Regearing/Lockers

[rangersteve]

I have recently lifted my ranger 6" and installed 33" tires. I have realized that my 3.73 gearing isn't low enough and want to regear to 4.56. I figure while I'm regearing I might as well install lockers. I'm not sure what to go with though. Lockers front and rear? Or just rear? I thought I was set on ARB air lockers but recently I have questioned other options. The selectability would be great for the street. Detroit, And have heard plenty good about the no-slip (for much cheaper). This will hopefully be my daily driver and weekend wheeler.

Any suggestions?

 

[metalmacguyver]

well it all depends on your budget and how much street driving vs trail driving you will be doing.

usually selectables are put in up front to make it easier to make tight turns. in the rear, it is not as important.

a simple rear locker would be where i would start if on a budget.

if ya got money, go with selectables front and rear.

about the gearing, with 6 inches of lift, you might end up putting 35" tires on the truck. if you were to do that, you will find youself wishing you had 4.88 gears. there are some people out there that have 4.88 gears with 33's. just a thought.

 

[97BlackBetty]

I would run a locker in the rear. there are plenty of people on here who i have read use it in a daily driver with no complaints, you just have to learn how to drive them and after that its a cak walk. And for the front personally im just gonna lock mine up, if its necessary to make a tight turn on the trail and i cant do it in 2 wheel drive well then work the skinny pedal. On the street just get manual hubs and you have no worries.
Justin

 

[Hahnsb2]

IMHO from what I've seen/read I would go with Detroits over ARBs (when talking about full carrier lockers) for the simple fact you don't have to worry about air lines/air leaks and I already have OBA so it's not the extra cost of the compressor, I just think the more complex something is the more likely it will fawk up. I think the No-Slip would work really well for you too.

 

[Snurfer]

if you've got the 4.0L, 4.56 will work real well for the 33s. id go with 4.88 for 33s if you have the smaller v6.

 

[4x4junkie]

A Detroit up front is not a real good idea, the shockload from a broken axleshaft (or hub) can shear the dog-teeth on it.

Funny as it sounds, a Lockright would be better up front. A Detroit is a fine choice for the rear however.

As for ARBs and worrying about air lines, etc., if you route them properly so they won't get caught on things, come in contact with the exhaust, etc., there wouldn't be much to worry about (plus, an airline failure on an ARB won't be near as big of a handicap as a failed Detroit in most cases anyway).

 

[metalmacguyver]

A Detroit up front is not a real good idea, the shockload from a broken axleshaft (or hub) can shear the dog-teeth on it.

Funny as it sounds, a Lockright would be better up front. A Detroit is a fine choice for the rear however.

As for ARBs and worrying about air lines, etc., if you route them properly so they won't get caught on things, come in contact with the exhaust, etc., there wouldn't be much to worry about (plus, an airline failure on an ARB won't be near as big of a handicap as a failed Detroit in most cases anyway).

on the other hand though, arnt detroits toted as being incredibly robust and failures are almost unheard of?

X2 on the air line thing. the lines stand as much chance of being ripped out as brake lines do.

the increased likely hood of failure of the ARB because of its greater complexity is negated by the awsome convenience of it being a selectable. (IMO)

 

[4x4junkie]

on the other hand though, arnt detroits toted as being incredibly robust and failures are almost unheard of?

Some do say that (and it's generally true up until the point of an axleshaft failure).

On the front though, you have a lot more stored-up inertia in the shafts as they twist than on the rear (mainly due to the extra mass from the u-joints). If the shaft should let go out near the hub, the shaft will unwind itself right into the locker, sending a tremendous shockload through it. Frequently they will survive fine, but quite often, they do not.
The teeth on a Lockright are angled in the opposite way from those of a Detroit, so such a blow is actually better able to glance off them.

An ARB (or an open or L/S carrier) is more or less immune to the effects of a broken shaft/hub however.

 

[du510]

So what are you guys thinking of his gearing choice of 4.56?

 

[whitetrash96]

So what are you guys thinking of his gearing choice of 4.56?

Myself I run 4.88s with tires which are just shy of 33" tall. I wouldn't bother with 4.56 as I've heard some people say "if your gears are too low its time for bigger tires."

 

[metalmacguyver]

Some do say that (and it's generally true up until the point of an axleshaft failure).

On the front though, you have a lot more stored-up inertia in the shafts as they twist than on the rear (mainly due to the extra mass from the u-joints). If the shaft should let go out near the hub, the shaft will unwind itself right into the locker, sending a tremendous shockload through it. Frequently they will survive fine, but quite often, they do not.
The teeth on a Lockright are angled in the opposite way from those of a Detroit, so such a blow is actually better able to glance off them.

An ARB (or an open or L/S carrier) is more or less immune to the effects of a broken shaft/hub however.

ok thanks for explaining that.