the mounts.

If you can get that far, then it's just the matter of putting a jack under the tranny, loosening all the bellhousing bolts(you can reach all of them, I just did this last month), disconnect all the electrical and clutch lines, pump the jack a few times, and pull back on the tranny, it should slide right out with some help of a prybar(not much, though).

It's actually quite easy. Don't do this by yourself, this will go alot smoother with a garage buddy. Things may go wrong(tranny falling on your arm) and it's always nice to have someone there to help you.
 
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It would go a heck of a lot better if that crossmember was taken out. I'm not even sure that you could even remove it with the crossmember installed.

What's the problem with the crossmember? If the bolts are seized, hack them off with a grinder and a cutoff wheel and pound the bolt out. If the bolts are out and the crossmember is still stuck, spray some WD-40 at the rubber bushings and use either a hammer or a crowbar to lodge the crossmember out of the mounts.

If you can get that far, then it's just the matter of putting a jack under the tranny, loosening all the bellhousing bolts(you can reach all of them, I just did this last month), disconnect all the electrical and clutch lines, pump the jack a few times, and pull back on the tranny, it should slide right out with some help of a prybar(not much, though).

It's actually quite easy. Don't do this by yourself, this will go alot smoother with a garage buddy. Things may go wrong(tranny falling on your arm) and it's always nice to have someone there to help you.

okay um the crossmember, i got the nut off the bolt and tried hammering it and it didnt work. so how hard do i have to hit the end of the bolt to get it out. also when the tranny is removed wont the motor drop back or lean real bad? Also, how can i tell if the slave cylinder is bad or if the clutch is bad? The slave cylinder can with a little o ring, i assumed it went over the fitting on the clutch line, but the one on it was fine so i didnt replace it. but i seriously need advice on getting that crossmember out. and can i just use bolts from the hardware store to replace the crossmember bolts?
 
okay um the crossmember, i got the nut off the bolt and tried hammering it and it didnt work. so how hard do i have to hit the end of the bolt to get it out. also when the tranny is removed wont the motor drop back or lean real bad? Also, how can i tell if the slave cylinder is bad or if the clutch is bad? The slave cylinder can with a little o ring, i assumed it went over the fitting on the clutch line, but the one on it was fine so i didnt replace it. but i seriously need advice on getting that crossmember out. and can i just use bolts from the hardware store to replace the crossmember bolts?

One at a time, I'm having a hard time reading your post.

Which bolt are you talking about for the crossmember, the outer bolts where the crossmember is bolted to the frame or the mount from the transmission to the crossmember?

If it's the ones that bolt to the frame rails, the bolt maybe rusted to the inner steel sleeve of the rubber bushing of the crossmember. Try putting penetrating oil around, inside, every space that you can see where the bolt sticks through. And get a good sized hammer and whack the snot out of it. It should come loose sooner or later.
(You're not re-using the bolts anyway, so smack it like you're angry!!)
But make sure the jack is putting pressure on the tranny first, or else when the bolts come loose, things may break.

I just snipped the clutch line on mine. I couldn't get the sleeve off worth nothin. I'm not using the motor or tranny anymore, so it wasn't a big deal.

And, yes, you can use bolts from the hardware store, just make sure that they are Grade 8 bolts.

And, finally, as long your motor is still bolted down to the truck, it shouldn't tilt or lean anywhere.
 
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cross member

hey I have 1994 4.0 manual, I never removed the transmission cross member when I removed the transmission I took off the transfer, then the drive shaft and pulled the transmission back
 
On my 89 4X4 Ranger pulled the A4LD and put in the Mazda trans w/o removing that cross member or manifolds. Trick is to rotate and pry up on trans as you work it back off the engine. Not sure if that would work on the 4 banger.
 
I am digging into my Mazda b2500 this weekend for flywheel replacement.

Any tips tricks for this?
 

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