Refilling a torque converter....


I did all our automatic transmissions for years. I'd add 4-5 quarts to the empty pan, start the engine and keep adding fluid and checking the level as I went. The pump will fill the convertor, you don't need to do anything special. Make sure the fluid is warm for the final check because it expands as it heats up and overfilling can cause the fluid to contact rotating parts and get foamed up.
 
The Jmod or Jerry’s Mod was put together by one of the designers of the 4R70w from my research and it addresses some potential problems with the transmission. It’s apparently a big deal with the Crown Vic crowd because not only does it address some issues but it also works a bit like a shift kit for better performance
 
The Jmod or Jerry’s Mod was put together by one of the designers of the 4R70w from my research and it addresses some potential problems with the transmission. It’s apparently a big deal with the Crown Vic crowd because not only does it address some issues but it also works a bit like a shift kit for better performance
I'll look into it. It might already be included in the instructions for the shift kit I ordered.
 
I'll look into it. It might already be included in the instructions for the shift kit I ordered.
If you bought a shift kit, you don’t need to do the Jmod.

I did a sort of hybrid with mine where I combined the Jmod with a shift kit, but I don’t know if that was a dumb idea or not yet. Usually people tell you to do one or the other. My truck is still apart so time will tell if it was a bad idea to do both.
 
im wondering now if this is another frickin electrical issue.

It seems to only do it with the AC on. Then this morning as soon as i left for work and took off (ac off) voltage dropped and charge light came on. Shut it off...restarted...it was fine. But with headlights and blower on i noticed the volt gauge twitching with the turn signal.

At idle i can get the gauge to drop real low if i start turning on more stuff. I bet that old PCM that was shorted fried my chinese alternator with the massive fast voltage drops it was causing. The goofy voltage drops stopped after the new PCM
 
If you do drop the pan, go ahead and replace the accumulator pistons while you’re there. They may be leaking, plus it gives you a look at the springs in the process. I can’t remember if it’s 1-2 or 2-3, but one of them tends to break the springs. Nothing to the replacement other than getting the valve body off and having HEALTHY set of snap ring pliers. A bottle jack helps with relieving the tension on the piston while you deal with the snap rings.
 
If you do drop the pan, go ahead and replace the accumulator pistons while you’re there. They may be leaking, plus it gives you a look at the springs in the process. I can’t remember if it’s 1-2 or 2-3, but one of them tends to break the springs. Nothing to the replacement other than getting the valve body off and having HEALTHY set of snap ring pliers. A bottle jack helps with relieving the tension on the piston while you deal with the snap rings.
Oh are you talking about the overdrive servo piston or whatever? The plunger looking one?

Yeah ive read about that, i was going to drop pan this afternoon but i think im gonna look into this electric issue first...and work on the bronco so i can actually dig into this thing. 5 a gallon for gas makes the superduty a bit ridiculious with all the running i do.

On a better note i did all my driving for the week on 50bucks. Vs 80-100 in the truck. The cars gettin 22 which actually even beats the bronco
 
There are a few (3?) of them. I can’t remember where I got my kit because I bought it years ago. The guy that bought my Ranger had some questions recently and mentioned that I’d included some transmission parts with it. We went through the bag and found the pistons, a set of replacement springs for whichever tends to break them, all three solenoids, etc. I gave him a hand swapping it all out last week.
 

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