Alright, time for an update. We took the Fordzuki and the Rearanger out to Elbe, along with 2 other Rangers, and 2 other zuks, and had a great day. Casualties of the day included a bashed in bedside and a bent up tranny crossmember on my dads ranger, but all in all, it did great. I'm glad I welded up the rearend, it helped him out quite a bit. The bedside was an easy fix, just stuffed a 2x4 up there and got it out enough, but the crossmember was another story. The driverside was bent back a good 2 inches, and the passenger side was back a tad too. It was the dreaded dogbone style, with the bushings on the outside of the frame, which I knew we were going to have to upgrade, I just didn't know it would be this soon. We weren't into the first trail maybe 50 feet when the ranger crashed down onto a big rock, and somehow blew the fuse to the fuel pump. I tried reseting the inertia switch, but it didn't help, so that's when I pulled the fuse, and it was blown. So a new fuse went in, started it up and drove up off the rock to find the crossmember ears on the frame bent back pretty good. We lucked out, and it didn't break the trans mount, and wasn't making any funny noises, so we kept on through 3 more trails.
The only pic I got of it out on the trail.
So after the day was done, we got home, and a couple days later, I started in on what I thought was going to be a routine swap to a 2wd crossmember from the donor truck that got sacrificed to make Fordzuki. Well, the crossmember had other things in mind, and I soon found that becasue it was a 2wd crossmember, it didn't have clearance for the front driveshaft. So I made up a new crossmember out of 2x4 rectangle tube, and a section of another crossmember I had drug home from work.
I originally planned to make it tuck up into the framerails, for a flatter bottom, but would have had to notch for the cat and the front driveshaft, as well as make a 1 inch recess for the trans mount, plus with the trans crossmember up out of the way, the first thing to hit would be the transfercase skid and transfercase, so this will help to keep the brunt of an impact off of those.
Being tube, it should slide over rocks easier than the hat channel original, and it's a bit thicker at .190 wall. It basically bolts to the bottom of the framerails, with a 1 inch tall by 5 inch wide section of an old crossmember welded to the top, and holes plasma'd out to get a socket up to the trans mount bolts. Simple yet strong, and no more outer bushings to worry about.