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Rear Ranger frame compatability


woodermizer

New Member
Joined
May 21, 2017
Messages
3
City
SE PA
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
Hi all, had a question about rear Ranger frames from the late 90's.

I'd picked up a 99 XLT a few years back knowing that the rear was going to need some help, just didn't imagine I'd end up having to pull the whole thing. The plan is to grind off the rivets holding the rear end on and replace with Grade 8 hardware.

My question is regarding how compatible the frames from a certain different year are with another. I'd read that the leaf spring shackle holes changed around '05, but I'm wondering if the rest a little bit more arbitrary (wire clips, etc.)

For reference, I've got a 99 4x4 XLT. Guy at the salvage yard brought up a refernce checker and the frame I'm looking at would fit a 99 4x2 XLT, etc...

If I'm only going to be replacing the rear end do you suppose any of that (4x4 vs. 4x2) is going to affect use? Both are 126" wb.

Thanks for any input
 
Hey, woodermizer. I know this isn’t the answer you’re looking for, but they do make frame kits for the rear part of the frame that rots out. My brother also bought a ’99 Ranger last winter; three months later, the rear of the frame broke off while he was towing a tiny light weight trailer. The previous owner almost definitely knew that it was going, but said nothing.

My bro's plan was to fabricate an entire rear frame from stock steel, when I mentioned to him that I had heard that kits were available. He bought one, cut out the rot, and welded the new kit in. It was still work, but he later told me that he was so happy I mentioned it to him, because it made the job way easier. Just a thought.

PS - does “woodermizer” refer to Woodmizer bandsaw mills?
 
Last edited:
Dorman makes frame repair parts also
 
Yeah, I'd welded together a temp repair section myself and shackled it in. The issue popped up in a few places however and it seems beyond piecemeal repair at this point considering the overall state of the frame. Things were also getting veeery thin in sections due to rust.

@ rangerenthusiast, it is the woodmizer saw! You do any milling yourself? People around here also say water like 'wooder'. Little joke for myself... :icon_rofl:
 
Were you located?? we used to build Wooden Boats so long pieces of wood we're always in high demand, we spent quite a bit of time at sawmills!
 
Yeah, I'd welded together a temp repair section myself and shackled it in. The issue popped up in a few places however and it seems beyond piecemeal repair at this point considering the overall state of the frame. Things were also getting veeery thin in sections due to rust.

@ rangerenthusiast, it is the woodmizer saw! You do any milling yourself? People around here also say water like 'wooder'. Little joke for myself... :icon_rofl:

Ha, that’s great. So you’re the “water mizer” then? :icon_rofl:

Yeah, my father’s had a WoodMizer setup for about 25 years or so now. He finally put a second engine on it a year or two ago. Helped him in the mill quite a few times doing custom saw work and got to see some really interesting lumber pass through over the years. Everything from pine, oak, ash, and cherry to more exotics like black walnut, cedar, osage orange, Kentucky coffee tree, curly maple, etc. They’re really an amazing little machine. :icon_thumby:
 
The rails themselves should be the same. Some of the bracketry might be different between 4x4 and 4x2. Nothing that you can't swap out or otherwise deal with.

Grade 5 bolts are acceptable for frame repair. So 100% use grade 8 bolts with stover lock nuts.

When I did mine two years ago I used all grade 8 1/2 bolts with stover lock nuts, and then painted them in once it was together. Nothing has even tried to back out yet. I did have to drill all of my holes out a little, but the next smaller bolts were too small, and the only material I removed was to make room for the threads of the bolts.
 
I replaced the rear half of my frame on my 2000 4x4 last year. Donor was from an unknown year 2wd. Had to ream some holes out for the 1/2” grade 8 and I used locktite in addition to lock nuts. Rear section is the same for all 6’ beds. Front section is more specific.


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet
 
I replaced the rear half of my frame on my 2000 4x4 last year. Donor was from an unknown year 2wd. Had to ream some holes out for the 1/2” grade 8 and I used locktite in addition to lock nuts. Rear section is the same for all 6’ beds. Front section is more specific.


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet

Man, I love your avatar (or profile pic or whatever). Love that your messages are sent via trebuchet, by way of kite. And LOVE the quote regarding management. Obviously, you sir are a philosopher of the first order. :icon_thumby:
 
Man, I love your avatar (or profile pic or whatever). Love that your messages are sent via trebuchet, by way of kite. And LOVE the quote regarding management. Obviously, you sir are a philosopher of the first order. :icon_thumby:



Lol, just doing what I can with what I got. There’s a movie quote there in case you’re wondering.

Don’t know that anyone has called be a philosopher before, much less of the first order, yet I suppose it fits. Thank you kind sir!


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet
 

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